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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi everyone, i just placed my order for EBC sport rotors & yellow front disc pad's.
as far as pricing: please refer to www.placeforbrakes.com.
and please make sure if you ever decide to order them you look for the promo code's.
i was told that code will not last long, they switch promo codes for the different type's they sell. so i went for the whole ball & wax.

i searched everywhere & called several local shop's.
this place is the cheapest for EBC products period.
i did the research & found out there pricing was the best, that i found.

maybe you will find a cheaper place, but not by much.
& with free shipping it helped seal the deal.

yes, i spend alot. but it's what i really need.

i thought about just pro-cutting the rotors, which i will do, whenever i feel like, or if i want to switch back, or if down the road sell my toy. take them off, & replace the rotors cut & w/almost brand new pads-approx 3,000miles on them.

but for now why not buy the whole package.
so i can give it the best chance.
lets see what EBC is all about.
and the bonus is getting them cheaper than anywhere else.

i will do a write up, post a thread. with facts. i'm going to mark out distances & mph.
and try the oem & than the EBC.
so you will not have to see, it feel's like.

if you want to see what i bought go to place for brakes web site.
follow there instructions that will lead you to the rotor's.
than do the same for the yellow pads.
read up on them.
although any product always has a selling point.

i belive EBC from what i was told, was top shelf.
i'm sure there are other companys.
but i'm giving it a try.
i should have everything by friday. HOPEFULLY. and i hope to have my friend,
who is a MASTER ASE MECHANIC do the job for me.

pep buys wanted approx. 900 off the top of there head, for the whole job.
new rotors & pads, & installion.
but they would give me a 10% discount. LOL
anyway, i'm going to be the ginnie pig here, once again.

i will have my old rotors & pads if i dont' like them.
lets hope no codes come up, on my dash ABS, etc...
they will not be for sale, at this point.

also if you want to talk to place for brakes ask for chris at ext 14.

here is how i looked at the pads if the dealership lists the pads for approx. $80 for OEM,
if you don't get any discounts.
why not for a little more, & buy a much better set, that fit's my need's.
they are also great for many thing's.

a new thread for EBC will be posted asap.
i have some work to do, with my old brakes to see the stopping distance & the fading after as many as i could hard braking, and whatever else i think of.
i hope this work's out & i'm able to help other's.
regards,
gorilla
 

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What are you a guinnie pig for? I've had the EBC sport rotors on my truck for a couple of months now with the Green stuff pads. I like them, but the annoying thing about them is they make a "swish" sound while driving at slower speeds that it audible with the windows rolled down.
 

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hi, ask yourself 1 question. do you like your brakes.

if you do, put the same on.

i like the feel & pedal, & braking of my OEM brakes.

so i will never change mine
.



i know from the past i bought the most expensive brakes available for my vehicles.

and i hated the feel, & wear was horrible.

i run through brakes every 20,000 miles or so.



i bet if i used aftermarket it would be every 10,000 or less.

it's happened before. so i stick with OEM.

but thats up to you.

good luck,

gorilla

What made you change your outlook on this matter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
hi, gennie pig was mentoned due to me asking about pads for high speed.
no one mentioned EBC yellow.
green is for regular use.
where the yellow is specificly for something completely different.
i posted it i belive in the braking section.

i upgraded many thing's for road racing & 1/4mile racing at the track.
but more importantly extremely high speed, since my limitor has been disabled.
no more shut down at 105mph. thank god. that was barthering me since it 1st happened.
so now 5 years have gone by & my dream came true.
thanks to the ULTIMATE PERFORMANCE MODULE: UNICHIP!!! :)

so i needed to go with a set up that will with stand the braking force now.
i was only going to go with the yellow pads, & pro-cut my rotors.
but i decided to have the complete set up.
i'm also going to still run a direct air feed to the rotors/caliper/brakes.
which will keep it even cooler. i have idea's, but i'm going to leave that job to the pro's.

oh i forgot, i know oem gives people ,even some 50,000 miles, but i get approx. 24,000 miles.
but if i can stop alot sooner, better, with less fade, it's well worth changing the pads every 10,000 miles.
it could even at normal driving stop sooner, could save me a accident. if you can stop 30' shorter. thats alot. we all have had close call's, with feet sometime inches. if these give me 10feet or more shorter in stopping distance, depending on the speed. it's well worth the money.
what if a kid jumps out of the bushes and runs into the street into my path, & i can stop without hitting me/her. it's well worth every penny.
gorilla
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hi, i just got the pads. fast shipping UPS.
rotors are a direct ship from EBC i should recieve them by friday.

