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Hello everyone, this is my first post here so forgive me if I am doing something wrong.
This was performed on a 2002 Toyota Tundra TRD Offroad with 5100 Bilsteins.
There is a quite popular inner CV boot mod pertaining to first-gen tundra 4wd trucks and the same model year sequoias. If you have just installed a lift you most likely (depending on the height) have to replace your inner CV boot due to the increased angle of the CV axle. I have decided to create a detailed list of materials I used as well as some step by step instructions. I am currently trying to create a YouTube video showing me installing and the finished product. I will attach pics to this post. Below are instructions regarding how I did this mod as well as a lot of other threads' information. There are some good YouTube vids on getting your CV axle out. The total cost of this mod was about $60 and 5 hours of time.
Key Materials I Used:
1. EMPI Bates Porsche 930 CV Joint Boot (x2)
(Part #: MRB869306). Purchased from Kartek Offroad. $19 Each
2. Worm Style Stainless Steel Hose Clamp 1 3/4"- 2 3/4" (x4)
(Part #: 202309380). Purchased from Home Depot.
3. Worm Style Stainless Steel Hose Clamp 3/4"- 1 3/4" (x4)
(Part #: 202309386). Purchased from Home Depot.
4. Valvoline Full Synthetic Grease 16oz (x1)
(Part #: VV986). Purchased from Advance Auto Parts.
Specialty Tools:
1. 35mm or 36mm socket to break loose hub axle nut.
2. Snap-ring plyers
3. Absence of wife.
4. Presence of dog.
Other tools:
1. 14mm, 17mm wrenches, and sockets.
2. Basic tools.
3. Pry bar or crowbar.
4. Torque Wrench.
Instructions:
Act 1: CV Axle removal
1. Remove the Wheel.
2. Remove dust cap from the center hub using a flat head screwdriver.
3. Remove cotter pin and retaining cap.
4. Remove axle nut with 35mm or 36mm socket and breaker bar. Place a screwdriver in the brake rotor next to the brake caliper to prevent the hub from moving.
5. Remove brake rotor and remove brake caliper using a 17mm socket or wrench and place to the side.
6. Remove the 4 bolts from the hub to the lower control arm using a 14mm socket. Located underneath the hub.
7. Using a soft hammer, break loose the CV axle from the hub by hitting or pushing it through towards the engine.
8. Break loose the hub from the lower control arm by lifting firmly or hitting with a hammer if you have a lot of rust.
9. Pull the hub towards yourself while pushing the CV axle towards the engine until it comes out and rest it upon the lower control arm.
10. Move the hub/spindle towards the bed and out of the way.
11. Using a crowbar or pry bar, pry between the front diff and the CV joint. It is held in by a snap ring and will require some force. Make sure you get your prying device as far in as you can between the surfaces as to get the axle coming straight out.
12. Once popped out, gently pull out axle while supporting both CV joints.
13. If you see fluid coming out of the front differential, that is normal and you should make sure you top it off if a lot comes out.
Act 2: Boot replacement
1. While supporting CV axle in a vice, cut off old boot using a utility knife.
2. Either cut off or pry off old OEM clamps.
3. Wipe away as much grease as possible to reveal a snap ring within the CV joint.
4. Using the snap ring plyers, open the snap ring while simultaneously gently pulling the CV joint off of the axle.
5. Using dish soap and water only, clean out as much old grease from the CV joint.
6. Pack in new grease. I used about 8oz for one CV joint.
7. Assemble hose clamps by combining two of the same size to create a larger hose clamp with worm screws opposing each other 180 degrees apart (to balance the shaft).
8. Slide on the smallest hose clamps onto the CV axle.
9. Slide on new Kartek boot into the groove of the old boot.
10. Secure the small the end of the boot with the hose clamps you already slid on (tighten to where you can barely spin them over the boot as to not split the boot).
11. With the newly packed CV joint, simply slide it on the axle and make sure it is secure within the snap ring groove (it should be able to move back and forth a couple of inches, that is normal. Just make sure it won't come off).
