[everythingsgonegreen]

Toyota calls them a "door check" I had to look on a parts site to figure out what to call them in my post. Anyway I took the checks apart and am building them differently, should have it figured out next time I go in the garage, maybe tomorrow.

In Canada here they are $153 list each!! - what a scam for a piece of crap part

Current price in Canada at dealer is $135.90, can't find anywhere local that has them and used auto parts places if they did have them (which they don't) would probably be worn anyway.

Price in Potsdam is $91US.

Both my rear doors are doing this, I have a small child in a car seat on one side, and the other children enter through the other, so for now I've ordered 1 for the side the children go in by themselves. I may try out ordering the part online when I decide to replace the other side, as they're going for ~60-70US$ plus shipping, duty, etc.

Part will be in on Tuesday, so hopefully this will resolve the issue for awhile.

 

[everythingsgonegreen]

can you post up Potsdam's link or where you got them for $60-70? The cheapest I've seen is $113 @ 1stToyotaParts. TIA!

Potsdam was just the Toyota dealer there, TJ Toyota, TJ Toyota-Welcome to TJ Toyota - I just called the parts department and the price they quoted me on the phone was $91. (I only called them as they are just across the border (closest US Toyota dealer to me) and if it was similar to the 'half-price' online sites, it would be worth the drive to get 2 for the price of one!)

The online source, there seem to be many, all in the US and all selling for ~$60-70.

Toyota Parts Cheap - Genuine OEM - $66.59

Toyota Parts - ToyotaPartsBarn.com - $61.60

Prices listed are for the 2006 (not sure if other years would be a different price, can't see why), and I know nothing about these sites and have never purchased anything from them. If you find a decent place to get them online, I may try to have one shipped across the border, or to Ogdensburg and pick it up.

Edit: I just looked at 1stToyotaParts and they are listing for $60.05.

 

[everythingsgonegreen]

I want to know why they don't have the rubber (or whatever it is) protecting the metal edge like they do on the front doors (and on both front and rear doors of my highlander). I might see if there is something that can be put there to make them last longer.

First I need to get the new part so I can figure out what can be done and I'll go from there. I'm hoping it will be in early in the day tomorrow, they would have placed the order today and it is only coming from a warehouse in Toronto.

 

[everythingsgonegreen]

both rear doors do this on my 04 Tundra DC...I'm starting to think they never stayed open with a "door check"...front doors work fine....I bought the truck a year ago so I'm not sure if it was that way new...

On my Sequoia, you can see where it is worn (scraped away) compared to the front. I'll be posting some pictures afterwards. I've got my before pictures from on the car, but will take some comparison pictures with the part off side-by-side with the new.

 

[everythingsgonegreen]

Ok, so based on what I had read in other threads and elsewhere about this issue, it was my impression that the part of the door check that was broken, was the actual black piece (or arm as I will call it). When I measured the broken one and compared it to the new one, there wasn't really a difference. Now, it appears that the actual worn/broken piece is in the enclosed part of the check.

Either way, I now have one properly working rear door, as I only replaced check on the door that gets the most use by non-adult people.

All in all it was a simple job and had I not been trying to entertain 3 of 4 children while doing it, I think it wouldn't have taken more than ~20 minutes.

After popping the door panel off, it was just a matter of removing the speaker (3 bolts holding the spearker mount):

You only need access behind the speaker to fish the old check out and slide the new one in. It is simply removed by taking out the two nuts holding the check on the outside of the door, and one bolt holding the other end to the car side of the check. While being careful not to drop the nuts, I somehow still dropped onE inside the door, so I'll need to go get a new one (the check doesn't come with any).

Here are the removed parts:

After the new one is installed, look NO HANDS! (I was working on an incline so I had to hold the door while taking the initial pictures)

Fully open:

Partially open:

I'll have to order the next one online to try and get a better deal on the part. Well worth not having as much of a risk of crushed kid fingers.

 

[everythingsgonegreen]

Awesome info. +rep.

FYI. I found https://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/oempartscat.html to be the cheapest place including shipping.

How hard is it to pop the panel(s) off? Screw locations?

It's pretty easy...

Hopefully this will explain:

1. Remove door handle bezel:

There is a cover over the phillips screw on the left, it will pry up fairly easily with a small flat head screw driver (pry from side towards the back of the car, the other side is the little plastic piece used as a hinge). On this door mine broke off when trying to pull the screw out, but didn't happen on my front door, so be gentle. Then take a flat head screw driver and insert it in the top (where the circle is) and push the handle of the screw driver down towards the ground slightly. This will pop the top part of the bezel out of the panel. Then on the bottom of the bezel, insert the screw driver and push the handle up this time. You can then slide the bezel out around the handle.

2. Remove window controls/ashtray:

Insert a flat head screwdriver between the arm rest and the panel with the control and push in (where the circle is). You should only have to do one side, and then can just pull the other side out once it releases. Don't do it anywhere other than on one of the ends, as there are other small plastic clips that can break. Once it is out, disconnect the cable from the window control.

3. Remove door screw cover and screw:

Insert a flat head screw driver into the little opening on the cover and it will just pop out easily. There is a phillips screw hiding behind this cover.

4. Remove other clips:

These clips have a little button on the inside, just push the center with a screw driver and it will pop in. Then you can use the small flat head screw driver to pull out the outer ring (the whole thing will come out, including the part you pushed in, it looks similar to a drywall anchor). When re-inserting these, push the center piece out, install the outer ring, then push the pin in.

5. Pop clips on the door panel:

There are 8 clips (similar to your back door ones), using a panel pry tool (the one I'd shown you in another thread), or a screw driver, pop the clips out around the locations shown. I've circled the holes that they go into on the inside of the door, so it should give you a relative idea as to where they are on the door with the panel installed. Then lift the panel upwards as it is snug against the window sill. When re-installing, you'll need to press the top up against the window and pull down first, then pop the clips into the holes.

Note: Don't just pull on the panel after you've lifted it off, there is a cable attached to the courtesy light that needs to be removed.

Then it's just a matter of removing the bolts on the speaker mount as previously shown.

 

[everythingsgonegreen]

Glad to hear it worked out.

I'm guessing there were no issues with the supplier? I'll have to try ordering my drivers side one from there and see what it ends up costing with duty etc.

Let's hope they will last awhile.

Mine is still working after a good week and half of the kids abusing it, we'll see how long it lasts!

 

[everythingsgonegreen]

I have some door checks from V8 donor. $20 shipped anywhere in the US. Will include bolts and nuts.

Not that it matters to me (not in the US), but are you sure they work? They seem to be prone to breaking (ie. not stopping/holding at the two positions). What year is the donor?