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Hey guys, my buddy bought a shock collar for his dog (his dad's a Vet) and he has been using it. He's seen a good response in the dog, and he let me borrow it for Goliath.

Goliath has been outside with it 3 times now and responds to it well, obviously. Now, here's the question, I won't be able to use the shock collar whenever I want, but is it worth it to spend $150 for one that is my personal collar to train my dog? I think it's either $150 for a trained dog, or one that is leash only that still tries to pull me around when he sees another dog - and yes, it's very annoying after almost a year.

I'd like to nip it in the bud now, even if it means using it hardcore for a month, and then on an as-needed basis.

I'd like to hear from Woody and Tundrunk as well as everybody else who has a dog (I know those two for sure have one). Arthur, I know you got one too, so let's hear your opinion.

With the limited research I've done, there's one that's effective for 600 yards, is a bark collar, ultrasound, vibrate, and a shock collar all for $150 as is also waterproof for 15 feet or so. (I figure any deeper adn the dog's dead anyway).

-rockstate
 

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"Rosco" Thread Derailer
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I'll say this once, DON'T USE A SHOCK COLLAR!
Why?
A few examples;
The dog runs after another dog and you "shock" it. Your dog now associates pain coming from other dogs. See, it's like this. In your dogs brain, it wants to play/chase the dog it has in it's sights.
Now you've shocked it and it will think the other dog is what caused the pain. PERIOD!

Example #2:
Your dog see's a kid on a bike. Your dog chases after the kid and you shock it. Now your dog thinks that kid caused the pain. Your dog will become aggressive towards kids/people.

See where I'm going?
Spend the money on a GOOD trainer and your dog will be fine.:tu:
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
A good trainer is $600....

I have the common sense on when to use it of course... and that's only when he's getting away... I will have to do some more research on it.. so let's keep it comin guys!

Off to a test.... I"ll follow up as this post doesn't really reflect my actual thoughts.

-rockstate
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Alrighty, I got a 94 on the test, so I will go ahead and follow up now.

My only intent with this is to keep my dog close to me.. think of it as an extended leash. II"m only going to use it when I feel he is crossing his bounds or doing something he is doing wrong. I will give him the command before using it, and give him the option to respond - at which point he will have already learned the command. In this case, "come."

He has probably one of the best temperaments of any Airedale that I know of, so I would really have to absolutely abuse the power of the shock collar. As a matter of fact, I've never beat him into submission and have only smacked him a few times actually hard. Most of the time a quick smack or the tone of voice will work for him.

As I said before, I am not using this to keep him off the counters, and I am not goign to be using this to keep him from drinking out of the shower when I go in to take a leak, but I will be using this with one goal in mind - get him to respect me when we are outside.

And, as it was when you were a kid, I'm sure you progressed from a tricycle to a bicycle on a track to finally the neighborhood, and then graduated to the road. I won't be starting him out smack dab in the mall on Black Friday.

-rockstate
 

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I have three hunting labs and use shock collars every time out in the field for safety's sake. They are perfectly trained now and the shock collar is unnecessary except for the stimulus of the weight of the device. I could elaborate but that is not the point of the post.

Use the shock collar only when a known command is ignored. That way the choice to ignore the command is the negative feedback given to the dog.

The dog won't necessarily associate the shock with the behavior (such as chasing a bicycle) but rather the command "No", "Heel", or "Come".

The shock is not designed to cause the dog pain but rather to divert the attention away from the undesirable behavior and back to your command. Use the minimum power setting to get this attention.

A dog on a leash should be easily controlled and trained without the shock collar. Be firm, quick, and sharp with the leash correction using a choke collar.

This technique will be the attention getter to convince the dog that you are in control and its behavior is dependent on your wishes. "Heel" is an absolutely necessary command when on a leash. It will work and does work as long as the correction is consistent and harsh.

