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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to remove the body moulding on the side of the doors and paint them white. How do I do this without snapping any clips or anything off.

I was considering buying them for a limited tundra and putting them on mine but just for the moulding its like 500.00. I know a paint guy who can do it for cheap.

Also, I wanted to paint the matte black bumper trim on the front bumper too.

Will the paint hold up on the moulding and bumper trim???

Thanks guys!
 

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For paint that has to hold up in the face of "road rash", try industrial catalysed paint called polyurethane or "plastic" paint. This is commonly used in the oil patch and holds up better than typical automotive paint, and infinitely better than anything from a rattle can or which does not use a hardener (catalyst).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you prep them right the paint will hold up. If I remember correctly the side moldings are two sided taped on. A heatgun and some fishing line or spatula carfully can take them off.
I was checking out your pictures and noticed that you painted yours. what type of paint did you use? Did you use the paint code to match the paint on the truck ("natural white" I think)? I am really interested in this, so if your could desribe what and how you did this, I would appreciate it!!!
 

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I used Standox automotive paint for mine with dupont clear.

Step 1: remove moldings from doors. They are held on by two sided tape.

Step 2: scuff pieces down for the paint to have some adhesion to.
-500 grit will allow for them to directly be painted (may not hold up to rock chips as long as sanding and priming)
-The best way to do it would be scuff down with 120 or 240 grit. Spray with a high build primer. Then sand the primer with 500 grit.

Step 3: Pieces are ready to paint. Choose your color. (yes I did use the color code for Natural White. 056 I think it was)

Step 4: Spray your pieces with enough coats to allow for full coverage. but don't hose it on.

Step 5: Spray pieces with clear coat for Shine and protection. More clear = More protection.

hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I used Standox automotive paint for mine with dupont clear.

Step 1: remove moldings from doors. They are held on by two sided tape.

Step 2: scuff pieces down for the paint to have some adhesion to.
-500 grit will allow for them to directly be painted (may not hold up to rock chips as long as sanding and priming)
-The best way to do it would be scuff down with 120 or 240 grit. Spray with a high build primer. Then sand the primer with 500 grit.

Step 3: Pieces are ready to paint. Choose your color. (yes I did use the color code for Natural White. 056 I think it was)

Step 4: Spray your pieces with enough coats to allow for full coverage. but don't hose it on.

Step 5: Spray pieces with clear coat for Shine and protection. More clear = More protection.

hope that helps.

Ya man definetely helps, thanks for sharing! How has yours held up? By the way, I am assuming that the same method would work for the black bumper trim too.

Thanks again!
 

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Yeah same method. Mine has held up ok, I havn't been nice to it as it tends to hit the house or the fence once in a while. The only part that shows some chipping is the chrome strip in the middle. Make sure you sand that one really thoroughly as its the hardest to get adhesion. An adheasion promoter or etch primer would be good to use on something like that as well. And like Mr. Creosote said catalyzed paint is the strongest. The clear I used is catalyzed or I believe the paint he is referring to is a single stage not needing clear. correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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Yes brother, no clear unless you want it. Not needed for matte/flat finish of course but if you want gloss on the front you can top it off with clear.
 
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