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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently got a 2001 Sequoia 4WD SR5. I put the Billstein shocks (5th notch) and ARB coils on it described in this thread.

181593-suspension-tires-lift-update-2005-sequoia/

I also put 285/75/16 BFG All Terrain KO2 tires and MB 352 16 X8.5 6-139.70 rims.

I had a slightly difficult time getting the right side shock to go on. It seemed as though there wasn't enough travel to fit it. I initially thought that this was from the using the 5th notch but I'm pretty sure that the shock length is independent of the notch setting. The left side went in just fine. After I got the tires on I noticed that there was less clearance to the back of the wheel well on the right side. I then took the car in to get it aligned. I told them that I just put the lift and tires on and about the issues that I had with the right side and asked them to check it out. They aligned the car and said that everything was good. I thought that they gave me the numbers on the paper that he handed me but when I got home I looked and there were no numbers.

The steering seems to be too responsive and twitchy. It tracks straight down the road. I drove it down a dirt road and the steering was awful. Every bump and rock that I hit went straight into the steering wheel and made it feel like the steering wheel has play when it doesn't. Since it was Thanksgiving, I couldn't take it back in right away. I drove it on some curvy paved roads over the weekend. I don't know if this is related to the alignment or another issue, but the Traction Control started to kick in, on some curves on pavement when there was no slip. It is also kicking in now on straight roads after accelerating.

I started looking at some of the other threads that DJ commented on as well as the Factory Service manual. Right away I noticed that the tie rod length difference was way off compared to the 1.5 mm allowed. There are about 11 threads on the right side and 4 threads on the left. I also noticed that a Zero Point calibration is supposed to be done for the steering angle, master cylinder pressure, and yaw rate deceleration sensors. Armed with a few of these things and DJ's specs I went back to the shop. I asked them if I could get a print out of the alignment. They said that the printer was broken that day and that they didn't have any numbers. This didn't instill a lot of confidence in them for me. They said that they could look at the sensor codes to see what is going on. He didn't seem willing to check the alignment again or work with me to get things right. They said you can't get enough caster with the lift. They also said that the tie rod had to be adjusted this way to get the steering wheel straight, and just blew off the 1.5 mm spec. He also said that the calibration was not necessary. They blamed some of it on the age of the car. Not feeling good about them I called back to cancel my appointment and she told me that they would recheck the numbers, so I told her that I would bring it back in. I also measured the hub to hub distance with a tape measure. I got that the right side is about .5 inches shorter than the left (not a very accurate measurement). Shouldn't the alignment machine give them the setback distance? I couldn't find a spec for this number but it seems that something is off on my right side. Is it possible for the lower arm to be cocked back and to get the alignment to come in? I'm excited about my new ride, but I have to get these issues resolved.
 
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