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DC Foglight Mod without DRL solved!!

Allright guys, I figured it out. Here is the way to mod your foglight wiring so it all works when YOU want it to. Example: Parking lights, foglight switch WORKS. Low beams, foglight switch WORKS. High beams, foglight switch WORKS. Leave lights on, turn off the key and open the doors, EVERYTHING turns off.

I did this on my 05 DC WITHOUT DRL; it might work on the DC with DRL too, but I am not sure. This mod is for DC without DRL.

I was very close the last time I attempted this, but I was not aware of one thing. The combo stalk switch where the foglight switch resides would stop the foglight switch ground if the low beams are not on so you have to change the foglight switch ground for the stalk AND you have to change the power to the foglight relay behind the fuse panel.

Here's how to do it. The first step is to get to the combo switch wiring on the column. Here is a mod post you can follow for the column portion of this mod http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/garage/membermod/2003tundrafoglightmodhowto.htm . This combo switch portion of the mod will work exactly as Rizico describes it BUT the mod for the relay is entirely different. I used his link because he has good pictures of this part. If you follow his instructions, stop after step 10 and come back here. From his step 10 on, this mod is entirely different.

In case you can't follow his mod link I will describe the first step in this mod. If you have done this part, move down to my step two portion.

Step One.

First, take out the phillips head screw on the bottom side of the column. The turn your steering wheel 45% and you will see a screw facing you either to the left or the right of the wheel. Take out the first screw then turn the wheel 180% and you will see the screw on the other side. Take it out then remove the lower portion of the column cover. Be careful and don't pry on it. It's kind of tricky, buy it will come off with a little squeezing. You will see the wiring and plug going to the combo switch. You are looking for the Green wire with a black stripe and also the larger gauge white wire with the black stripe. You are going to cut the green wire with the black strip about 2 or 3 inches from the plug. Now cap off or tape off the end running back under the column. Rizico used a tap connector at this point, but I chose to solder ... either is fine I'm sure but I soldered because the green/black wire is pretty small gauge and the white/black is much bigger. Keep in mind DON'T cut your white wire with black stripe, you are just splicing in the green/black to it. What you just did was give the Green/black constant ground instead of only having ground with the low beams on. After you have taped up your work, you can button up the column part of this mod and put it all back together.

Step Two.

This is a little more work but really isn't that bad. First, take out the four 10 mm bolts holding the panel under the column. If you followed Rizicos first ten steps, then this next part is already done. Carefully pull it toward you and it will come loose. Next unhook the wiring connector (if you have one) to the low pressure tire reset switch about midway across the panel. Next, take out the two screws holding in the hood latch and slide the latch out of the panel. Set the panel aside out of your way.

Next you will see the AC duct work that runs under the column. Push it to the right (pass side) then the left will drop down, pull it to the left and remove and also set aside. Now you need to remove the small duct piece the runs up to your left vent. Get ahold of the small panel that has your interior light dimmer in it and pull it toward you. It should just snap right out. You can just let it hang so you don't have to disconnect the wiring plugs. You need to do this to get to the top bolt of the fuse panel and to get the duct out. Next, there is a screw that holds the small duct to the dash from underneath. You need a stubby phillips to get this one. Work the duct back and then down and remove it out of the way.

Now you will be able to see the 10mm nut an top of the fuse panel and the 10mm on the bottom. Remove them both then get ahold of the fuse panel pull the top out first getting it off of the stud, lift it slightly and work it out turning it to the right. Now you won't be able to turn it all the way around but you will be able to see and get to the wire you need. The wire you need is yellow with the red stripe. I know I know, there are four of them! The one you want is the small one (that narrows it down to two, LOL). It is the small yellow wire with the red stripe that is in the right hand plug as you look at the BACK of the fuse panel. To further explain, it is the bottom left wire in the right hand plug about midway up the panel. The WRONG small yellow/red wire is in the plug just to the left of it again, looking at it from the back. Cut the wire about three inches back from the plug. If you need to make sure I'm guiding you right or you are not sure of my explaination, try your foglights now and they should NOT be working at all if you cut the right wire.

Now cap off or tape the wire leading back under the dash as you no longer use this. Strip back your newly cut yellow with red wire leading into the plug on the fuse panel and use a small (red) butt connector and connect a new wire about a foot in length of equal or larger gauge wire. You are going to run this wire up to the panel with the dash light dimmer switch in it that is right above where you are working. Just keep this new wire running behind and up to the dimmer, The wire you will now tap into is the green wire with silver spots on it that is plugged into the back of the rotary dashlight dimmer switch. This is the switch on power wire for the dashlights. Do not worry about more draw on this wire as the wire you are connecting to it is only a low power draw signal wire for the foglight relay. Here again I soldered and taped instead of using a tap connector, but that's just me. Now, test you lights!! You foglights should work as I described at the start of this post. If so, the it's just time to reverse all of your disassembly.

Put it all back in the reverse order, put away the few tools you used and VIOLA, we have the DC foglights working the way we WANT them to. I hope this went as smooth for you as it did for me. I know in an earlier post I said not to attempt this mod, but with these instructions, you should only need to cut two wires unlike what I went through to figure this out.

To explain what Toyota did to make this so hard to figure out was.

1. They made the foglight switch get grounded to complete the circuit only if the low beams are on.

2. They made the power to the relay hot only if the low beams are on.

In this mod we bypassed BOTH of those circuits and made our foglights work like they should have in the first place!

Cheers!! :D
 

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Re: DC Foglight Mod without DRL solved!!

I know this is a pretty old thread but has anyone figured out an easier/better way to accomplish this?
 

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Do the fogs turn off when you turn your brights on with this mod? I'd like to do this but In order to pass inspection here the fogs have to turn off when the brights turn on.
 

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Do the fogs turn off when you turn your brights on with this mod? I'd like to do this but In order to pass inspection here the fogs have to turn off when the brights turn on.

Yes and No. They still turn off with the switch but, will stay on whenever you click on the high beams. Just don't turn your fog lights off and tell the inspector they're broken. Better yet take the fuse out before you go to the inspection and just replace it when you get home.
 

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Yes and No. They still turn off with the switch but, will stay on whenever you click on the high beams. Just don't turn your fog lights off and tell the inspector they're broken. Better yet take the fuse out before you go to the inspection and just replace it when you get home.
Yeah but it will fail inspection if the fogs don't work either lol. I've had friends failed because they have off road lights and one didn't work, so even though its illegal to use them on a public road if one doesn't work they'll fail you. Apparently if you have a light on your vehicle it has to work. Virginia is weird.
 

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Hummm, I just bought a DC '04 today and noticed that there wasn't a fog light switch so guess it doesn't have fog lights. So I'll have to check it out further tomorrow or in the near future.
 

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Fail again :( The above link I posted does not work for my truck.

Tye
I just tried it too man, you ever get anything to work?
 
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