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Even using socket on large ratchet can't budge them. Sprayed some penetrating oil and nothing. Can I heat them up with a propane torch, or will this cause damage? Might try a cheater bar as well.
 

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I used cheater bar, but will not do it second time, as once i had oil drain bolt split in half in my KTM. It was faulty design(hollow bolt, too much metal removed). Cheater bar works all the time - either the bolt will loosen up or you'll have a crack in the case :( try these cans of liquid gas from auto parts store - they freeze the bolt. Get the case worm/hot and freeze the bolt. That action will make bolt contract and loosen up.
I also used cheater bar on my oxygen sensor and ended up f****g up the threads even though i sprayed PB blaster, warmed it up etc. It almost forced me to remove headers to fix it ( i was able to get 1.5xM18 thread tap to fix it). Lesson learned - BE CAREFUL WITH CHEATER BAR :beer:
 

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Even using socket on large ratchet can't budge them. Sprayed some penetrating oil and nothing. Can I heat them up with a propane torch, or will this cause damage? Might try a cheater bar as well.
Don't give up on the penetrating oil just yet; apply, lightly hit the bolt with a hammer a few times and repeat twice a day for 2-3 days.

Then, use a large rachet or breaker bar. Make sure to rock the rachet/bar in BOTH directions; forward to try and loosen, then slightly in reverse to break the rust bond.

I had the same issue with my front 02 sensors, so I just applied penetrant several times during the week and wrenched them with an 18" 1/2 flex rachet and the 02 sensor socket to get it removed (while the pipes were cold obviously).

I prefer to use Mopar Rust Penetrant from the Dodge Dealership; just as good as PB Blaster, but comes out with a straw as a foam and liquifies. Much more controlled in application than PB Blaster.
 

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My front fill plug came out easily but the drain was impossible. I ended up taking it to a dealership to have it done:

Tundra Fuel Economy: General Maintenance

I wish I had thought about freezing - might have saved me some cash.
 

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Well freezing really works. When i was rebuilding my jetski water pump housing i used dremel to grind and break up the old bearing. New one would only go in with a press - $75 to do it - i say screw that, put the new bearing in the freezer overnight, heated up the housing with halogen light for 2 hours and it just dropped right in. Before heating/freezing i tried and it wouldn't go in. So heating up the case around it (without melting the rubber seals) and spraying that freezing stuff on the bolt it should come out much easier. If that doesn't help i'd bring it to dealer, because if the case splits it will cost more than diff oil change at dealer.

Welding a big nut M14+ to the bolt will make it come out, as that hex doesn't take much force to slip out. I'd just go to muffler shop and have a guy weld a nut on the hex bolt.
 

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If you dont have a torch try to use a heat gun......
 

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I used a 1/2" drive torque wrench, the long handle gave the leverage needed. Just set it to max torque and watch your knuckles....That's how I did mine. Good Luck!
 

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I used a 1/2" drive torque wrench, the long handle gave the leverage needed. Just set it to max torque and watch your knuckles....That's how I did mine. Good Luck!
That's how to take care of your tools!!:tu: Maybe you have a cheapo crappy torque wrench, but I would recommend using a cheap piece of cheater pipe rather than a $100+ torque wrench.
 

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I used a 1/2" drive torque wrench, the long handle gave the leverage needed. Just set it to max torque and watch your knuckles....That's how I did mine. Good Luck!
Mine was stripped.
 

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I sprayed mine with blaster on Wednesday and on Saturday used a 1/2" driver with the 10 mm hex socket. It was tight but I was able to get it loose. Could try tapping the driver handle with a hammer. Just make sure everything is seated tight and don't get carried away.

I'd be leary of using a torch with the drain being right close to the case seal.
 

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That's how to take care of your tools!!:tu: Maybe you have a cheapo crappy torque wrench, but I would recommend using a cheap piece of cheater pipe rather than a $100+ torque wrench.
Worked for me, it's a Craftsman. :ts:
 

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Even using socket on large ratchet can't budge them. Sprayed some penetrating oil and nothing. Can I heat them up with a propane torch, or will this cause damage? Might try a cheater bar as well.
Sledder12,

So what worked for you?
 

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use a hammer and tap on both the drain and fill plugs and they will come out easy.
 

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Heat the case, freeze the bolt, and use a long cheater bar or breaker bar. It's rare when I have to put the 3' breaker on a fill plug, but it's happened once or twice.

Keep in mind that your mechanic will do the same things we're suggesting, but potentially with less respect for your machine. Not that I'm saying your guy is a jackass or anything, just that I've known quite a few good mechanics to devolve to blunt force trauma in the face of stuck fasteners.

I wouldn't go so far as to use an impact, but I would smack the end of the breaker bar with a BFH.

-Sean
 

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1. Spray with lube.
2. Drive for half an hour to heat it up a bit.
3. Use Impact wrench.

You may strip it by using a cheater bar.
 
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