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She’s off the jack stands. My fix for the broken shift selector shaft end that broke off was the above described drilling, wire, and JB weld. I like the look of it and it’s holding after lots of test shifts so we’ll see.

My problem was really the neutral switch. I’m a mechanical engineer who started my career in the powertrain department at Western Star Trucks in Kelowna, BC. Good times. Anyway, I can’t figure out some of the design decisions. People love to poke fun at the dumb designs engineers come up with and I get it, but often there is an unapparent reason for why something has to be that way. Sometimes not. Does anyone know why the shift selector shaft must protrude through the neutral switch entirely? And assuming there’s a reason for that, why would they not have a normal type of shaft seal on the switch instead of this odd aluminum cast, split threaded post with a round nut with low torque around that shaft, just inviting crud in there to bind things up and fuse things together. My neighbour’s Tacoma has the same issue.

I could not remove my neutral switch. In fact, while watching the switch and changing gears, the shaft, threads, nut and the funny washer all turned as one. So the shaft had fused to the threaded part and broke it free from the switch. Switch still works. I broke one quarter of the threaded shaft trying to free it, but in the end, not wanting to fix something that is working, I simply put the nut on with next to no torque and covered the whole mess with grease. So far so good. Here’s some pics.
She’s off the jack stands. My fix for the broken shift selector shaft end that broke off was the above described drilling, wire, and JB weld. I like the look of it and it’s holding after lots of test shifts so we’ll see.

My problem was really the neutral switch. I’m a mechanical engineer who started my career in the powertrain department at Western Star Trucks in Kelowna, BC. Good times. Anyway, I can’t figure out some of the design decisions. People love to poke fun at the dumb designs engineers come up with and I get it, but often there is an unapparent reason for why something has to be that way. Sometimes not. Does anyone know why the shift selector shaft must protrude through the neutral switch entirely? And assuming there’s a reason for that, why would they not have a normal type of shaft seal on the switch instead of this odd aluminum cast, split threaded post with a round nut with low torque around that shaft, just inviting crud in there to bind things up and fuse things together. My neighbour’s Tacoma has the same issue.

I could not remove my neutral switch. In fact, while watching the switch and changing gears, the shaft, threads, nut and the funny washer all turned as one. So the shaft had fused to the threaded part and broke it free from the switch. Switch still works. I broke one quarter of the threaded shaft trying to free it, but in the end, not wanting to fix something that is working, I simply put the nut on with next to no torque and covered the whole mess with grease. So far so good. Here’s some pics.
How did this hold up? I'm currently sitting in the same boat and can't find anything else on the web. Might try this out
 

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Sometimes in the winter, first thing in the morning, it used to be very difficult to get my 2003 Tundra to shift out of park. Some days it was so bad I was surprised something did not break under my force. Originally, the dealer tried to clean up some of the rust on the cable but that solution did not last long. I promised myself before winter set in again, I would replace the cable.

Attached is my DIY on how to get the job done. I put a lot of detail into this so even an inexperienced mechanic like me should be able to complete this project.
Props and thanks to pinnacle! Your tech note with photos got me thru replacement on '06 Sequoia.. Well done!!
My cable slightly different Part No (33820-0c040) but basically the same design. Saved me a tow and bunch of dough$
Note to others that nut on cable pivot at shift linkage was not cooperative. Sheared it off, but no harm.. As previously noted, replacement cable has integrated bolt at linkage pivot. Be sure to order washer and nut along with cable (90201-09019, 90080-17229).
Take caution not to fubar the gear select shaft/bolt extending from bell housing. Leave it alone! Hopefully it rotates smoothly as mine did. Good luck
 

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I spoke too soon about this problem being resolved.

Winter just refuses to go away this year. Lately, we have had a fair amount of rain and temperatures in the 30's. The combination of moisture in the air and cold temperatures seems to make shifting into drive really stiff. I do not think it is as bad as it was before I replaced the cable but it is definitely abnormally stiff. I really do not know what the problem is. It might be noteworthy to add that I always park my Tundra outside and we have a cement driveway. Hopefully, by refreshing this thread, somebody will see it again and no the answer. In the meantime, I will wait for warmer weather.
Old thread, I know, but figure this may help someone else searching on this problem. With mine, it turned out to be the neutral safety switch.... Found I have to spray the hell out of it with PB Blaster about once a year... Then it seems good for at least 12 months ... First symptom is hard shifting, between gears... And the parking pawl not fully engaging (so truck starts rolling after being parked)... That's when I know to spray it again.
 

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Just saw this now. Great write up! Very useful.


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