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Discussion Starter #1
So i had CEL with said Bank 2 sensor 1 out(pass side 1st sensor). Got new Denso from Rockauto. Went to install it and f**** up. Used PB blaster for half day, warmed up for a minute, took O2 sensor socket and managed to turn it -1/4 turn, then +1/4, turned it forth and back dozen times but it would only move that 1/4 and not more. So after 49 minutes i pulled out sawzall and cut the back off O2 sensor so i could use deep 7/8 socket as special slotted socket was slipping. Once i got deep 7/8 on with 16" bar it came out but i what i saw was destroyed threads. And no i didnt just backed it out - i went in and out but that didn help apparently. It wasn't rusted in - metal was like fused/welded together and metal on O2 sensor gave way. Now i have these left over pieces wedged in the O2 sensor "socket" threads on the exhaust pipe. Couldn't find tap/die set in Homeless depot/Lowes of that size. My temporary fix is 1/2 bolt in the hole and some aluminum flashing and 2 steel ring clamps holding it. Got to go to work 3am tomorrow hope the temporary fix will hold.

Am i looking at header removal to fix the threads? (seems to me, so already sprayed header nuts with PB)
P.S. bank 1 sensor 1 looks fairly new with new label on the wires so that was changed not too long ago.
P.P.S threads on the pipe dont look so bad as on the sensor - only top row is partially filled with fused metal from destroyed sensor threads, so new one doesn't catch the threads to start going in and its a biatch to access :(
 

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ouch man... best of luck
 

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Home depot wouldnt carry the proper thread kit anyways.

I say you call up the parts store and see if they have some kinda fix for this-otherwise got 2 real options.

1. Take it apart and weld a good section in from another pipe
2. Weld the new one on somehow.
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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It's going to cost you a bundle to get any sort of "fix" worked and you'll have to remove the exhaust manifolds anyway to get to it. At this point, don't screw around. The damage is done. Bite the bullet and get a set of JBA or Doug Thorley headers and call it a day.
 

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Home Depot is useless. Identify the threads and get a tap here

www.mcmaster.com


I don't think this is the first, as my dealer warned me that my manifold could be stripped removing the sensor on my '01. Fortunately it was not.
 

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I had the same situation, the sensor seized in the manifold. I ended up
with a new sensor...and new manifold. I agree with Remmy, while you're
already spending the money, upgrade the manifold. Good luck.

John
 

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I agree with these guys 100%.

You might find the proper tap at an Ace Hardware...they're a franchise, and most I've been in have stocked the good stuff. Otherwise...McMaster Carr, or try around your local area for a machine shop supplier, they will certainly have the tap, or can order it.

But...I would just get a set of headers, and put a dab of high-temp anti-seize on the threads of the new O2 sensor. Toyota doesn't use lube on their sticker prices, and they don't use it on their parts either, so things like this (and your alignment cams) are pretty much guaranteed to rust solid without early intervention from the buyer.

If you were closer, I'd bring over the 14mm wrenches for a beer, yup :D.

-Sean
 

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I had the same problem and managed to "fix" the threads with a metric tap ( can't remember the size ).

You don't need new manifolds in case your threads cannot be repaired, Any good muffler shop can weld the hole shut and drill a new hole near it, weld a new bung and simply thread the new 02 sensor in. In the worse case, you may have to cut and add a few inches of wires so you can connect the new 02 sensor to the existing plug.

I have done that several times on different cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok little update. For anyone wondering - threads are M18x1.5
Thread repair tap (doesnt work drilled holes as it is not a real tap, more a thread cleaner) is $7 on amazon and allover the net. Homeless depot/Lowes and auto parts stores are useless - nothing there. I went to Monroe mufflers and imagine that - f****ng place DO NOT have that "bunk" (thats how the guys called the piece that O2 sensor screws into) so if they stripped one would be f****d totally. Anyway i gave the guy $5 and he pulled old piece of exhaust pipe with O2 sensor "bunk" from trash. $5 beats new header price :) saturday/sunday i will source the old one from the pipe and weld it into my header.
No way to tap on the truck because of weird angles and difficult access. Out of the truck i'd tap it in no time, but need to buy tap then(~10-20$) - screw that i'll just cut the bad one out and will MIG weld the other good one at my buddy on weekend. Spraying PB blaster till weekend and praying that the manifold would come off.

