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Just received my Doug Thorley Ceramic coated headers for my 06 DC 4x4. Very nice build quality! Thick mounting flange, tubes and collectors! Very solid feeling also. Ceramic finish looks great as well.
Just one question before I install...Why does everyone say to use OEM gaskets? Gaskets that come with the headers look pretty good themselves.
 

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The general consensus seems to be that anything other than an OEM gasket has a higher probability of not maintaining a good seal and developing a leak over the long term. If you do a search you will see a number of different threads on this site. I agree that the DT gasket looks substantial, but figured why tempt fate. I bought the OEM gaskets. My DTs are being installed tomorrow (decided not to take on the task myself).
 

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The general consensus seems to be that anything other than an OEM gasket has a higher probability of not maintaining a good seal and developing a leak over the long term. If you do a search you will see a number of different threads on this site. I agree that the DT gasket looks substantial, but figured why tempt fate. I bought the OEM gaskets. My DTs are being installed tomorrow (decided not to take on the task myself).
Sounds like OEM gaskets it is. I plan on installing this weekend if I find a sweet piece of cardboard to lounge on! Let us know how yours works out. I am interested to see how the headers work with my cat-back and high flow Y pipe. Plan on a little dyno time when I get around to it.
 

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That is a good rule of thumb for many headers, not just DT, and it has been as long as I can remember. In general toss the gaskets that come with headers and get something better like FelPro, or in this case OEM.
 

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I just got the truck back with the DT's installed. It was only a short ride, but I really noticed the difference in power and the exhaust note. I think that I will be very happy with the headers.

The mechanic that installed them said that they were a bit of a PITA to install. It took them 7.5 hours. He noted that the threads for the sensors needed to be rethreaded (apparently the ceramic coating gets in there and the mfr. did not clean them out). He also said that it was good that I bought the OEM manifold and doughnut gaskets as well as new bolts (rather than reusing the old ones). He was impressed with the quality of construction of the headers.

So, I am glad that I decided not to install them myself, as not having a lift, etc. would have made it more of an ordeal. Just not a lot of room to maneuver. Even though it was a bit expensive - $660. So total cost for the headers, gaskets, bolts, and labor was just shy of $1400, for those looking to budget this upgrade.
 

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hi,
that is the going rate to install. around 600.
plus oem gaskets and headers.

i'm glad you went with the OEM gasket's, now you don't have to worry about taking it back in, and having the mech take out the motor mount's and retorquing the bolt's, it's almost like redoing the job all over again. and that i'm sure wouldn't be any from for them either. plus that isn't going to be free. ;-)

the best headers are doug thorley and JBA.
and
they both are a very tight fit, due to there using all available space for larger pipes/tube's, etc. FOR THE BEST POWER INCREASE'S.

well worth every penny, when you finish ALL your mod's,
than try to do a dyno and you will see: the stock 210 at the rear wheel's will be increased. :)

you did notice a difference in power, you know your truck, give it time to adjust.
they had to disconnect your battery to do this job, so the ECU unit is relearning.
the ecu unit will relearn, it always does on the 05 and 06 tundra's.
give it 30 to 50 mile's.
i can suggest more power if you want. but it will cost you a few extra buck's. i can help you with the install of the unichip. it's not that hard. 45minute's to 2 hours at most.
and if you want a cold air intake, the volant is the only cai that unichip map's a map for.
good luck,
gorilla
 

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welcome to the DT clan
i didnt notice much until a day or two went by. now i dig them.
very smooth acceleration and pickup.
 

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Just a little follow up here...Started the install this weekend and all I can say this install is not for the avg shade tree with a small collection of tools. I spent 4 to 5 hours removing and installing the passenger side header. Some of the header/manifold nuts are just about impossible to get to. You could look at the collection of extensions, sockets, pull bars, flex joints and wrenches I had on the floor and tell I was having fun with this install. Damn...What a PITA! There is one nut, on the bottom of the manifold, just above the motor mount that is especially fun! I was constantly trying to get access under the truck, through the fender or under the hood. An extra pair of hands would be a big help if you can con someone in to spending a whole afternoon on this project. Anyway, got the passenger side installed and hope the driver's side is easier. I will finish hopefully this week. One other note, the stock manifold looks like junk compared to the DT ceramic header. Looks like it was designed by someone who had no clue about what they were doing. Three cylinders dump into one pipe while #4 has its own short pipe that joins the main pipe, at the collector, at a funky angle. Looks like flow was not a concern of the original design. Hopefully the DT headers will perform as good as they look. More later....
 

