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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I apologize if this has been asked/discussed before, but my search strings did not resolve my question.

I have a 2010 DBC with the factory tow package (massive hitch). When I went to install my ball mount I noticed the hole for the 5/8" pin is right behind the opening in the hitch, not back several inches like I have had on other vehicles (actually in front of the chain hooks).

This makes the ball mount jut WAAAAAY out behind the vehicle (shin buster for sure). I went to Northern to see if any ball mounts had a pin hole closer to the front of the mount, but all seemed pretty standard.

Has anyone re-drilled a ball mount so that it could be flush with the hitch opening with the pin inserted? Would this cause the integrity of the ball mount to lesson?

Are there advantages to having the ball mount stick way out that I am missing? (my 6" drop is so far out the trailer wiring harness will not reach the receptacle).

For what its worth, I will mostly be pulling a 5x8 utility trailer w/an ATV on it - a 6" drop does make the ATV trailer level, but seem like alot of drop?? Should I go 4" instead?

Thanks!!
Jack
 

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If you have a heavy trailer, I would drill another hole to get the weight closer to the axle. If u don't like it, you could always use the original hole. And be sure to take pics.
 

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You can find shorter shanks, you just need to look around a little. I have one that only sticks out 4 inches or so. I would not recomment drilling the hitch. If you get desperate, I might consider drilling a new hole in the shank.
 

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You can find shorter shanks, you just need to look around a little. I have one that only sticks out 4 inches or so. I would not recomment drilling the hitch. If you get desperate, I might consider drilling a new hole in the shank.
Agree. Drill shank, not hitch or just find something different that will work for you.
 

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I'm having a problem with my Toyota factory hitch as well, but not with the pin hole location rather the thickness. I've been running an Anderson Rapid Hitch with the two 'keyed alike' pins for the past 3 trucks - Ford and Chevy - but the upper shorter pin holding the hitch into the receiver isn't long enough on the Toyota receiver. Seems like the Toyota receiver is thicker which is better, but I'm having to use a regular pin with a cotter pin which is wide open for theft. What do you think about grinding down the receiver just a touch so the two heads of the pin come together enough to lock in? Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm having a problem with my Toyota factory hitch as well, but not with the pin hole location rather the thickness. I've been running an Anderson Rapid Hitch with the two 'keyed alike' pins for the past 3 trucks - Ford and Chevy - but the upper shorter pin holding the hitch into the receiver isn't long enough on the Toyota receiver. Seems like the Toyota receiver is thicker which is better, but I'm having to use a regular pin with a cotter pin which is wide open for theft. What do you think about grinding down the receiver just a touch so the two heads of the pin come together enough to lock in? Greg
I did find lots of insight on this in my searches - apparently Toyota is using a beefier Class V hitch with makes the outside walls thicker. I measured mine tonight by marking a dowel on each side - 2 3/4 outside diameter. My crappy masterlock locking pin is rusted and crappy looking after 6 years on the 2004 Tundra, so I think I am going to upgrade to this:

Class V Receiver/5/8" Coupler Latch Lock 2 Pack

BTW, yes - I was talking about drilling a new 5/8" hole in the shank of the ball mount, not in the hitch itself.

Thanks!

Jack
 

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Thanks for the input, will be ordering shortly... Forty bucks is cheaper than having the $230 hitch swiped! Thanks again... Greg
 
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