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First Oil change. DIY or Take to dealer?

2229 Views 22 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  Henry T
I've been reading up on what you have to go through to change the oil and it sounds like a huge messy PITA!. I never had to change the oil on my 08 because it was a lease and included a maintenance deal. My 10 I own and it does not.

According to the little maint. booklet, the first oil change should be at 2500miles.

Should I just let the dealer handle it and if so do you know about what they will charge me or should I try it myself? I read a few write-ups and it sounds pretty scary. Easy to over tighten the oil filter cap and put hairline cracks in it, not getting the o-rings on justs right and risk leaking all your oil out, etc. Geez!

Thanks!
B.
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It’s really not that hard, it is just time consuming the first the time. The skid plate is a bit difficult the first time and the filter housing and the “spout” you need to use to drain it.

Get a purolator oil filter; even if you don’t like the filters it is worth it to get the “screw in” oil drain tool, rather than the one you have to jam in. Plus you can attach some cheap hose to the filter drain “thingy” I can’t remember the name. Make sure you have the proper size for oil filter wrench too.

Lay some cardboard down just in case. If you want to make the job easier next time get a Fumoto valve, you will dig it.

Just take your time and plan for it to take up some time your first time. Oh yea, use a couple of 2X6 to drive the front tires on; an inch and half makes all the difference in the world.
Your answer depends a bit on the dealer. There could be some advantages to having them do the first one and check everything over.
Changing your own isn't that much of a big deal if you have the right tools. The first time will be the worst because you'll have to figure out all the tricks to make it easier.
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The Tundra oil filter is a little messy and you got some good advice above especially for your first time (being an Tundra oil change cherry).

Do your own Tundra oil change and become a real man (getting all dirty & etc) ... lol ... j/k ... :D

On my present Tacoma ... I actually look forward to oil changes as they are soooo easy now. ... :D

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I'd say it's worth doing it at the dealer the first time. That filter and that oil pan nut could be on there fairly tight from the factory. Have the dealer do it, request he hand-tighten the oil pan nut. do it yourself from thereon in. Be ready with receipts if you have a power train warranty issue, as I suspect showing up to make a warranty claim with no record of your truck having ever been in for service could be a bit difficult.
The receipts could be an issue if you don't have them on DIY maintenance. I've always kept receipts for oil, filters, (OEM only) and drain plug gaskets. JMHO and YMMV I supply my own oil and filters and have the dealer do it.
I got "free" oil-changes with my deal.Dealership did two,5000 and 10,000 miles.I'm doin' 'em myself from now on though.I'll be ordering a Fumoto drain-valve in a month or so.Already got a oil-filter tool (the US made, metal one) Been supplying the oil for the dealer anyway(Amsoil 0-20)I can buy Wix Filters 10 minutes up the road for $5.00 or so.Go FlamesGo, what's the screw-in oil-drain tool you mentioned?
First oil change is 2500 miles only if you use E85 fuel more than 50% of the time.
My first oil change was at 5,000. I then switched to amsoil 0w-20 and wix filter. If I were you I would go with a synthetic oil, can go longer between oil changes. Just got to change filter out every 5,000. By the way what engine do you have? If you have the 4.6 then take to dealer, cause I heard of problems with metal shavings in it.
If the OP is not experienced and by his Fearful, its a "HUGE PITA" outlook I say this guy should not try it, will probably screw something up.

Again, some people have no business turning wrenches. Its not meant as a slight just the truth. I'm sure there are other areas these people excel in.
Thanks for all the info guys!. Also about confirming that I can wait now till 5000. I wanted to switch to Synthetic anyway but figured at 2500 I would do regular oil and then let the next one be Synth from then on.

So, Im going to wait till 5k and go full Synth.

I would not say I am not mechanically inclined. I know my way around engines, etc and have always changed the oil on my own vehicles. I was just recently reading up on some of the issues with the tundra's oil change requiring special tools, etc and I thought maybe this is going to be a PITA. Not difficult but would have me cursing up a storm. LOL!.

I'll get the right tools so that when I hit 5k I'll be ready.

Thanks again guys!
B.
Do the 1st oil change at 1000 mi...then 5k after that with full syn oil. Its easy once you do it the 1st time. Read the thread about mods, trap door in the skid plate, Fumoto drain valve, etc and you will have NO problems doing it!
I would have thought that you would get at least the first one for free at the dealership. It doesnt cost them much and it gets you introduced to their service department.
There are advantages to getting the first one done there, incase things were over tightened at the factory, shavings in the 4.6 etc, especially as it has their name on it so if anything IS amiss, it wont get blamed on you.

On the flip side, the guy doing the oil change is likely going to be the bottom of the food chain at the service department. He will be the newest, least experienced guy, as the better guys are on more technical jobs. That's why so many guys here do their own.
Some dealers will do the 1st oil change free if it is where you bought the truck. If you insist on the Toyota 0W20 synthetic oil, it will save you some bucks on that 1st time.

Why would anyone want to go away from a factory oil filter?
What size oil filter wrench for the 5.7 2010 tundra?
Some dealers will do the 1st oil change free if it is where you bought the truck. If you insist on the Toyota 0W20 synthetic oil, it will save you some bucks on that 1st time.

Why would anyone want to go away from a factory oil filter?
Have to agree. Makes no sense its the best bet for the job. Some folks like to mod anything. Just did my oil yesterday took about 90 mins. I go slow and am meticulous. Went like butter, only spilled about 2 oz. Poured in 7.5 quarts Mobile 1 0W-20, new factory filter and O rings. Good to go for another 5,000 miles :tu:

Its not that the skid plate is so hard to remove, it's just hard doing it lying under the truck.
If you decide to have the dealer do it or another shop, ALWAYS check to make sure they put oil back in it and the drain plug is in! Nothing against lube techs. but these guys are not the most experienced and have a tedious job, they "zone out" on ocassion and do some bone headed things, like forgetting to but new oil in, replacing the drain plug, putting the oil cap back on etc. :)
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