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Discussion Starter #1
I just spent the better part of the day painting the frame on the '04 DC with POR-15. I decided to go with a sprayer, instead of the brush approach. Here's some pointers, if anyone is interested:

Prep:

  1. First step was to clean the garage out really good (so I could fit the silly thing mostly in the garage.) I put down a 12x16 blue tarp on the garage floor and used masking tape to hold it in place. That actually worked very well, which surprised me. I didn't think he masking tape would hold to the concrete.
  2. Jacked up the truck; set it on stands and pulled all five tires. I also dropped the skid plate. I used some masking tape around the turnbuckle adjuster in the middle of the parking brake cable and over the parking break actuators, as well..
  3. I decided to mask off the ENTIRE truck, because I didn't want any POR-15 overspray gettin on the finish. I used a product called "Shark skin" that I bought at a local auto body supply store. This is a 5-mil plastic film, 16 feet wide, that comes in a 350 foot roll. I used two separate pieces: one over the cab, which I draped down between the cab and box, and then taped to the underside of the body. Then I used a second piece on the box. Two more around the nerf bars, and the truck was ready. The Shark Skin worked very well, by the way - not a drop of overspray on the paint. (Whew..)
  4. I hit some of the really rusty areas with a wire brush in my drill. But that was about it for prepping the underside.
Personal Protection:

If you've ever used POR-15 before, you know its pretty nasty stuff. If you get it on your skin, its tough to get off. And if it dries on you, fuhgettaboudit. Its stayin' for a while. So, I wore an old pair of jeans and an old, long-sleeve tee shirt (both of which got tossed when I finished). I also used a respirator with an organic filter cartridge and a petroleum-particulate pre-filter. That worked very well. In the hour or more I was spraying the truck, I never once smelled the paint. In fact, I was shocked by the odor when I took it off afterward! I also wore a set of lab-type goggles. I wear glasses, and didn't want to risk getting POR-15 on my specs!

Shooting:

I decided to try out my new HVLP spray gun (a relatively cheap thing I bought at Home Depot). This worked pretty well. The overspray really was minimal, and setting the gun up (according to the instructions included with it) was simple. The only drawback is that this is a gravity-fed gun. So, even using the 4-oz paint cup, getting this thing into the nooks and crannies was a pain. But a little patience, and a contortionist impersonation, and I was able to get it done.

FInal Outcome:

In the end, I am happy with the way the underside came out. I wasn't doing this to make it pretty, just to keep it from rusting. Well, rusting MORE, anyway. I happened to use the gloss black POR-15, because that is what I had laying around the garage. In hindsight, I probably would have gone with the "semi-gloss", which has more of a flat finish to it. Again, its only under the rig, so its not a bit deal.

Well, thanks for reading. I know this isn't anything ground breaking, but I always feel a sense of accomplishment after I do a job like this. And the wife and daughters really don't care to hear me bragging on my underside paint job!
 

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Congratulations, sounds like you did a thorough and efficient job, post a pic or two once the smell goes away if you would, I ,being male, would be interested in seeing it (as well as reading about it) I've found that my wife tries to show some care when I show my projects but quickly develops that glassy stare, in her defense I do the same with some of "her stuff" so I guess it's just the way.
 

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Agreed, would like to see some pictures. Did you take any of the masking part of the job? As far as I am concerned that is the real work. Prep usually is... painting is almost fun after that.

It will be interesting to see how it holds up over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No, I didn't think to take any pics while I was in the middle of things. :(

I will take a couple of shots tomorrow morning and post the results. I didn't think to take any "before" pics, either.

I've used POR-15 in the past, and it usually holds up very well...
 

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I've also gotten good results with POR "Metal Ready" zinc phosphate solution on the rust, it does a nice job of chemically neutralizing the rust...especially the nasty frame weld joints.

I didn't use POR-15 paint last time around, just sprayed with semi-flat black Krylon rust-tough and it held up well last Winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The Por Process includes cleaning with Marine Clean followed by Metal Ready. You didn't mention these steps?
My understanding was that you didn't need to use the Marine Clean or Metal Ready unless you were treating bare metal. I didn't bring any of the frame down to bare metal, so I didn't use those products.

Where there was any grease residue, I just cleaned the frame with a bit of pain thinner, then let it air dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK, here are the pics I promised:

This is the right-side outer frame rail, with a shot of the underside of the cab floor.


Left, rear frame, taken thru rear tire opening:


A shot from the rear of the truck, looking forward:


And a shot of the right, inner frame taken from behind. The big, blank section in the lower right of the photo may have been caused when I removed the evidence of a non-Toyota vehicle, possibly sitting in my garage! (I don't wanna get kicked outta the club, or anything!):



So, from taking these photos this morning, I noticed I have some touch up to do. I missed one half of the front of the differential/axel housing; the back half of the elft lower A-arms and the inside of the right rear frame and trailer hitch. The lesson I learned here is that, when painting under the frame, its probably best to have a pattern and stick with it. I was jumping all over the place: from front to back and side to side. I should have gone one section at a time, left to right, or something like that.

I'll just use a brush to touch up the bits I missed.

Incidentally, I probably should have done a second coat, as well. In answer to a previous question, I only used about 8 oz of POR-15 for this. That was the amount before thinning with POR-15 Solvent - which is done to 10%. So, I used about 8.8 Oz total. That *might* be too thin, but I'm not sure. What do y'all think??



 

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Did you paint over the bolt threads and brake/gas lines? I've been thinking about doing the same with POR or rust bullet but with a brush instead of spraying.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Did you paint over the bolt threads and brake/gas lines? I've been thinking about doing the same with POR or rust bullet but with a brush instead of spraying.
I tried to stay away from painting any bolts or other moving parts (didn't touch the drive shaft, for instance). I masked off the parking brake actuators outside the drums, and wrapped the parking break adjuster turnbuckle with masking tape, as well. I also TRIED to stay away from the diff drain/fill plugs in the rear. Honestly, if I did hit those a little, I don't think I'd have any trouble breaking them free. But, better safe than sorry.

The only problem I encountered during this project was getting the driver's front tire back on. Seems the nice folks at my local Firestone shop, where I had the safety inspection done a few months back, managed to cross thread three out of the six damn studs. Plus, they either lost or severely mangled one of the lug nuts, because there was a shiny new one on there. I was able to run a die (12.5 x 1.50) down the munged up studs, and a tap thru the lug nuts, and they all went back on nicely. I'll double-check them in a week or so, to make sure they aren't loosening themselves up. If they are, I will need to get the studs replaced. Ugh.
 

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Awesome job Mr. Beanley!! :thumb: Point sent.
 
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