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Heavy battery drain

2643 Views 13 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  predzZzZzZ
I posted this in the electrical section, but that forum doesn't seem to get much action:

An old to9pic, but a new problem for me.

Battery went completely dead overnight last week and I replaced it with a new Interstate.
Next morning it was dead again.

I had to use jumper wires to get it going and I removed the neg cable.
Did all the reading and bought a meter that measured in mas.

Connected the red lead to the loose cable and the black to the neg terminal of the battery.
I started puling fuses and finally fount the culprit.
It was #23 dome light circuit. Drain went from 1.40ma to .03ma, I hope it wasn't .3ma, I'll recheck that.

Left the fuse out and it didn't die overnight.
I had noticed that I couldn't lock doors with the remote, but could unlock them.
It came to me that maybe the system thought the door was open which always prevented me from locking doors with remote.

Today, I removed and checked the small switch on both front doors, but they both tested good.
A wire to the passenger switch seemed very flimsy and I wonder if it was broken.
I have to check that further.
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I apologize for for the double post.
Some of my amp draw readings were probably off, but the bottom line was I had a drain on the dome light circuit.
My wife turned off both the dome light switches and I left the dome fuse out.

The truck had no further drain issues so it had to be that circuit.
Yesterday we checked the battery drain with the fuse in and out. There was no difference.
I left the fuse in vernight and the truck started right up this morning.

I checked and the dome switches worked perfectly in the front, but the rear dome light gave an intermittent light.
I removed the lamp and there was a crack in its plastic housing. I'm buying a new housing and I hope it's that and not a wiring issue.
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I apologize for for the double post.
Some of my amp draw readings were probably off, but the bottom line was I had a drain on the dome light circuit.
My wife turned off both the dome light switches and I left the dome fuse out.

The truck had no further drain issues so it had to be that circuit.
Yesterday we checked the battery drain with the fuse in and out. There was no difference.
I left the fuse in vernight and the truck started right up this morning.

I checked and the dome switches worked perfectly in the front, but the rear dome light gave an intermittent light.
I removed the lamp and there was a crack in its plastic housing. I'm buying a new housing and I hope it's that and not a wiring issue.
@tempetom did this fix your issue? We are currently pulling fuses on a different circuit, but I would like to solve the issue as well.
@tempetom did this fix your issue? We are currently pulling fuses on a different circuit, but I would like to solve the issue as well.
Since I removed the rear dome light, I have had no further battery drain issues.

I ordered a new light from one vendor, but it never came.
I cancelled the order and was promised a refund.

I haven't checked to see if they refunded the $50 or so yet.
My wife usually checks the credit card statements and I haven't bothered.

I ordered from another vendor and it was back ordered.
I just got an email that it was shipped.

I'll poat after I install it, but I'm sure it will work.
@tempetom did this fix your issue? We are currently pulling fuses on a different circuit, but I would like to solve the issue as well.
Did pulling fuses locate your problem?
I've read that if not, it could be in the alternator.
Did pulling fuses locate your problem?
I've read that if not, it could be in the alternator.
I’ve identified the 2 circuits that are draining the battery but I’m not sure what the 2 problems are within those circuits. Just continuously pulling fuses each time leaving the vehicle so the battery stays charged.
I’ve identified the 2 circuits that are draining the battery but I’m not sure what the 2 problems are within those circuits. Just continuously pulling fuses each time leaving the vehicle so the battery stays charged.
Did each circuit seem to have the same amount of drain?
At least if you take it someplace to get it fixed, you've done most of the work.

I was really afraid that I wouldn't be able to find and fix my problem
I can see why some people over react and trade in their vehicles when this happens.

My new switch came in the mail last night then it took us some time to find the old switch so I could use its screws and keep the bulb and lens for spares.
Did each circuit seem to have the same amount of drain?
At least if you take it someplace to get it fixed, you've done most of the work.

I was really afraid that I wouldn't be able to find and fix my problem
I can see why some people over react and trade in their vehicles when this happens.

My new switch came in the mail last night then it took us some time to find the old switch so I could use its screws and keep the bulb and lens for spares.
I don't remember the current draw on each circuit, but it was something like 2.0-2.5 Amps between the 2, from what I've read it should be in milliamps (mA) LOL.

We took it to a mechanic because one of the circuits is tied to a lot of components (dashboard, entertainment system, etc) and we didn't want to mess it up. He told us "no offense, but we've followed customer's leads before and sometimes it turns out great sometimes it doesn't, so we'd have to start from scratch to ensure we don't overlook anything". I respect the approach, but at $100/hr I don't want him to take 5 hours on a vehicle that's near the end of it's life.

Let me know how your install goes please.
I don't remember the current draw on each circuit, but it was something like 2.0-2.5 Amps between the 2, from what I've read it should be in milliamps (mA) LOL.

We took it to a mechanic because one of the circuits is tied to a lot of components (dashboard, entertainment system, etc) and we didn't want to mess it up. He told us "no offense, but we've followed customer's leads before and sometimes it turns out great sometimes it doesn't, so we'd have to start from scratch to ensure we don't overlook anything". I respect the approach, but at $100/hr I don't want him to take 5 hours on a vehicle that's near the end of it's life.

Let me know how your install goes please.
I put in the new switch and it works perfectly.
I'm confident that the battery won't drain overnight.

When I watched some videos they mentioned that drain problems are often from added components.
I removed my security monitor and haven't reinstalled it yet.
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I put in the new switch and it works perfectly.
I'm confident that the battery won't drain overnight.

When I watched some videos they mentioned that drain problems are often from added components.
I removed my security monitor and haven't reinstalled it yet.
That's great news! Please update me tomorrow if the battery is still alive.
That's great news! Please update me tomorrow if the battery is still alive.
The interior lights came on when I opened the door and it started right up.
My mechanic only charges $50 or $60 bucks an hour for labor, but he's in Mesa, AZ.
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The interior lights came on when I opened the door and it started right up.
My mechanic only charges $50 or $60 bucks an hour for labor, but he's in Mesa, AZ.
That's great to hear! Glad it's working for you now! Now to tackle my own Sequoia problem....
That's great to hear! Glad it's working for you now! Now to tackle my own Sequoia problem....
Have you resolved your issue yet?
Mine seems to be fine now. My son and I went into the boonies where no one else was around last Sat.
He was a bit worried about getting stranded, but we had no problems.
Have you resolved your issue yet?
Mine seems to be fine now. My son and I went into the boonies where no one else was around last Sat.
He was a bit worried about getting stranded, but we had no problems.
No luck yet, haven't had the time to diagnose it yet. I need to get my windshield replaced first as there is a water leak inside which is also giving me electrical problems. I will follow up after that.
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