[Tundradrenalin]

This was an easy and inexpensive mod with significant results. My truck has an adjustable coilover lift, 2.5" lift set at just about 2", just as many other members have. My front swaybar kind of lost its effect after the lift and I gained a small amount of body roll on the front of the truck. You can notice the hoods angle when you take sharp corners at considerable speeds.

Here's what a normal, non-lifted sway bar link looks like...

Photo courtesy of BAD BONEZ BJ.
Notice the proper squish factor.


Here's what mine looked like...

note: polyurethane bushings seen here are reused later.


Here's what mine look like now...

note: this is after 2 days of normal driving to allow settling.
Notice the natural angle and better squish factor.


Anyways, I'm not selling you on this product, just showing you how to install it :thumb:


Tools needed:
* Downey H.D. Sway Bar Links, found here
* 3/8" Torque wrench w/ sockets - 14mm deep, 17mm deep, 19mm
* 17mm Open end wrench
* 6mm Hex key
* 1/2" Drill or Drill Press
* 5/8" carbide drill bit (pansy bits need not apply)
* Silicone grease
* PB Blaster (or similar) for the bolts
* a cheaper spray lubricant for the drilling


Step 1, Prep work.
Block rear tires, parking brake, neutral gear, key at ON position so you can turn wheels while under the truck. Lift front crossmember so front wheels are just off the ground.


Step 2, OEM Removal.
You'll need the 14mm deep and 17mm deep sockets here.
Remove the sway bar as seen here...

Now remove the OEM end links...

The removal of the lower nut is a bit tricky, the head is captured inside the little boot, so it turns with the nut after it's loosened. You have to hold the bolt end using the 6mm Hex key and turn the nut off using the 17mm Open end wrench. It's a small PITA...

Another angle of the captured bolt...

New H.D. link doesn't have this captured bolt, instead they used an eyelet with a large bushing inside...

Step 3, Drill the 5/8" hole.
The sway bar is one of the hardest metals on your truck, if not the hardest.

***I encourage you to WEAR SAFETY GLASSES***​

You will need some patience or a very high RPM drill or impact drill here.
At one point, the bit I used turned red at the tip. The bar was also too hot to hold even at the center with your bare hands.

You may be asking: Why drill this larger hole?
It's in the instructions, do it.
No really, it allows more play for the larger diameter stud used in the new links.
But, the factory hole in the sway bar is plenty large enough for the new stud, you can probably skip this step.


Step 4, Install the new links.
Reinstall the sway bar C-channel bushings. The kit comes with new ones, but I already had the Wheeler's anti-sway poly kit, so I opted out of the new Downey bushings and they took off $25 from the H.D. kit price.:tu:

Take a look at the new links, much beefier than the OEM links...

Downey's H.D. End Links are galvanized to prevent corrosion.

The new H.D. links use stronger hardware as well. You'll use a 17mm nut on the wider diameter stud as well as a 19mm nut on the 1/2" bolt holding the link to the mounting point.
Here's a photo with the discriptions...

Step 5, Tighten and Torque.
14mm nuts to 19 ft lbs (sway bar c-channel brackets)
17mm nuts to 14 ft lbs (new link studs)
19mm nuts to 25 ft lbs (new link mounting bolts)

Now, test out your hard work! :devil: Drive around, hit some bumps, take some turns, go and check the torque on everything. After a few days, if you so desire, recheck the torque again for safety.


References and thank yous:
I would like to thank oneprblmcat for his very helpful thread: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/128145-front-sway-bar-linkage-snapped/
I would also like to thank BAD BONZ BJ and his two sons for their help in completing this project. :thumb:

 

[blackbird]

Nice writeup. I was thinking about doing this mod since I noticed both my links were fairly rusted at the time I replaced the OEM bushings with urethane ones.

Did you get the standard length links or longer ones due to your lift?

 

[BAD BONEZ BJ]

Yeah, you'll need a good drill and drill bit. A black oxide bit will not cut it, you'll need either Titanium-coated or Cobalt Drill Bit, which-ever is hardest to cut through the hardness of the sway-bar. Also, cutting oil is highly recommended for the bit while drilling.

If you are not up to this drilling part, find a local machine shop an pay to have it drilled out.

Hey Tundradrenalin, finished product install looks good! It' got the right angles now for sure.

 

[Tundradrenalin]

Nice writeup. I was thinking about doing this mod since I noticed both my links were fairly rusted at the time I replaced the OEM bushings with urethane ones.

Did you get the standard length links or longer ones due to your lift?

