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Hello all, I'm new to the forum having just picked up a 2000 Tundra Access Cab. I am very active on the Saabcentral forums (Frank_Drebin) for the NG900's/9³ series and have been wrenching on my Swedish PITAs for a few years now. The truck has 60k miles on it but has a cracked exhaust manifold on the driver's side. I ordered the headers last week and they should arrive today. After speaking to my local exhaust site and seeing the ridiculous Flat-Rate hrs listed on Alldata (14hrs), I have decided that I am going to tackle the job myself. After reading a lot of the posts on the site I see that I basically need to make sure I have several different sizes of 14mm sockets, wrenches and a ratcheting 14mm wrench, some PB blaster, a 12" breaker bar, 18pack of Coors Light and some patience. I'll be taking a lot of pictures and plan on doing a complete writeup when I'm done. What helpful advice or "oh by the way, make sure you..." do you guys who have done this have to offer? I am hoping to be able to reuse the existing studs. How many of you were able to do just that and who had to replace their's and why? Thanks in advance and I look forward to learning from you guys going forward.
 

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hi, it can be done.
do a search. they have all the info already posted, what you need. how long it took some people. some years are easyer than other's. but 1st soak the bolts nut's etc. for several days. before you start.
good luck. 1 guy said it took him a week. 1 guy said 4 hours.
most say 8 to 10 hours.
regards,
gorilla
 

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It took me about a day and half to do patiently. Just remeber to be careful with the 02 sensors when removing them from the stock mani's. Buy a socket wrench that the head can adjust 90 degrees, sorry I don't know the mane, but it saved me from removing the motor mount on the passender side and alot of time.

The driver side you'll have to remove the motor mounts, there's no way around that. When you remove the motor mount you won't be able to remove it right then. Move it out of the way to get to the last bolts, then remove the stock manifold, then you can remove the motor mount. And when installing the motor mount (after installing the new header), you'll have to disassemble it and build it back together in the orginal spot.

You will have to remove the dip stick and all the little heat shields on the driver side.

I left my stock studs in places. Be sure to get a quality gasket, either stock replacements, Piercy(which I'm running), and there's one more? Some say they have been using the supplied JBA gaskets for along time with no trouble and others bad. Opinions very greatly here.:D

Here's a link to the thread I posted, might help.:tu:
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/181308-jba-headers-installed/

Good luck, patient is key! You will love the new headers, makes power throughout the whole RPM range!:cool:
 

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I got a major amount of help from a friend, but the most used tool was a really long extension with a swivel socket on a large breaker bar. In a few cases, I used bolt-outs due to the bolts rounding off and an air hammer once or twice too, hahaha. I had to replace a bunch of studs and ALL the nuts, but winter salt up here is bad, so you may not run into that. Personally if I were to do it again, I would go buy all new studs and all new nuts just in case, cuz I hate running out halfway through a job to find parts. If I didn't need them I would just return them later. Soaking the nuts in advance is definitely good advice.

I didn't have to take off the driver side motor mount at all. I was able to reach all of those without issue, I did end up removing the passenger side though and lifting the engine up some so I could get to some of the nuts.

I bought all toyota gaskets, both for the engine to header connection and the header to exhaust connection. I also bought a couple extra exhaust gaskets because I disconnected the exhaust further back under the truck to make getting the manifolds out and headers in easier. I don't know if this was completely necessary, but it was recommended to me and it wasn't hard to do.

Counting running out for lunch and to buy studs/nuts, the job took us about 12 hours.
 

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I have always found that practicing up on new and creatively colorful words always helps the rust and stripped karma of vehicles. Foe example: Flying kickapow

Pat
 

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I got some things to ADD for ya.

USE THESE:Percy's High Performance - Online Store - Seal-4-Good Toyota 4.7L V-8 <<<<< And only these gaskets. I had the stock OEM Toyota Gaskets Fail TWICE. Second go around I even had a machine shop resurface the ports to 2 or 3 thousand'ths of un-even ness along the flange. They were straight and even. Ended up Finally warping the JET-HOT 1700 degree coated header flanges because of the lack of sealing by the OEM gaskets. Reason...... if you do not get them perfectly aligned.... They do not seal worth a crap on the "Raised Port" JBA headers. The ports do not Align.. and they are not meant for Aftermarket headers. There is not much sealing surface contact. ***Link provided below w/ pics*** Call And give that part # to Summit Racing. I got mine for $28... close to $29 for the pair from them.

And this thread here explains why: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/1gen-tundra/179181-jba-gasket-or-toyota-gasket/ <<<<Go to posts 22 - #24 for pictures of the headers. You will see the difference clearly.