12. Slide the large end of the boot onto the large part of the CV joint, not the OEM groove, it won't fit (it will be obvious where to put the large end of the boot).
13. Secure with the larger hose clamps. Again, with worm gears opposed 180 degrees from each other. Do not overtighten, but make sure it does not slide.
14. Double-check your work and make sure the joint does not come off or boot slides around off of mounting points.
15. Have a drink of your preferred beverage and repair any wounds necessary.
Act 3: Re-Assembly
1. Re-insert CV axle into the front differential by supporting the inner CV joint and rotating to line the splines up correctly. Using the "knee method" (example if you were replacing the driver side boot), while lying on the ground, support the inner CV joint with your left hand, and keeping the entire axle straight, place your right hand on the opposite end of CV axle and use your knee to "hammer" the axle into the differential (if you don't use the "knee method" just make sure you keep the axle straight upon re-installment and press in firmly).
2. Re-insert outer end of CV joint into the hub/spindle.
3. Place hub onto the 4 bolt mounts using the "dowels" as a guide.
4. Screw-in bolts using 14mm socket and torque to 60 ft-lbs. (Anti-seize is optional)
5. Re-install brake rotor.
6. Re-install brake caliper using 17mm wrench and/or socket. Torque to "pretty freaking tight" (if anyone knows the torque spec please feel free to enlighten us).
7. Thread on the axle nut. Place a screwdriver in the brake rotor to prevent the hub from moving. The torque spec is around 200+ and I did not have a torque wrench that went that high so I just put my body into it using the breaker bar and the 36mm socket. REMOVE SCREWDRIVER.
8. Insert retaining nut and cotter pin.
9. Re-install dust cap.
10. Re-install wheel. (I have aluminum wheels, so I torqued mine to 97 ft-lbs)
11. Have another preferred beverage.
12. Take for a test drive and listen carefully for either humming or knocking.
Please let me know if you have any questions. Below are some pics of the boot on the joint.
Since I just did this yesterday, I will update this thread in a couple of months or if something goes wrong.
Thank you
![152992]()
![152990]()
![152991]()
This was performed on a 2002 Toyota Tundra TRD Offroad with 5100 Bilsteins.
There is a quite popular inner CV boot mod pertaining to first-gen tundra 4wd trucks and the same model year sequoias. If you have just installed a lift you most likely (depending on the height) have to replace your inner CV boot due to the increased angle of the CV axle. I have decided to create a detailed list of materials I used as well as some step by step instructions. I am currently trying to create a YouTube video showing me installing and the finished product. I will attach pics to this post. Below are instructions regarding how I did this mod as well as a lot of other threads' information. There are some good YouTube vids on getting your CV axle out. The total cost of this mod was about $60 and 5 hours of time.
Key Materials I Used:
1. EMPI Bates Porsche 930 CV Joint Boot (x2)
(Part #: MRB869306). Purchased from Kartek Offroad. $19 Each
2. Worm Style Stainless Steel Hose Clamp 1 3/4"- 2 3/4" (x4)
(Part #: 202309380). Purchased from Home Depot.
3. Worm Style Stainless Steel Hose Clamp 3/4"- 1 3/4" (x4)
(Part #: 202309386). Purchased from Home Depot.
4. Valvoline Full Synthetic Grease 16oz (x1)
(Part #: VV986). Purchased from Advance Auto Parts.
Specialty Tools:
1. 35mm or 36mm socket to break loose hub axle nut.
2. Snap-ring plyers
3. Absence of wife.
4. Presence of dog.
Other tools:
1. 14mm, 17mm wrenches, and sockets.
2. Basic tools.
3. Pry bar or crowbar.
4. Torque Wrench.
Instructions:
Act 1: CV Axle removal
1. Remove the Wheel.
2. Remove dust cap from the center hub using a flat head screwdriver.
3. Remove cotter pin and retaining cap.
4. Remove axle nut with 35mm or 36mm socket and breaker bar. Place a screwdriver in the brake rotor next to the brake caliper to prevent the hub from moving.
