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Easy Peasy fix . I did mine this week . Bulb was about 5 bucks and I didn't remove the 4 plug harnesses . I just laid the cluster flat and came up underneath with screwdriver to remove bulb . There was enough slack to do that .

Although I did honk my horn 10 times resting my arms on the sterring wheel while unscrewing the cluster bezel . LOL . Everytime the horn went off I jumped . Made it a little louder cause I did it in my garage . My neighbors were thinking " Who in the Heck is he Honking at " LOL .
 

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Old thread, but looks like it is a common problem. I just replaced all my indicators with LEDs. NeoWedge series LED Lamp Specifications is where I got them. Neo wedge4. Just pop the panel out and put the new bulb in. Very easy project. And you can change the colors!
 

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Mine's been out for awhile. Should I care? Just another little quirk with the vehicle.. like the back window not going down... and the back door latch needing replaced... and the 4wd orange light blinking... and the brake light / traction lights coming on.... all little stupid problems that should come with a recall... but don't.
 

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Mine's been out for awhile. Should I care? Just another little quirk with the vehicle.. like the back window not going down... and the back door latch needing replaced... and the 4wd orange light blinking... and the brake light / traction lights coming on.... all little stupid problems that should come with a recall... but don't.
Sorry to see your having a problem with a little bit of everything a sequoia is known for. Only things I can offer:

Buy the LED that I posted, less than $2 or you can replace them all to change it up.

4wd light and traction control light - I had same problem some time ago. Try unpugging and replugging the 3 plugs in the back of the instrument cluster. Unhook battery and rehook. It must have reset something for me and it worked.

Back window - I am not sure how to link to another page, but check this thread out
HTML:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-sequoia/66151-sequoia-rear-window-not-working/
HTML:
Sucks that you have all these problems, I guess I have been pretty lucky:blushed:
 

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Hey guys,

As I said in the title, the little green light that illuminates the "D" in the instrument cluster is out. Is this an easy fix? If there is a DIY could someone be so kind to let me know? Dealer wants $150 to replace a friggin light bulb.
Did mine recently - wrote it up as completely as I could:

1. The plastic housing around the steering column is secured by three Phillips-head screws. One screw is located on the underside of the plastic housing. The other two screws – one on the left side, one on the right, are only accessible when the steering wheel is turned 90 degrees left and right respectively. These two screws can be removed with the engine running so that the wheel can be easily turned 90 degrees left and right. After removing all three screws, the upper and lower sections can be carefully snapped apart. The lower section can be completely removed. The upper section is retained by the rubber boot around the gear shifter but can be moved around as necessary. Moving the upper section of the plastic housing to the right allows access to the spring clip on the bottom left side of the black instrument bezel.

2. Remove two 10 mm bolts from right side of the large plastic panel located below the steering column. The panel can then be pulled out and down slightly on the right side to allow access to the spring clip on the bottom right side of the black instrument bezel.

3. The black instrument bezel is held in place by two screws at the top and two spring clips at the bottom. The two screws can be removed from the top underside of the black instrument bezel using a stubby #2 Phillips head screwdriver. The two spring clips can be released with a flat screwdriver blade.

4. Pull out the black plastic instrument bezel. You may need to move the gear shifter down to create enough clearance.

5. Remove the four screws holding the instrument cluster in place. The instrument cluster can then be gently worked out of the dash by moving it to the left. There are several wiring connectors on the back side of the instrument cluster that do NOT need to be disconnected.

6. Gently rotate the instrument cluster so that the back side of the cluster is accessible. There are seven bulbs in a row that correspond to P, R, N, D, 2, L and OD Off, so the middle bulb is the "D" bulb. The bulb is removed from the back side of the instrument cluster by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver into it and turning about 1/4 turn counter clockwise.

7. Put in the new bulb – Toyota P/N 83120-04090 - and reinstall everything in reverse order.
 

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Happens to us gen 1 Tundra owners too. Replaced mine about 3 weeks ago. $5 for bulb, 10 minutes to replace old one - can't believe dealer's cost to do it and 99% of that is labor!
 

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I just want to say thanks for this write up. I just purchased a 2002 Sequoia and the drive indicator light is out. I will be changing it this weekend. It is really awkward how it seems to only be the drive light. I guess because it spends the most time in drive. Anyway thanks again for the write up.:ts:
Mark
 

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I read this whole thread then did the job and I thank everyone for the help. But there's some incorrect information on what dash parts you must remove to get at these little light bulbs (virtually none) and what color they are. And you might like to know what the LEDs suggested in a previous post look like in the dash at night.

This repair is super easy and does NOT require most of the steps outlined in previous posts, at least in the 2003 Tundra. Why Toyota dealers want two hours of labor to do it is anyone's guess. An experienced mechanic should be able to do it in 15 minutes and have time for a quick coffee. It boils down to: 1) Remove two screws. 2) Pull a dash trim piece out a little. 3) Remove the bezel. 4) Remove four screws holding the instrument pod in place and remove it from the dash. 5) Optional: Remove four wire connectors from pod. 6) Replace bulb(s). 7) Reinstall.