Also get a pair of these for the collector gasket. COLLECTOR/CONNECTOR Flange Exhaust Gasket ... I had the JBA one fail as well on the very sloppy collector flange. It Split along the inner and outer edges. Proper torque was applied with a brand new Professional Series 3/8" Craftsman wrench. The gaskets are 1/8" thick and will fill a 1/16" un-even-ness along the surface of the collector.

^^^^^ But I did fill in where the original Toyota Donut gasket went with some metal filler. Its obvious why you should do it for the JBA collector gasket or REM-FLEX gasket once you have the exhaust torn apart. Pictures on the thread posted above as well.

I also used Stage 8 locking header bolts for maximum header surface clamping area on the flanges. Pictures also shown in the thread of the bolts' themselves on the headers. That's up to you if you wanna use them but keep in mind for what you are going to pay Toyota for new nuts you can have better Stage 8 bolts. I used copper anti-seize and marked the bolt/flange to make sure they aren't backing out because I didn't use the locking portion of the stage 8 bolt kit. All after doing the heat-cool down and re-torque procedures for the Percy's gaskets.

Anyhow ....HAVE FUN with yer header install.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all of the advice. I installed the headers yesterday. I found the crack in my OEM driver's side manifold right at the weld to the front exhaust port. It was about 1/4 of the way around the weld. The passenger side had the same crack forming. I'll take some pics tomorrow. It stormed like mad here yesterday so pictures of the install just didn't happen.

I took your advice and removed the motor mounts when removing the old manifolds. I was able to jack the engine up 2" or so and removing the nuts was a snap after that. Unfortunately, I had the first manifold off before I read the replies (didn't know I had any since I forgot to turn on notifications) so I used the gasket that came with my headers. Its a 3 layer gasket that appears to be metal/?fibrous material?/metal, I'm not sure what the JBA gasket looks like so I'm not sure if mine is similar. If they prove to be problematic I'll swap them out one weekend while cussing them the whole time. The flanges proved to be flat across the face and lined up perfectly with the oem studs. I had to use 4 of the supplied bolts because 4 studs backed out when removing the nuts. In all it took me about 8 hours of actual work and another 1.5hrs of running back and forth to the parts store. I ran the truck on a few errands today and didn't hear any leaks.

I took it by the Exhaust shop on my way back home and asked them which muffler would give me a nice "throaty" sound. I told him to do what he had to but to stay under $250. The guy said he'd have a look at it and let me know. 30mins later he pulls around and revs it up in front of the door to the waiting room. It had a nice deep sound to it and was exactly what I was looking for. He said it would be $30 because all he did was cut out the muffler and weld in a straight pipe. The resonator was left in to keep it from popping. I was very happy with the drive home.

[/IMG]
 

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Good to hear! Wow, straight pipes, take a vid and let us hear that!!
 

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Good to hear! Wow, straight pipes, take a vid and let us hear that!!
I seriously couldn't believe how good it sounded. It wasn't too loud either. I can honestly say that, with the resonator left on, it isn't that much louder than my Suburban 5.3L with the Flowmaster 50 and no resonator. I retained the stock pipe as well. I may go back and get a Y-pipe added to have the dual look.
 

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What brand are those headers? Mine came with the same type of gaskets. I used Fel-Pro instead.
The headers are made by CMI. Here's what their ad said about them:


  • Performance stainless steel headers
  • 1 ½” diameter primaries
  • 14 gauge mandrel bent piping
  • Made from 304 stainless steel
  • Replaces factory manifolds and connects to oem y-pipe
  • Flanges are CNC machined and 3/8” thick
  • Includes all installation hardware
  • TIG welds

All I can say so far is they matched right up to the existing holes on the heads and the Y-pipe. The welds looked clean on the outside and appear to have penetrated well. The Oxygen sensors threaded right in and were deep enough into the air stream. The included hardware was strong and extras were included. I don;t know how they compare to the more expensive ones but they were cheaper than replacement OEM manifolds.
 

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I picked up a set of Boost Bros. for $80 shipped. I was leery, but figured if they were junk I wasn't out much. I couldn't be happier. The build quality is excellent. Everything lined up perfectly. I've had them on for a year now with no problems. They look just like the ones you got.
 

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I picked up a set of Boost Bros. for $80 shipped. I was leery, but figured if they were junk I wasn't out much. I couldn't be happier. The build quality is excellent. Everything lined up perfectly. I've had them on for a year now with no problems. They look just like the ones you got.
I'm sure they are all from some shop in China. How often did you retorque yours after the install?
 

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They're made somewhere on the east coast, New Hampshire I think. They pretty much gave away a few sets on ebay to get their name out. I rechecked torque after 100 miles and 1 month after that. None of the fasteners had loosened up, but I used the OEM style steel gaskets.
 
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