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It's been a while on this thread. But I installed the DT's a month ago, had a pre-install dyno done 4 days before I installed and had another dyno done 1 month later. Same dyno, same time of day, same shop, almost the same temp in the shop (mid 60's F). The install ... well, I'll write more later. Let's cut to the beef, the dyno graphs.

Shop info:
Name: Dyno Inc.
Dyno type: Mustang MD-AWD-500-SE
Phone: 757-493-3555
Location: 549 Birdneck Rd, Virginia Beach, VA 23451


Print-out scanned to JPG:



Just the graph:



Specs:
pre: 231hp/268tq
post: 240hp/268tq
I have to point out the much smoother torque curve and HP curve in the DT headers pulls. The torque curve also plateaus around 3600 all the way to 4300 RPM, where previously I just had a single spike at about 3900 RPM. There lies the big difference.

My Tundra's mods:
TRD Air Filter, Doug Thorley Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, URD MAF Sensor Calibrator, read more here...
So how long did it take to install those?
Looks good.
Now you have to get forced induction for your tundra, and drive it, until wheels fall off.
 

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Install was quick and pretty easy. No problems at all. And no leaks. Replaced all hardware and gaskets, kept the OE studs, used the supplied DT header gaskets too. :tu:

Disassembly of the OE manifolds was a bear. A big, hungry, bloody, wet, bear. Had one nut go round and had to be cut off with a dremel until it popped off. What a hassle, four hours of broken cut-off wheels, laying on your back, arms all up in the truck's guts, neck resting on the transmission... Other than that one seized nut, all the other ones came off with 2 cans of penetrating lube and some encouraging words. :D
 

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Install was quick and pretty easy. No problems at all. And no leaks. Replaced all hardware and gaskets, kept the OE studs, used the supplied DT header gaskets too. :tu:

Disassembly of the OE manifolds was a bear. A big, hungry, bloody, wet, bear. Had one nut go round and had to be cut off with a dremel until it popped off. What a hassle, four hours of broken cut-off wheels, laying on your back, arms all up in the truck's guts, neck resting on the transmission... Other than that one seized nut, all the other ones came off with 2 cans of penetrating lube and some encouraging words. :D

So did you remove and install these by your self?
How long did it take all together?
 

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So did you remove and install these by your self?
Absolutely! Wouldn't have done it any other way. BJ and his son Andrew also helped. Where's the satisfaction of finishing a project if you have to pay someone else to do it for you?

How long did it take all together?
Minus the time I went home and slept out my frustration of rounding a nut on the most difficult to reach stud, and minus the dremel grinding time of removing that nut, about 8 hours. Driver's side = 5hrs, Passenger side = 2-3hrs.
 

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Channel lock pliers?
There was/is no room for pliers where I was reaching. Even with the engine mount off. Maybe if we removed the left CV, upper and lower control arms, wheel hub and brake hard line snakes... but that wasn't in the books.
 

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I did my header install today. I highly recommenced investing in a torch setup, I heated all the bolts and they came off easy. Took me 4 hours total.

Buy torches :)
 

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Absolutely! Wouldn't have done it any other way. BJ and his son Andrew also helped. Where's the satisfaction of finishing a project if you have to pay someone else to do it for you?
There is no greater feeling then doing all of the mods your self :) :tu:
 

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What about doing a 13.5 second quarter mile after doing all the mods yourself. :heh:
I don't really care about 13.5 in a quarter mile... But if you wish to drive down here, I will let you take my truck for a spin on a drag racing course :yo:
I would say who I raced, and what my results were, but as you know.... my posts will be removed without any warning.
 

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Thanks, but we tried those, and about 2 others like them. All claiming "guaranteed to remove any stuck/rusted/rounded bolt..." but nothing worked. From my perspective, the design flaw of those removal tools is that they don't consider the seized nut on a long bolt shaft. If they made a deep socket version, maybe that would have worked better for our needs at the time. And being on the stud under the engine mount where we had to use a 24" extension and a universal to reach it through the wheel well, ... , that didn't help the situation. lol

I bought a 14mm socket from Autozone, made by GreatNeck (in china of course). That socket was the perfect length, not shallow, yet not deep, it was like the mama bear's bed of socket lengths. In conjunction with the universal 14mm socket, the install job went very smoothly. Sears sells the uni-14's for like $8/ea. Northern sells a universal metric set (6mm-19mm) for like $17/set. Nice specialty tool to have in your toolbox. To be clear, the universal 14mm is a socket built into the universal joint, so the tool is much more versatile than having a socket on the end of a universal.
 

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Just bumping this thread as these trucks are getting more sought after and the value is increasing these days

Looking for curious looking for owner testimonials - updates from customers with them. Would you buy again, MPG's etc.
Also as always, additional dyno sheets.
Just purchased an 06' Crew 4x4 I tow my race car with and looking to have some fun and gain some mid-range.
 
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