No reason to get mad at the dog for behaving like a dog. A calm personal demeanor will also calm the dog. No yelling or even raising of the voice. Each time a correction is made, repeat the command that was ignored.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have three hunting labs and use shock collars every time out in the field for safety's sake. They are perfectly trained now and the shock collar is unnecessary except for the stimulus of the weight of the device. I could elaborate but that is not the point of the post.

Use the shock collar only when a known command is ignored. That way the choice to ignore the command is the negative feedback given to the dog.

The dog won't necessarily associate the shock with the behavior (such as chasing a bicycle) but rather the command "No", "Heel", or "Come".

The shock is not designed to cause the dog pain but rather to divert the attention away from the undesirable behavior and back to your command. Use the minimum power setting to get this attention.

A dog on a leash should be easily controlled and trained without the shock collar. Be firm, quick, and sharp with the leash correction using a choke collar.

This technique will be the attention getter to convince the dog that you are in control and its behavior is dependent on your wishes. "Heel" is an absolutely necessary command when on a leash. It will work and does work as long as the correction is consistent and harsh.

No reason to get mad at the dog for behaving like a dog. A calm personal demeanor will also calm the dog. No yelling or even raising of the voice. Each time a correction is made, repeat the command that was ignored.
Thanks for your post. Would you care to elaborate as to which one you use, which one you think would be best, or if you would liek to sell your collar?

This is the one I have been looking at....

Elite-Tek Sports/Hunting SH-9888 Large dog training shock collar

Myb buddy has a sportsdog or sportsman collar for waterfowl, which is what I have been using as of today.

-rockstate
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ha, nah, I used one of these...



Btw, "cattle prod" in google brings up a few interesting images - especially for a public network such as the library lol

-rockstate
 

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I use a Sportdog ProHunter 2500 since it controls three dogs with one unit and three collars of course.

The Sportdog Fieldtrainer 400 or 400S (severe) may fit your needs. I used the earlier model and it was quite effective.

The customer service at Sportdog is top notch in my experience. They also publish user reviews of their collars to help you make a decision.

Not familiar with Elite-Tech. The more simple the electronic the better since there is less to go wrong.

You should really consider first leash training your dog to whatever command you want it to learn. A shock collar is best used for a dog already trained to known commands. It will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I use a Sportdog ProHunter 2500 since it controls three dogs with one unit and three collars of course.

The Sportdog Fieldtrainer 400 or 400S (severe) may fit your needs. I used the earlier model and it was quite effective.

The customer service at Sportdog is top notch in my experience. They also publish user reviews of their collars to help you make a decision.

Not familiar with Elite-Tech. The more simple the electronic the better since there is less to go wrong.

You should really consider first leash training your dog to whatever command you want it to learn. A shock collar is best used for a dog already trained to known commands. It will work.
Thanks man. I took a glance at the fieldtrainer 400 and 400s... but what's hte difference over the other one that you and my buddy are using? They both seem to be the same price, with both the same specs.. one's camo adn one's not, or so it appears..

I'll do some digging right now.

-rockstate
 

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i've been saying that politicians and news reporters / opinionists should have these, attached to a lie detector.
 

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Don't argue with an insomniac.
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I only used one to prevent our dog from running. Otherwise she'd be all over the neighborhood, get hit by a car or worse. Otherwise I'd have to build a fence a mile long (well, not a mile, but very long).

It took her about one minute to learn where her shock perimeter is. She's happy around the house but no longer runs away.

There are two types of these, I got a radio perimeter setup, so no buried wires and no risk that she'll cross the wire and then be afraid to return.
 

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Benny Hill
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i've been saying that politicians and news reporters / opinionists should have these, attached to a lie detector.
GREAT idea - Points sent........
 

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i've been saying that politicians and news reporters / opinionists should have these, attached to a lie detector.

That would only work if they thought they were lying. Most of the F-tards in office now have been spouting the same BS for so long I think they actually believe it. Make every politician take a daily dose of antabuse and Depo-Provera if you want to see a real difference.

