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Hey all.

I have searched on this topic several times, and found some good info. But I have a question for the experts:

First, I know it's not piston slap. I had a Mustang prior to this truck and I know what that sounds like, trust me. :)

Upon cranking, and under normal operation, I hear what I originally thought was valve tapping. Funny thing is, I could only really hear it when the windows are up. If the hood is up, you can hear the sound near the fuel rail, but it sounds normal.

is something wrong with my truck?:confused:
 

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These sounds are tough to figure out. When I first heard a tick in my Sequoia, I thought it was something terrible. After noticing the tick more when the engine was cold, and much more noticeable when driving next to a cement barrier on the freeway (with window down)...I realized it had to be a drivers side exhaust manifold (I took it off, and found a nice crack in it). When I bought the truck used, the valve train also seemed a bit louder than my 05' was...so I tried using a nice synthetic oil which really quieted things down. I'm not sure this is the same problem you are having though. You may just have to check things out one at a time to rule them out. Good luck!
 

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Hey all.

I have searched on this topic several times, and found some good info. But I have a question for the experts:

First, I know it's not piston slap. I had a Mustang prior to this truck and I know what that sounds like, trust me. :)

Upon cranking, and under normal operation, I hear what I originally thought was valve tapping. Funny thing is, I could only really hear it when the windows are up. If the hood is up, you can hear the sound near the fuel rail, but it sounds normal.

is something wrong with my truck?:confused:
If you think it's the fuel injector tick, then move the ground wire from the firewall to some other area and the sound will disappear.
 

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If it is injector tick does it also only do it when it is cold? I too have a tick only when it is cold, this winter has been worse than last. I am convinced it is a manifold crack but moving a ground wire sounds super easy to try, why would that make a tick noise? Is the wire not a good enough conductor? I got lots of heavier wire I could try too, maybe some nice fine strand 2 ought like I used to build my Bronco's battery cables.

 

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If it is injector tick does it also only do it when it is cold? I too have a tick only when it is cold, this winter has been worse than last. I am convinced it is a manifold crack but moving a ground wire sounds super easy to try, why would that make a tick noise? Is the wire not a good enough conductor? I got lots of heavier wire I could try too, maybe some nice fine strand 2 ought like I used to build my Bronco's battery cables.

I think the ground wire conducts the tick noise directly to the firewall, and thus, into the cab. Kind of like a stethoscope. The mod mounts the wire somewhere on the inner fender. It's not an issue of wire size or quality.
 

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Hey all.

I have searched on this topic several times, and found some good info. But I have a question for the experts:

First, I know it's not piston slap. I had a Mustang prior to this truck and I know what that sounds like, trust me. :)

Upon cranking, and under normal operation, I hear what I originally thought was valve tapping. Funny thing is, I could only really hear it when the windows are up. If the hood is up, you can hear the sound near the fuel rail, but it sounds normal.

is something wrong with my truck?:confused:
Have you noticed it getting louder recently. After I installed my headers, I could hear a loud ticking noise in the cab. I was sure I had a gasket leaking. After replacing the header gaskets 2 more times and doing the ground wire mod, I found the steering shaft seal at the firewall was torn. Problem solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Whew, sounds like nothing serious in either case. Can someone point me in the direction of pics on how to do the ground wire mod? Specifically, where would one place the ground wire once disconnected- and must I disconnect the negative terminal first?

Same goes for the torn steering column thing- where would I look, and how can it be fixed? I am a visual guy, so any write-ups or pics would help greatly. It's a 2001.

Thanks in advance, guys!:ts:
 

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Hopefully these help. You don't need to unhook the negative terminal to do this. I can't remember exactly where the ground was hooked up. I think it was on the bolt in the top center of photo.


The ground strap is then reconnected to one of the P/S reservoir mounting bolts.



Here's some pics of the steering shaft seal. It should be obvious if it is torn.

 

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Cool, thanks a ton, man. I'm going to try and get out there this weekend and end that annoying "tick" once and for all. When the directions for the shaft boot read, "remove the lower half", how would one actually DO that? :D
 

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Loosen the bolts in the coupler you see in the last pic. You may have to remove them, I don't remember for sure. The shaft is splined. Make sure you mark it before you pull it apart so your steering wheel is in the correct position when you put it back together. There is also a cover inside the cab where the steering shaft goes through the firewall that you have to remove so you can access the old boot and push it out.
 

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Hi I have a 2003 SR5 and mine only ticks when it acceralates uphill and turning to left while climbing up the hill or when I accerrates to higher RPMs. Any idea what is the ticking for? Appreciate for your response.
 