Details: The black plastic bezel around the instrument pod is held in by two Phillips head screws on top and three bayonets on the bottom. These are the only two screws that need to be removed to get the bezel out of the dash. The right three inches of the bezel's lower edge has a groove on the front of it. The very top edge of the instrument panel trim piece with a hole for the ignition key has a corresponding groove that fits over the bezel's groove and holds the bezel in and the two pieces together. To get the bezel out, tilt the steering wheel all the way down, move the gearshift all the way down to 1 (ignition on and foot on brake), and put your fingers into the crack between the steering column and the big plastic trim piece with the cutout for the ignition key. Pull straight out (aft) firmly on this trim piece. Its two friction bayonets will come out an inch or two (the panel will bend) and release the lower right edge of the black bezel. Now you can pull the bottom of the bezel towards you (straight aft) to remove the friction bayonets. Squeeze the bezel to make it shorter and remove it.

This will expose the four Phillips head screws that hold the instrument pod in place. Remove them (don't drop the bottom ones - I used a magnet) and pull the pod out of its hole. To do that, tilt the bottom of the pod towards you, move the entire pod right then remove the left end. I then removed the four attached wiring connectors to make the pod easier to work on (some have omitted this step) and eliminate confusion about which is the D bulb. Unscrew the bulb an eighth of a turn with a small standard screwdriver and pull it out. While I had the pod in my lap I swapped the "4HI" bulb with the identical "CRUISE" bulb which had seen a lot of use.

You also can do this repair and not spend a penny by swapping the D bulb with one from another less-used position, maybe the 1 position since it's obvious what gear you're in when the shift lever is in your lap.

Bulb color: Previous posts said the bulbs were green or amber. At least in the 2003 Tundra they are clear. It is the instrument pod dots that are colored. Thinking the bulbs were colored as described in a previous post, I ordered the suggested full set of 5 green and 2 amber LEDs from superbrightleds.com. Even with a green LED behind a green lens the LEDs are brighter than the stock bulbs (but a very pretty bright emerald green). Further, the one in the D position does not dim when headlights are turned on. At night, although it is not blinding it's pretty bright; bright enough that I took the dash apart again and removed the LED in the D position and replaced it with a working bulb I'd saved. I left the LEDs in the other positions. Somehow the O/D OFF light seems dimmer than oem and I may change that back to a bulb. If I had it to do again, obviously I'd skip the LEDs and buy a bulb from the dealer.

Don't hesitate to do this repair. All you need are a Phillips head screwdriver and either a small standard screwdriver or a pair of pliers. A magnetized Phillips screwdriver or a magnet on a stick would be helpful.
 

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Tuneguy! is right. This is not as drawn out as the factory service manual suggests. It reminds me of the FSM procedure to replace the alternator on a 4.7L 2003. It calls for the the removal of the power steering vane pump, and all the bleeding associated with replacing it when you are done with the alternator. All that is required is to remove the screws and pull it out of the way with the hoses attached. What a friggin waste of time and money. It pays so much to learn to do some of your own maintenance.

.
 

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subscribed. I'm ordering the bulb from the dealer on Tuesday after the Monday holiday. I can't stomach $9 shipping for the only place online that sells the part number.
Thanks for the instructions!
 

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Or you could just run to Radio Shack and pick up a package of 2 micro lamps for $2 and take the old bulb out, and fish the wires of the new one in. It's not the same size, but it works and it's dirt cheap. Check under the post for homelink bulbs if you want more idea of how this is done. It's super simple.
 

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So I decided to dive in and "fix" my dead Drive bulb today. The plan was to replace with the L bulb. Everything went as planned except that when I tested after swapping the Drive for L, now both are working!! Hopefully this will remain.
 

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I was working on my '01 Saturday and since I had ordered two replacement bulbs a awhile ago I decided it was time for the repair. As it turns out the bulb was ok. There must have been a bad connection or something loose because after I removed the dash and placed the shifter in Drive the bulb lit up. I put it back together and it is still working.

For those that have a bulb burned out this is a simple repair so I would urge you to do repair it.
 

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I just did this on my Sequoia. It is a little tricky to get the instrument cluster out and you do have to loosen the panel below the ignition switch because the trim in front of the instrument cluster "hooks" behind this panel. It is best to unplug the three connectors behind the cluster and take it out of the vehicle where you have more light. I used needle nose pliers to remove and replace the bulbs. Like many I just relocated the L2 bulb. Now I have to do my wife's Sequoia.
 

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Hey guys,

As I said in the title, the little green light that illumimnates the "D" in the instrument cluster is out. Is this an easy fix? If there is a DIY could someone be so kind to let me know? Dealer wants $150 to replace a friggin light bulb.
Did you ever get that part #
 
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