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Discussion Starter #1
mine seems to be "sweating" fluid through the metal. is this something covered under the rust warranty on the truck. and is the rust warranty 10 years? cause mine is a 2001. any suggestions?
 

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I have not heard of this problem and it sounds very unusual. Any pics to show what you
are seeing?

I am sure if it is happening out there, someone will jump in and say...my Tundra is doing the same.
 

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mine seems to be "sweating" fluid through the metal. is this something covered under the rust warranty on the truck. and is the rust warranty 10 years? cause mine is a 2001. any suggestions?
Are you sure it is gear oil? And where exactly are you finding fluid:

  • Close to the differential?
  • Close to the wheels?
  • At the front seal on the differential?
Try washing down the axle housing with some Simple Green and then check it every couple of hours to see if it is leaking. If it is leaking gear oil you will be able to smell it (that's how I knew my seals were leaking).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
it is wet on the back of the pumpkin on the bottom (between the fill and drain plugs). i thought it could be the fill plug being loose, so i went to tighten it and noticed that it made like a sponge effect and squeezed fluid out. i saw it seep right through the metal.

and i know it's leaking from the puddles of fluid i leave everywhere.
 

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Get some new crush washers and start there. Highly doubt the actual housing is letting fluid through...
 

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Man take it into the dealership to have it checked for rust on the frame and everything. And have them look at the rear axle while they are at it.
 

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You need to provide a picture.

What I would guess at the moment is that there is rust under the paint layer, which is pretty common, and that when you tighten the loose fill plug it's pushing fluid around.

Picture, please.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i just poured in 1 full qt and it still needs more. i will get a pic for you guys later. i have to go get more fluid cause looks like it may have been a little on the dry side.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
the dealer called me back and said they wanted to look at it right away. so i will be dropping it off in the morning. worst case scenario i pay $48 diag fee.
 

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How did the gear oil inside look? I would think for there to be that kind of corrosion there must have been water inside the housing.
 

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How did the gear oil inside look? I would think for there to be that kind of corrosion there must have been water inside the housing.
^ Indeed, been in any deep mud holes??
This is what my rear differential oil looked like the first time I changed it after I got the truck. Looked like mud. Later I discovered there was no breather on top of the axle - just an open hole. I did the breather modification awhile back and think it is the best investment ever. Have not blown a seal since the modification.
 

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I have seen earlier Toyota pickup axles rust through in exactly the location being discussed here, the rear "cover" part of the housing is not nearly as thick as the top/bottom or tube portions of the housing. I ended up draining the gear oil over night, using heavy duty brake parts cleaner and then the whole POR 15 system to seal it up. I can't tell you how it lasted because the neighbor it belonged to has since sold it. I can vouch for the fact that Toyota axles can and occasionally do, rust through. Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well dealer confirmed what i was saying but has no solution at the moment. they have forwarded info and pics to Toyota to see what they say but i am not holding my breath.
 

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It really seems to me that there is water in that gear oil as it looks more like mud. If it had no breather on top of the axle water was getting in and more than likely caused it to rust thru. The damage mighta been done before you even changed it that time.

Sorry dude, really sucks.
 

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Mine is doing the same. My mechanic looked for replacing the whole dif set up and can't find a single used one around. I had my underside sprayed/coated by the dealer a couple of years ago...they said they would up my warranty for another ten years for rust....not sure if this will cover the differential or not.
 

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Here is my experience.

I did the whole JB Weld thing. For what it's worth, cold weld is a better product by far. All I had was JB Weld so that's what I used too. Mine lasted 2 months then a leak sprung in a different part of the cover... I was hoping to make it through the winter before I had to do something serious about it.

Once I saw that it had leaked through again I decided to fix it the right way. (Note: NOT THE CHEAP WAY!) As I was planning to keep my Tundra for a very long time, only has 118K.

Here's what I did;

Pulled the rear axle off the truck and stripped it bare.

Replaced the following parts;

Drum brake backing plates R+L
Parking brake bellcrank R+L
All axle seals
All wheel bearings
Both ABS rings
Both brake lines
Both wheel cylinders
Drum brake hardware
Both bump stops (mine were missing)
Diff gasket
Studs and nuts that hold the axle shafts to the housing (8 of each, 4 on either side)
Cut the old cover off the axle and prepped it for welding
Had the Barnes 4WD cover welded on
Immediately had the axle sandblasted and powdercoated matte black
While I was at the powdercoaters, I had them blast and coat what Toyota calls the "spring seat" it's the metal piece that the u-bolts go through.
While the axle was out, I replaced the studs with M10x1.25x40mm socket head cap screws grade 12.9 and red loctited them in place.
I did this because the factory studs have been known to work their way loose over time.
Got locking nuts for said cap screws
Replaced the factory axle breather for a Nissan unit (same thread) it's just a barbed fitting and won't clog like the Toyota one, but you must run a line to extend the breather where it can't get water in it
Picked up a TRD limited slip unit
In the meantime I had my rear diff sent out to ZUK (Toyota Gear Installs) and had him install the TRD LSD and also had him swap out my chewed up (horrible rust and pitting) diff housing for a nice, clean, rust-free Arizona housing
My drums and shoes were brand new so they stayed on
Replaced the bushings for the steering rack too (not that it has anything to do with the rear)
I also added a stainless steel MBRP exhaust while I was working on the truck because why not

This is what I did, I don't like to do things twice, I really went overboard on replacing EVERYTHING but it's a good feeling knowing that it was done the right way.






Any questions, feel free to ask! I'll answer to the best of my ability!

-Brian
 
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