5. Remove brake rotor and remove brake caliper using a 17mm socket or wrench and place to the side.
6. Remove the 4 bolts from the hub to the lower control arm using a 14mm socket. Located underneath the hub.
7. Using a soft hammer, break loose the CV axle from the hub by hitting or pushing it through towards the engine.
8. Break loose the hub from the lower control arm by lifting firmly or hitting with a hammer if you have a lot of rust.
9. Pull the hub towards yourself while pushing the CV axle towards the engine until it comes out and rest it upon the lower control arm.
10. Move the hub/spindle towards the bed and out of the way.
11. Using a crowbar or pry bar, pry between the front diff and the CV joint. It is held in by a snap ring and will require some force. Make sure you get your prying device as far in as you can between the surfaces as to get the axle coming straight out.
12. Once popped out, gently pull out axle while supporting both CV joints.
13. If you see fluid coming out of the front differential, that is normal and you should make sure you top it off if a lot comes out.
Act 2: Boot replacement
1. While supporting CV axle in a vice, cut off old boot using a utility knife.
2. Either cut off or pry off old OEM clamps.
3. Wipe away as much grease as possible to reveal a snap ring within the CV joint.
4. Using the snap ring plyers, open the snap ring while simultaneously gently pulling the CV joint off of the axle.
5. Using dish soap and water only, clean out as much old grease from the CV joint.
6. Pack in new grease. I used about 8oz for one CV joint.
7. Assemble hose clamps by combining two of the same size to create a larger hose clamp with worm screws opposing each other 180 degrees apart (to balance the shaft).
8. Slide on the smallest hose clamps onto the CV axle.
9. Slide on new Kartek boot into the groove of the old boot.
10. Secure the small the end of the boot with the hose clamps you already slid on (tighten to where you can barely spin them over the boot as to not split the boot).
11. With the newly packed CV joint, simply slide it on the axle and make sure it is secure within the snap ring groove (it should be able to move back and forth a couple of inches, that is normal. Just make sure it won't come off).
12. Slide the large end of the boot onto the large part of the CV joint, not the OEM groove, it won't fit (it will be obvious where to put the large end of the boot).
13. Secure with the larger hose clamps. Again, with worm gears opposed 180 degrees from each other. Do not overtighten, but make sure it does not slide.
14. Double-check your work and make sure the joint does not come off or boot slides around off of mounting points.
15. Have a drink of your preferred beverage and repair any wounds necessary.
Act 3: Re-Assembly
1. Re-insert CV axle into the front differential by supporting the inner CV joint and rotating to line the splines up correctly. Using the "knee method" (example if you were replacing the driver side boot), while lying on the ground, support the inner CV joint with your left hand, and keeping the entire axle straight, place your right hand on the opposite end of CV axle and use your knee to "hammer" the axle into the differential (if you don't use the "knee method" just make sure you keep the axle straight upon re-installment and press in firmly).
2. Re-insert outer end of CV joint into the hub/spindle.
3. Place hub onto the 4 bolt mounts using the "dowels" as a guide.
4. Screw-in bolts using 14mm socket and torque to 60 ft-lbs. (Anti-seize is optional)
5. Re-install brake rotor.
6. Re-install brake caliper using 17mm wrench and/or socket. Torque to "pretty freaking tight" (if anyone knows the torque spec please feel free to enlighten us).
7. Thread on the axle nut. Place a screwdriver in the brake rotor to prevent the hub from moving. The torque spec is around 200+ and I did not have a torque wrench that went that high so I just put my body into it using the breaker bar and the 36mm socket. REMOVE SCREWDRIVER.
8. Insert retaining nut and cotter pin.
9. Re-install dust cap.
10. Re-install wheel. (I have aluminum wheels, so I torqued mine to 97 ft-lbs)
11. Have another preferred beverage.
12. Take for a test drive and listen carefully for either humming or knocking.
Please let me know if you have any questions. Below are some pics of the boot on the joint.
Since I just did this yesterday, I will update this thread in a couple of months or if something goes wrong.
Thank you