After looking at oneprblmcat's links, it appears I received we received different lengths. I called Downey, spoke with the sales rep, who in turn spoke with a guy who assembles the kits, and they put together a kit for me. On their site I didn't notice two different size kits. The 23mm and the 27mm kits they sell are the diameters of the sway bars, which mine was neither (1" bar = 25.4mm). And since I didn't want the sway bar c-channel bushings, the diameter differences weren't an issue, they just left them out of the kit.

 

[blackbird]

I just got off the phone with a guy at Downey who was VERY informative.

• Recommends using the same length sway bar end as the OEM part just like Tundradrenalin did even for lifted trucks.

• Strongly recommends drilling out the sway bar holes again as Tundradenalin did.

• Interested in running a sale on Downey skid plates as he has too much inventory. I suggested that he do a group buy like Hellwig did on their rear sway bars.

• Has a CV boot that he said was much better than the OEM ones but apparently is not yet up on their web site yet. I'm 2WD so it doesn't affect me.

Anyway, I ordered my end links with $25 off since I don't need the sway bar bushings. Thanks Tundradrenalin for that!

 

[Tundradrenalin]

I just got off the phone with a guy at Downey who was VERY informative.

• Recommends using the same length sway bar end as the OEM part just like Tundradrenalin did even for lifted trucks.

• Strongly recommends drilling out the sway bar holes again as Tundradenalin did.

• Interested in running a sale on Downey skid plates as he has too much inventory. I suggested that he do a group buy like Hellwig did on their rear sway bars.

• Has a CV boot that he said was much better than the OEM ones but apparently is not yet up on their web site yet. I'm 2WD so it doesn't affect me.

Anyway, I ordered my end links with $25 off since I don't need the sway bar bushings. Thanks Tundradrenalin for that!

You bet bro!
I hope your results are as promising as mine were. Report back! :thumb:

Hey thanks for confirming all those specs for me too:tu:

 

[fastmhz]

I might get this mod done. I've been getting back into the truck scene since I've sold my S2000. That stock sway bar looks so manipulated from the lift!

 

[Boosted27606]

Nice info !

 

[Greenie]

Thanks for bringing this upgrade to light. My front end link bushings have become worn and need replacing. Are these new end links applicable to two wheel drive models?

 

[Tundradrenalin]

Thanks for bringing this upgrade to light. My front end link bushings have become worn and need replacing. Are these new end links applicable to two wheel drive models?

Check out your sway bar and make the call. Do the connections look like mine?

 

[2XOverhead]

Nice. Sticky it! :tu:

 

[Agent 409]

ok...so where can i buy this 5/8" drill bit in cobalt that would be local??

i know mcmaster carr or msc have them online...anyone have a link they can send me to..

 

[Tundradrenalin]

I'm sure you can go to Lowes or HD and pick one up, but here's a link to carbide bits at Grainger: Grainger Industrial Supply

 

[Agent 409]

i called HD..they didn't have it..1/2" is as large as they go. pussies.

i just picked up a reduced shank cobalt bit from mcmaster carr for 34 clams...
thanks for the tip tho..

part #: 8939A12 for future reference if anyone cares

 

[Crazy Ivan]

Would like to hear from you guys about those sway bar end links?
I know you used them for a while, are they worth it?
I am thinking to buy them for my truck

thanks
gene

 

["00"Tundra]

I cannot see any of the images in the first post. Does anyone else have this problem?

 

[Tundradrenalin]

Would like to hear from you guys about those sway bar end links?
I know you used them for a while, are they worth it?
I am thinking to buy them for my truck

thanks
gene

Hey Gene, here is the thread that introduced me to them: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/128145-front-sway-bar-linkage-snapped/. I have to agree with the other guys that have done this, it's a must for the Gen1. And a Very Easy one at that.

"00"Tundra, the pics are from my gallery. You shouldn't have any problem viewing them. But if you do, click on my camera icon and browse them in their respective gallery. Let me know if you still encounter problems so I can check it out.

 

[Crazy Ivan]

Thank you Andy.
I think that I will do this mod next (hoping that my baby changes sleeping cycle from day time to night time)

All of the pictures post fine.
Nice write up. :tu:

 

[tundratrader]

Just got the downey kit. My bushings were all shot. I had ordered the wheelers kit a while back to fix just the bushings on everything but then found this thread. It all looks very strudy I just wonder why the bolts arent grade 8? Has anyone upgraded the mounting bolts or better yet has anyone broke one of the grade 5 ones? I dont see any reason not to use grade 8 bolts.

What do you all think.

Zach

 

[TUNDRAWOODY]

Heres the sway bar links i used with my lift. They are a carquest #k80083 off of a ford f53 and the bolt size is 1/2" so its very easy to drill out.