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this is an EXTREMELY common problem in almost all toyota trucks and suv models. i replaced mine on the tundra and the sequoia is next. took about an hour and the part cost less than 10 bucks. spent about 2 years trying to solve the problem. did a stupid dance in the front yard when it was all said and done. enjoy.
 

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this is an EXTREMELY common problem in almost all toyota trucks and suv models. i replaced mine on the tundra and the sequoia is next. took about an hour and the part cost less than 10 bucks. spent about 2 years trying to solve the problem. did a stupid dance in the front yard when it was all said and done. enjoy.
I noticed the noise when I put my headers on. It sounded exactly like an exhaust leak, but I could not find one. After replacing the header gaskets TWICE I noticed the steering seal was torn. Replaced it and the noise went away. On the plus side, I can R&R a set of headers in about 4 hours now.:D
 

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Guys you may have just made my day. I had Toyota dignose an exhaust leak for the same noise but they wanted $2k to fix. I bought headers for $500 and installed them myself, took extra time and care, all new gaskets, cleaned the heads to perfection, bolted to spec, everything...exact same noise. If it ends up just being the steering shaft boot I'll probably cry tears of joy.
 

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just did the sequoia on saturday. took a little less than an hour. no tick whatsoever. just be sure to mark on the spline and shaft so you dont screw up the steering.
 

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Just did mine last night - 2004 Sequoia. A couple of things. Both joints on the steering coupler were frozen. I was able to get the coupler loose from the steering rack input shaft by tapping on the coupler with a brass drift, but the top joint - on the sliding yoke - was more of a problem. Eventually got it off by moving my Sequoia so the split in the yoke was facing the rear and then tapping a large screwdriver blade into the split in the sliding yoke. This expanded the yoke which then came right off the splines on the steering shaft.

The sliding yoke has a wide spline so it can only be assembled one way. The lower joint - to the steering rack input shaft - needs to be match marked for reassembly.

When I moved my Sequoia to reposition the steering I took the bungee off the steering wheel and then forgot to reattach it, so my steering wheel rotated while the steering coupler was off. Had to figure out a procedure for this problem to avoid damaging the spiral cable (clock spring) in the steering wheel. Turns out the spiral cable has 2-1/2 turns of free rotation from the center position in both directions. So I positioned the steering wheel where I thought it should go and then turned the wheel very gently in both directions while feeling for any resistance. I was able to go 2-1/2 turns in both directions without resistance so this confirmed that I had the wheel correctly positioned. (If I had felt resistance at 1-1/2 turns in either direction, the wheel would have been one turn off its correct position). After reassembling everything I checked the steering wheel travel which is about 3-1/2 turns lock-to-lock, so 1-3/4 turns in each direction.

The flexible coupling has a vibration isolator - a square rubber plate - built into it that transmits the rotational motion of the steering shaft. This rubber part will likely degrade over time and so I think I'll replace the flexible coupling (45230-35090) the next time I have to replace the steering shaft seal (45292-35090). When replacing the flexible coupler, you should also replace the bolts, nuts and spring washers that attach the flexible coupler to the sliding yoke (90119-08982, 90170-08008, 94512-00800, 2 of each).

It would also not be a bad idea to replace the two clamp bolts (90080-11555) on the steering coupler as part of this job.
 

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I think guy your truck has piston not working properly it cause they do sound when they run on the road .So you should check near garage an your problem will be solve.I hope you got it
drink beer AFTER you post. SAY WHAATT???
 

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Thanks so much for this great forum and your step by step with pictures. This "exhaust leak" problem has been a nagging pain in the neck for over a year and now the problem is solved.
 

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does the tick occur during idle? I'm trying to pinpoint my ticking on a 2001 Sequoia SR5. The engine has become noticibly louder after it's warmed up. It almost sounds a little like a spark plug wire is loose and not firing properly...but it's not too loud. It doesn't seem like it would be the steering shaft boot or ground strap causing the ticking if I can hear it while the truck is parked and idling. Does this sound like it's a different type of ticking issue?
 

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as a followup to my question, it looks like I found out what the issue was...a vacuum hose from the EVAP purge (?) valve on the manifold had slipped off somehow. From what I gathered, it helps clear the charcoal canister of any leftover fuel vapors. With the hose off, it was trying to "suck" in the fuel vapors...only it was sucking in air. This in turn was also causing my CEL to go off every now and then with P0440, P0441, and P0446 codes...which I thought might have been because of a loose gas cap. Haven't cleared the codes yet, but my wife does not hear the clicking noise anymore since I re-hooked the hose up this morning.
 
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