as for the EBC what do you think, beside the swish sound.
i can live with that. my audio & exhaust will drown that out for sure.

were they both a direct fit (rotors & pads)????
how easy were they to install?
i want to tell my installer friend.

anything you can tell me, that isn't told within the paper work.
which i assume they come with?
meaning any tip's, tricks, etc?

also how do they stop compared to OEM rotor & pads?
thanks,
gorilla




What are you a guinnie pig for? I've had the EBC sport rotors on my truck for a couple of months now with the Green stuff pads. I like them, but the annoying thing about them is they make a "swish" sound while driving at slower speeds that it audible with the windows rolled down.
 

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They're a direct bolt on replacement and don't take too long to replace. In fact, I think it took me longer to jack the truck up and remove the wheels than anything else.

There are two 14 or 17mm bolts holding the caliper to the bracket, which you must remove to get the caliper out of the way to replace the rotor. You might want to use a bungee cord or rope or something to hold the caliper out of the way while you're working on things. My original rotors were rust welded on so I did use a rubber mallet to remove them from the truck. If I remember correctly the new rotor did not like sitting in its spot very well and so I tapped on it with a mallet to seat it and hold it in place when putting the caliper back on. For the other side I had a buddy hold the rotor while putting the caliper back on, which is the hardest part of the project. Again, use a rubber mallet to line the bolt hole back up between the caliper and the caliper bracket.

I was really impressed with the layout that Toyota used on the calipers to hold the pads. Had I only been installing pads all I would have had to do was pull them out without removing the caliper. I also used a packet of anti-squeak from the auto store on the pads. Although, and it's been a few months, you may still have had to take the calipers off in order to push the piston back in. If you have to push the piston back in, hook up a break bleader to the blead screw so push the fluid out of the truck and not back into the reservoir under the hood. I made this mistake and overflowed the reservoir.

Be sure to follow the seating instructions that came with the pads. I think mine weren't fully seated until something like 200-500-1000 miles, according to the instructions. Breaking has been greatly improved, but I'd think it would have been given the warped stock rotors would have been easily improved upon. They actually stop the truck, which is nice, but the combo of the pads/rotors and my new TKo's (which weigh a metric ton more then the previous tires) is confidence inspiring. The only major problem that I've had is that in two panic stops that I've had since intalling them, the rear brakes lock up relatively quickly and sends the *** end of the truck to one side or the other. In both cases I was traveling at 60-65 mph and had to slam on the brakes. The rear brakes are the stock drums with the stock pads. It would be nice if EBC made rear shoes for the Tundra, but I haven't seen any yet, otherwise they'd already be on the truck.
 

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Seattle, get to a dealership and have them reset the rear brake bias. Yours is messed up...the rear brakes should not lock before the front.

As a matter of fact, your truck should have ABS, unless you've disabled it...it should be kicking when the rear locks.

I've dealt with a similar problem on my truck (too much rear brake), and personally I would avoid driving yours if it's locking the rear during panic stops.

A note about pad material...

If you have DD pads, low speed, non-aggressive, whatever you want to call them...they are working mostly by abrasion. They do not require much, if any, heat to be effective...and heat will cause them to be ineffective and a pain in the ***.

If you have "race" pads, they are working mostly by adhesion, and they require heat to work well. At cooler temperatures on the street, your stopping distance may increase because you must press harder to generate enough heat and pressure to activate the cold brakes.

Know the difference! And know what YOU need, on YOUR track, YOUR street, etc...because if you are upgrading to race pads with the idea that you're going to be making shorter panic stops to avoid the proverbial busload of nuns, then you are very soon going to have a very high insurance rate.

What you have now (Gorilla) is probably going to be excellent at the track. Whether it works well on the street will depend on how you drive, and the compound of the pad.

The front brakes are a piece of cake to change. Follow Seattle's instructions. The bolts take 90ft-lbs to seat, and use RED loctite on them. Always bleed the brakes afterward...and incidentally, when the "brake" light is staying on, that means it's time to change the brakes and flush the front lines...don't add fluid, it's not necessary, just leave the bleeder closed, push the pads back, and flush the lines out the front.

Also, I do clean the mating surface between the rotor and hub, when I take everything apart...there's usually some scale and other junk in there, and it will keep the rotor from seating true.

-Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hi, i want to thank you both.
i was also able to give you both points. ;-)
thanks, i'm going to print this out.
thanks again,
gorilla
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
hi, today i had the new EBC ROTOR'S dimpled & slotted, & new EBS YELLOWstuff pad's installed.
it took about 30 minutes. i took off the lugs & locks & tires. my neighbor/friend ase mech. did the job.
he is also going to cut the OEM rotors for me. total $50, plus tip. a great deal.

i took the tundra for a ride, about 5 minutes slow at 1st, than pressed on the brake pedal hard.
it throw me foward. stopped on the dime.
never ever!!! did this happen since new. or even when i had the OEM pads installed.
the oem pads are like brand new he said, & could be re-used. the rotors needed to be cut.
he knew right away high heat, high speed stopping.

know i know there is a brake in period.
but from what i felt in 5 minutes, if it is suppose to get only better.
HOLLY SH%T!!!!!!!!!!
are these rotors & pad's, well worth it.

i did take a few picture's from a old fashion camera.
so i have to go to walgreens to get them devoloped.
my other friend wasn't home to use there digital 1.
i honestly don't think you will notice anything different.
they seem to be the same thickness in rotors & pads.
the difference is the center of the rotor allowing for more air.
and there slotted & dimpled.
& the pads have to be made of a different compound.
other wise how do you explain the stopping power.
NO NOISE AT ALL, so far.
i'll let you know as time goes on.
but i'm happy with the out come.
it's a HUGE difference.
oh i forgot: they are directional meaning there is a left rotor & a right rotor.
also there is a brake in time of 1000miles.
no extreme braking until than ,unless a emergency.
when i hit the brakes i didn't hit them extremely hard either. and it stopped,
throwing me forward. o've course i had my seat belt on.
and i was going about 25mpg.
honestly EBC will without a doubt, will out perform OEM.

now if you have any issue with braking,or would like to be even safer on the road.
i would call place for brakes, & place a order.
you will not be disappointed!
by EBC nor place for brakes, & there customer service, speed in shipping, arrived in great shape,
boxed very well, and most importantly pricing or the awesome braking! :)
money well spent.
gorilla
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
hi i seen on TV hoperpower on spike.
the EBC commerial.
up to 30% increase in stopping power.
depending on what set up you have, i guess.
well i bought there best.
i don't doubt, i have a increase.
i will do the brake in, period correctly.
and than see what she's got.
be back in 1000miles
gorilla
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
hi, i have to tell you this.
if you order these, you will see, the coating does come off.
i assume it goes onto the pads. than as you brake it goes back on to the rotors.
and slowly it wears back off. it's only been about 60 miles since the job.
but knowing this might help.it also smell's. but i've been driving like a turtle.
1 good thing is my MPG has gone up.
so either my driving is less agressive, or i have found a better gas station with less ethanol
i haven't had time, to drop the camera's off.
but when i do, i'll email them to some one. & they can post them.
gorilla
 

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I have a question but I'm not trying to be an *** and appreciate you creating a thread about your experience with this setup. However, you have how much $$ into your truck and you can't buy a digital camera? You can get some on the cheap for far less than almost any mod you've done to the truck. I'm just curious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
hi, i edited my 1st post because, it just wasn't right.
pictures on a digital camera for whom? & for what reason.
i can see if you have a problem, & need help so you post your issue.
to show people what issue you have.
but posting all my up-grades 1 would think many would think it's showing off.

i don't know how to post pictures. i've tried.
only because people wanted to see them.
so i have asked a couple of people to post them. so there posted.
picture's of my tundra, & pictures of the 07 south florida meet, that were deleted.
and the member who posted them, wouldn't respond, nor re-post them.
so a couple of good guy's helped post them for me.
we have several digital camera's, & video recorder's.
but i like to keep it as simple as possible.
and those camera's aren't simple to use.
and posting pictures i just can't figure it out.
thats why i ask other's to do me a favor & post them.
as far as my mod's, there in place. so it's useless to post them.
what does it show?
is it proof you are looking for?
i don't post BS!
i'm here to help when i can and also get help & infomation.
gorilla
 

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Thread moved to Brakes forum. :)
 

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I think that I'm about to order a set of these rotors for my truck along with the goodridge ss brake lines. Amazon has the best deal on both of them that I can find right now. I'll just keep the performance friction carbon metallic pads on since they're new and stop great.
 

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I have EBC Dimpled rotors on my Corolla along with Hawk HPS Pads. Stops on a dime.
 

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I just ordered the ebc slotted rotors for my tundra from summit racing. I hope to have them soon so when I do the struts & shocks I'll just go ahead and swap them on at the same time.
 
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