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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

Ever since I've owned my tundra, I have done all the maintenance work on it (Fuel Filter,Engine/Tranny Oil, Brakes, Spark Plugs, etc...) and now it is time for the timing belt/water pump to be changed.

Based on your experiences with it, how does the difficulty level of changing the water pump/timing belt compare to changing brakes or spark plugs? I was reading Haynes and it seems like a puzzle; not exactly hard but just a lot of steps.

I can save about $300-$400 if I do it myself.

Thanks
 

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It is a fair amount of parts. Easy to do physically though. Nothing hard to get at, no sharp corners. Getting the belt lined up
has confused a few here for a short time but they got it sorted out.
 

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I was reading Haynes and it seems like a puzzle; not exactly hard but just a lot of steps.

I can save about $300-$400 if I do it myself.

Thanks
I would say a puzzle is an accurate description. I covered a table in brown craft paper and as I took each part off, I put the nuts/bolts in a group and circled them and labeled with a marker. Organization is crucial...

The only part I got mixed up on, which I caught before attempting to rotate the engine was the marks on the new timing belt. Left means driver side!!! Not left as you're looking at it.

RockAuto Auto Parts has the Aisin timing belt and water pump kit for like $260ish. google search rockauto discout code for a 5% coupon...

And I found the crank pulley holder very usefull. You can always buy one and sell it for almost as much as you paid for it.
 

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I just did mine a couple of weeks ago. I put the bolts and nuts in plastic baggies and labeled baggie for where they go. Take pics of bracket and pulleys along the way.

The t-belt, well make sure everything is tdc, and make sure the marks on the cam pulleys are spot on, and when I went to put the pass. side t-belt on the pass. pulley, I had to rotate the pulley while sliding the belt on, but all marks were where they were supposed to be.

The wiring for the cam on the drivers side must be put on at a certain time or else you will be using angled screw driver to put it on.

If you take your time, and label everything, take pics, and ask for help here, you can do it.

Just make sure everything is TDC. I put the housing that has the timing marks on and put the crank pulley on just to make sure it was TDC before taking t-belt off, and putting it on.
 

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As with any big, complex job, break it into small, simple pieces, then do each piece, one piece at a time. That is my approach to most anything, and this job was quite easy when done that way. It took me about ten hours, but I'm retired, so I had no need to hurry. I followed the simple maxim, "It's better to get it right than to get it right now."
 

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I've wrenched on cars for years. I'm an old timer. In this case I let the dealer do it a few months ago. Too much detail for me.
And there are a few things that not done right will not even let your truck start.

My 2 cents.

George60
Galt CA
 

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hard? no. just a BUNCH of steps and if not done correctly, you will need to remove everything again. for example, to remove the drive belt tensioner, the alternator needs to come off. for the alternator to come off the power steering pump needs to come off. lots of steps that needs to be installed in the proper order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the advice people. I bought the entire kit on Ebay and will start it when my four day weekend comes.

For my tool list, I have wide range of mm sockets, breaker bar, impact wrench, harmonic balancer puller, and pulley holding tool as well as screwdrivers.

Anything other tools critical or really helpful?

Do you recommend replacing anything else besides the water pump and belt since I am taking out pretty much the front side of the engine compartment?

thanks
 

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If this is the first T Belt change at 10 years i would change both idler pulleys and not take a chance in them going another 10 years! They make loud continous squealing noise when they have lost their lubrication and it's basically not noticed until you have changed a bad one as to how much squealing they can do! You can look at the back of them to see if they are stained with old lubrication but myself would R&R and not look back! Good luck!! Lotta good info above!:tu:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Is a torque wrench necessary? I was doing some research on other forums and people were concerned with torque values for idler pulley and timing belt tensioner bolts.
 

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I use them on about everything that is internal, water pump bolts , tensioners etc... Oddly enough I am quite comfortable using
an impact wrench on the crank pulley bolt. If you question your skill set or experience, better to err on the side of using one.
 

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If you are going to do DIY maintenance of any type you will need 3 torque wrenches, 1/2", 3/8", & 1/4" drive torque wrenches and most applications call for a torque value for a reason and not having these wrenches would be a big mistake. 1 overtorqued bolt that spins on you will drive home the importance of using a torque wrench! Sears has them on sale on occasion! Torque sequence also is of importance when tightening things such as the water pump!
 

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Is a torque wrench necessary? I was doing some research on other forums and people were concerned with torque values for idler pulley and timing belt tensioner bolts.
Only if you want to do the job once!
 

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I just finished my timing belt job. I would rate it as very difficult. I think a better repair manual than Haines would have helped. It told me to take off bunches of stuff that didn;t need to come off. Crank pulley required an impact gun, off and on. Torque wrenches are an absolute necessity, you will need down to 156 in. pounds (13 foot pounds).

Allow extra time and be super careful taking off the water inlet housing that sits above the water pump. It has a tube and O ring pushed into another aluminum part, I broke mine and am now back another $100.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If this is the first T Belt change at 10 years i would change both idler pulleys and not take a chance in them going another 10 years! They make loud continous squealing noise when they have lost their lubrication and it's basically not noticed until you have changed a bad one as to how much squealing they can do! You can look at the back of them to see if they are stained with old lubrication but myself would R&R and not look back! Good luck!! Lotta good info above!:tu:
Thanks for the advice. Do you or anybody else have a part number for the idler pulleys? Haynes doesn't really dive into this part.
 

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No, torque wrench is not necessary but it would make the job faster. One of the best technicians at our dealership doesn't touch the engine with an impact wrench, but lots of other good ones use the impacts on literally everything. As far as timing belt goes, I'd be way to worried about ruining more than one component of the disinstallment. Oh and plan for mistakes. You will most likely have some stripped bolts, and you may need to replace the two idler pulleys, so I'd do it sometime where using the truck isn't urgent. Doing it yourself will save you about $800 were you to get the parts and labor at my dealership.. but there's a reason they get paid to do a pretty critical operation of removing/replacing the timing belt. Most of the techs call it a "gravy job" because it pays out the @$$ and they claim they don't have to think about what they are doing because its a straightforward operation. They can sit there and put on a v6 timing belt in and hour and a half and a v8 one in 2 and a half, but I know I couldn't do it even if given all the tools and time. It's up to you, but I'd definitely plan a couple days and take it very slow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok well I actually started doing this today. I did not get as far as I would have liked. I went to remove the fan bracket and there are 2 bolts from the A/C mount that hook into the fan bracket. I looked at my wrench set and I have all sizes except the one I need, 14mm and not enough clearance for a socket. Decided to quit for the day and will run to Home Depot tomorrow.

All in all, not hard so far. The fan to water pump mounting bolts gave me a fun time because the whole thing moved left when I tried to turn the bolts. Some Pb Plaster and a hammer took care of that. Invested time so far is 2 hours.

I want to be done completely tomorrow and leave Friday for the reassembly. Will post again soon.
 

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If you are working on import cars these days, you'll need 10, 12, 14, 17 and 19mm wrenches and sockets (short, deepwell and 1/2" drive) for 95% of the vehicle. 10, 12 & 14 mm ratcheting wrenches help a lot!!!
 
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