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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So let me preface this conversation with the fact that I do not intend on lifting the rear of the truck by putting any blocks in.

However, I would like to lift the front up just a tad to take some of the rake out.

My plan is to install a 2" spacer above the struts so that I can maintain a quality ride, but give just a "little" bit of lift to more-or-less level the truck out.

I've seen that Fat Bob's sells some Aluminum 2" spacers for about $90 bucks:



My question is about the design of the aluminum spacers. It appears that the Tundra strut would have to be rotated about 45* so that the struts will align up with the slots in the aluminum spacer slots.
Is this possible?
Has anybody else used this aluminum spacer successfully?


As well, I see that Fat Bob's has the diff drop kits for about $21 bucks:



Has anybody used this kit successfully?
If so, what are your comments on this kit?
 

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The spacer accounts for the rotation of the strut. The strut in the Tundra can only be installed one way; the spacer is milled with this in mind.

Many people are using aluminum spacers with no issues. Low Range Off Road sells a 3" spacer lift that is made out of aluminum, and I haven't heard of anyone with issues. That spacer looks like it was milled by LOR and sold to Fat Bobs to be sold under their name. The spacer looks exactly like the LOR one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The spacer accounts for the rotation of the strut. The strut in the Tundra can only be installed one way; the spacer is milled with this in mind.

Many people are using aluminum spacers with no issues. Low Range Off Road sells a 3" spacer lift that is made out of aluminum, and I haven't heard of anyone with issues. That spacer looks like it was milled by LOR and sold to Fat Bobs to be sold under their name. The spacer looks exactly like the LOR one.

interesting analysis on the rotation of the strut.

So, how about these very common spacers that don't appear to have the rotation built in? How do these work?

 

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That's exactly what I want to do, slightly raise the front and remove the rake. Kindly keep us posted - is this doable by yourself in the driveway or will you have to take it to a shop?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That's exactly what I want to do, slightly raise the front and remove the rake. Kindly keep us posted - is this doable by yourself in the driveway or will you have to take it to a shop?
This is definitely doable in the garage or in the driveway. Check out the videos for the installation of other similar kits, it can be done very quickly in your driveway.

My issue is with the design, and how it differs from other designs......
 

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interesting analysis on the rotation of the strut.

So, how about these very common spacers that don't appear to have the rotation built in? How do these work?

They work the same way. The only difference is that they don't rotate the strut. The studs on the spacer are still "keyed" the same as the stock strut, and like the stock strut, and the LRO spacers, these will only install one way. You can't mess up the install, and you can't go wrong whether you go the with Fat Bobs (LRO), Low Range, or with the Ready Lift that you have pictured above. Both types of spacer keep the stock strut mounting geometry, only they add 3" to the top. Everything else relative to the strut mounting in the cup stays the same.
 

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So let me preface this conversation with the fact that I do not intend on lifting the rear of the truck by putting any blocks in.

However, I would like to lift the front up just a tad to take some of the rake out.

My plan is to install a 2" spacer above the struts so that I can maintain a quality ride, but give just a "little" bit of lift to more-or-less level the truck out.

I've seen that Fat Bob's sells some Aluminum 2" spacers for about $90 bucks:



My question is about the design of the aluminum spacers. It appears that the Tundra strut would have to be rotated about 45* so that the struts will align up with the slots in the aluminum spacer slots.
Is this possible?
Has anybody else used this aluminum spacer successfully?


As well, I see that Fat Bob's has the diff drop kits for about $21 bucks:



Has anybody used this kit successfully?
If so, what are your comments on this kit?
You may to ask FB's if they coat their parts..... I believe LRO uses zinc chromate
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So one more question about these LRO 2" spacers;

Are these in-fact 2" spacers, and if so, how much "real" lift does one get from these?




The reason I ask is because of the geometry of the IFS setup. A 2" spacer may give more than 2" of lift in actuality......
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wow, I just moved from "Rookie" to "Lurking member", must be moving up in the world :)
 

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I have used these on my previous tundra and well as my current one. No problems at all however I do recommend going with 2.5 or 2.75" if they have them. The 2" spacers will not give you 100% leveling if thats what you are looking for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have used these on my previous tundra and well as my current one. No problems at all however I do recommend going with 2.5 or 2.75" if they have them. The 2" spacers will not give you 100% leveling if thats what you are looking for.
Thank you for the feedback.

Actually, I don't mind a "little" bit of rake, what is of most importance is that the "CV Joint boot fins" are not constantly touching under normal operation or highway driving.



From what I have seen (and experienced), when these boot fins touch for extended periods of time, they will wear groves into the rubber where they are touching. After a given period of time the rubber breaks down and the boots start cracking, slinging grease; small rocks, water and dirt gets into the boots and ruins the CV joint. This is something I would like to avoid.

So, having a little bit of rake is just fine, it just a little too much right now.


Anybody have any pics of what their half-shafts look like before and after with these type of spacers, or other types of spacers?
 

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I can get some picture for you tonight. I have the 3" lift with a 1" front diff drop installed. Honestly my CV boots a barely good for my liking. I'll snap a few pictures tonight so you can check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I can get some picture for you tonight. I have the 3" lift with a 1" front diff drop installed. Honestly my CV boots a barely good for my liking. I'll snap a few pictures tonight so you can check it out.
Thank you very much, I appreciate your time to help a fellow owner out.
I've turned wrenches for many years now, and I've become all about doing it nearly perfect the 1st time around.......



edit:

I found an interesting article on the Tundra Leveling Kits and there have been quite a few comments related to this article.
The article talks about the pros and cons of some of the more popular kits, and why people lift them. What I find the most useful are the folks comments below the article:

Click on the pic for the article:

 

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Crap! I got super busy tonight (wife and I are renovating our guest bathroom) and forgot. I'll have to grab the pictures for you in the AM. Sorry!
 

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I got a pretty good shot of the lower CV, but the camera focused on the bump stop when I tried to ge a shot of the upper. None of the lower CV joint's fins are touching, and only the upper most fin on the upper CV is touching, but not with a lot of pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I got a pretty good shot of the lower CV, but the camera focused on the bump stop when I tried to ge a shot of the upper. None of the lower CV joint's fins are touching, and only the upper most fin on the upper CV is touching, but not with a lot of pressure.
Cool, thanks for the pics.

So, I assume that these two pictures are with the truck in the resting position, meaning, the truck is not flexed any at this time?

If this is the case, have your done the mod of "re-clamping" your boots to prevent the common boot leakage issue when Tundra's are lifted?
 

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Cool, thanks for the pics.

So, I assume that these two pictures are with the truck in the resting position, meaning, the truck is not flexed any at this time?

If this is the case, have your done the mod of "re-clamping" your boots to prevent the common boot leakage issue when Tundra's are lifted?
Can you explain?

-rockstate
 
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