P.S. i need new gasket between manifold/block right?
No money for the JBA headers. Got to put food on the table first. In 07 would have bought JBA and TRD SC, but not these days :(
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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I'd have a real hard time bolting those old manifolds back on after all the work getting them off just to weld a patch. I understand about the $$$ though.

Good luck.
 

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How about trying a Helicoil?
Heli-Coil, Helicoil, Helicoil Insert, Helicoil Tap, Helicoil Inserts, Helicoil Gauge, Helicoil Kit, Helicoils, Emhart Helicoil, Bollhoff Helicoil, Helicoil Plus, Armacoil, Armstrong Helicoil

Guys use these all the time when they strip the drain bolt on their motorcycle. Instead of buying new cases, just use a helicoil. I think someone on here a while back was planning to use one on a spark plug hole that he had stripped. That said, I haven't use them myself, but have heard nothing but good things about them from many different people.

/Mike
 

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Is the tap a pipe thread or straight?

I agree with Boosted up there, get a new bung welded in place and seal up that old one.

We use helicoil cutters on our office mill at work all the time. MSC sells them.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The only problem with helicoil is you have to have the manifold of the truck anyways to install it as access on tundra is a biatch and i have O2 sensor metal wedged in bung threads and no easy way of cleaning them. If it was like the rear sensor i could just re thread it but this one is biatch to access so i highly doubt it i could get tap straith in without cross threading. So in this case its easier to weld new bung on :confused: maybe do it on the truck:confused: again really bad access. But i have done operation like that on my 99 maxima(same problem - O2 sensor died at 170K and didnt came out) so i took header off, cut the sucker of + new bung and back into the car. I did twisted all the exhaust pipe bolts off(by the cat) so i drilled and put new studs in.

P.S. Any other place to get new bung besides sourcing from old manifold? Nobody seems to have them locally. Will try tomorrow again in couple more shops local automotive stores don't have them. Will get to it only on weekend and MIG buddy is only then available. For now spraying PB and praying for manifold nuts to come off.
 

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If you get stuck, I have a set of take-off manifolds. I believe the set is in good condition. The last time I looked at them was a couple years ago. PM me if you need them.
 

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boosted and tundradrenalin got it down. make sure when you weld a new bung on that it is in at least a 3 or 9 o'clock position at the least. preferably more like a 2 or 10 o'clock position. standard procedure when adding a bung for a wideband. this will keep moisture from accumulating in the new bung and you won't have a repeat performance down the road.
 

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The only problem with helicoil is you have to have the manifold of the truck anyways to install it as access on tundra is a biatch and i have O2 sensor metal wedged in bung threads and no easy way of cleaning them. If it was like the rear sensor i could just re thread it but this one is biatch to access so i highly doubt it i could get tap straith in without cross threading. So in this case its easier to weld new bung on :confused: maybe do it on the truck:confused: again really bad access. But i have done operation like that on my 99 maxima(same problem - O2 sensor died at 170K and didnt came out) so i took header off, cut the sucker of + new bung and back into the car. I did twisted all the exhaust pipe bolts off(by the cat) so i drilled and put new studs in.

P.S. Any other place to get new bung besides sourcing from old manifold? Nobody seems to have them locally. Will try tomorrow again in couple more shops local automotive stores don't have them. Will get to it only on weekend and MIG buddy is only then available. For now spraying PB and praying for manifold nuts to come off.
URD used to sell O2 sensor bungs. The main purpose was for an access point to insert your wideband sensor while tuning your AFRs.



Here's the link: Underdog Racing Development

Give them a call or email, ask if they still have some in stock. You just need 1 right? Gadget is typically pretty quick to answer his emails.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
all URD have is some sort of O2 bung extender - $89 :eek:
I'm sticking with either old one from the other exhaust or simple M18x1.5 nut. For now its all for the weekend. BTW i got tap/die kit on Harbor Freight tools for $90 its the only one that has M18x1.5
Thanks for the ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I fixed it and truck runs fine now:amen: Ran thread tap M18x1.5 and from third time managed to run in and all the way trough. Installed new DENSO sensor and everything is fine. One thing off my list. Thanks everybody for ideas and help.
 

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Thankfully it worked.

I know at the shop I woulda probably cut out the section and welded in a new section or just filled the old bung and put a new one in. Still a pain
 
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