Oh, and Flash, I was checking out a pretty girl at the mall a few weeks ago and I know damn well that stabbing pain in my ribs didn't come from her.:angrywife:
 

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"Rosco" Thread Derailer
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Oh, and Flash, I was checking out a pretty girl at the mall a few weeks ago and I know damn well that stabbing pain in my ribs didn't come from her.:angrywife:
I feel your pain...Saturday as a matter of fact I was on the receiving end of the "deadly stare".
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I took him outside this morning for about 15 minutes and not only did I NOT have to shock him once, but I didn't even beep him except to know it was on.

He's whining now, so back outside we go.

-rockstate
 

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There are several different styles of training. Find what works and be consistent. Some believe in "treat" training sometimes used with a little clicker, others use choke collars and the shock collars.

Suppose you are somewhere and the shock collar is not on... if the dog is smart and knows this what do you think will happen. It is the same with treats. If you don't have the treats available at the right time... ?????

You can always give verbal commands and give praise.

I was actually considering a career change to training several years ago. I spent two years going with my (recently deceased) buddy to training classes. It is usually not the canine that needs the training, it is the person. Many people are inconsistent. When I first started training Thumper on my own it was OK but I also ran into that same problem... when he saw other dogs he would "light up" and just go nuts. My main problem was that I was making the same mistake many others do. I would correct on command... not so good.

After just a few months of consistent training I was able to take him off leash for walks through the neighborhood. I kept up with the training because it was a lot of fun and great bonding for us. I got to the point where I could call him off during a chase and I could give him hand signals from 1/4 mile away. I can't stress enough... consistency and praise.

Personally I would never use a shock collar, but to each his/her own. I believe in the choke collar (as correction) method and PRAISE! Corrections are important but the goal (IMHO) should be that you want your canine friend to want to respond to you and pay attention to you. That takes work and lots of praise when they respond. Dogs love to play and get rubbed up and if you make training fun your pal will respond with amazing results. When using any correction training you should never correct while giving any type of command. Physical corrections should only be used when stating verbally the negative or "no" correction. The goal is verbal corrections right?

Think of this... if you tell the dog to heal at the same time you shock or pull on the choke collar it becomes painful for the dog when that command is given and the dog will naturally associate a painful or negative action with that command. If you give a command and the dog responds properly (whatever that means for you) and you give it tons of praise your pal will want more of that love. If he/she does not respond, THEN give the verbal and possible physical correction at the same time, immediately following... restate the command to give the dog a chance to respond as you wish. It takes practice but timing and praise work very well.

For the pulling on the leash... use a choke collar and any time there is a pull use a physical and verbal correction. At first a dog may not like the pull from a choke collar. It should be a very light snap, the lighter the better. Sometimes you will have to step it up and pull pretty hard but don't start by putting your pal into a situation where he/she will fail. Work with the dog on your own away from everything so there are no distractions. Slowly introduce distractions over time. Eventually just a jingle of a chain will work if the verbal "no" does not. If you keep working with your dog you could get to the point where hand signals alone will work.

You should have a heal command and a break command like "take a break" so the dog knows it is not "on" command... which while you are walking through your neighborhood it should be on.

Also, when calling your dog from a distance, "recall" don't call their name more than once. If you do... you are training your pal that calling their name over and over IS the command. You should use a command like "come" and don't even use their name. You don't really want their name associated with the command. Many people don't even realize how what WE do trains our pals to act in a certain way. Recall command is one of the most difficult for some dogs to follow, especially runners when they are out. Start with a 6 or 8 foot lead and call the dog, if it responds keep the encouragement going. If not give the dog a slight physical and verbal correction and give the command again. When it comes over to you have the dog sit in front of you. Make sure you act like a nut giving the dog praise. If you reinforce this and spend the time working with your dog you will be amazed at the results. Thumper used to jump into heal position because he new he would get all rubbed up and loved on.

JMHO, take it for what it is worth.
 

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Benny Hill
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I feel your pain...Saturday as a matter of fact I was on the receiving end of the "deadly stare".
It's nice not having to worry about that :D
 
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