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Good luck with the remainder of the install. When you are done, you will be happy with the results, I am sure. What you are experiencing is why I decided to bite the bullet and have a mechanic install them. It was expensive, but worth it. I have now had the headers on for almost 2 weeks and I am very happy with the results. There is a noticeable power increase with acceleration, and the exhaust note although not louder, is more aggressive. It has made a great truck even better. I would definitely do it again.
 

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Finally finished the install! Drivers side went much faster than passenger side. It was not any easier, actually a little harder, but I had figured out what tools and which method was best. Job is worth $600 for sure. The actual header fitment is pretty easy. Plenty of room to get the header in there...Just getting to all those nuts in the right sequence is the catch. One note to anyone doing this themselves, be sure to soak all the nuts and studs with wd-40 or pb blaster several times, at least a day before you start. I had two studs/nuts seize on the drivers side manifold/exhaust connection that just added icing to the cake on this install. Anyway, initial driving impressions are that there is more low end and midrange power available. Truck does not downshift as much to climb grades. Seems stronger on top two. After the ecu adjusts to the headers I plan on getting a little dyno time also.
 

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We are doing a Jan. special for 10% off of these!!

Too bad I don't have money for headers now, just did my wheels/tires and suspension lift. Maybe next xmas!

So how come there is no Tundra section on the Doug Thorley website? I put in a 2006 toyota and there is not tundra option?
 

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hi, i would suggest to all of you considering headers,
to dyno your stock tundra 1st to see, if your #'s match up with the D.T. #'s.

every tundra is a little different, but it should be near 210 HP stock.

there(D.T.) #'s are alot higher, from the get go in the stock department.
almost 235HP stock, & 238 w/headers HP that's only a 3hp difference.
and
stock torque is 238 , & w/headers 264, a difference of 26foot pounds of torque.

very little HP gain but a large gain in torque.

i haven't paid to much attention to this , since i have JBA's, until now.
just food for thought.
or
maybe someone could explain it better.
i could be missing something here,very badly.
and also i wonder why i continue to see the climbing of the hp & torque but yet, it doesn't read that way.

i have seeen the chart from JBA , that make's more since to me.
even my personal chart posted make's more since.
but like i said i'm no expert on this, so i'm sure i have to be wrong.
gorilla
 

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hello everyone, since my last post ,i was wondering if any of you who bought the DT headers, ever got your tundra dyno'ed?

if so could you post your dyno result's, & what type of dyno was used.

it also should have the shop's name address & phone # on the dyno sheet.

just wondering if your results were as stated by DT dyno sheet showing the same gain's.
gorilla
 

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hello everyone, since my last post ,i was wondering if any of you who bought the DT headers, ever got your tundra dyno'ed?

if so could you post your dyno result's, & what type of dyno was used.

it also should have the shop's name address & phone # on the dyno sheet.

just wondering if your results were as stated by DT dyno sheet showing the same gain's.
gorilla
It's been a while on this thread. But I installed the DT's a month ago, had a pre-install dyno done 4 days before I installed and had another dyno done 1 month later. Same dyno, same time of day, same shop, almost the same temp in the shop (mid 60's F). The install ... well, I'll write more later. Let's cut to the beef, the dyno graphs.

Shop info:
Name: Dyno Inc.
Dyno type: Mustang MD-AWD-500-SE
Phone: 757-493-3555
Location: 549 Birdneck Rd, Virginia Beach, VA 23451


Print-out scanned to JPG:



Just the graph:



Specs:
pre: 231hp/268tq
post: 240hp/268tq
I have to point out the much smoother torque curve and HP curve in the DT headers pulls. The torque curve also plateaus around 3600 all the way to 4300 RPM, where previously I just had a single spike at about 3900 RPM. There lies the big difference.

My Tundra's mods:
TRD Air Filter, Doug Thorley Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, URD MAF Sensor Calibrator, read more here...
 

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This is what I currently see at tundraracing right now 2005-2006 Tundra 4.7 Part # $449+$25 frt. Also why doesn't dt use ss instead of mild steel?
 
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