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Discussion Starter #1
What I do normaly takes me about 7 hrs and because i live in the north east i do it twice a year.

Products
Flex Buffer XC 3401 VRG Some like the porter cables, Personal perfrence is yours.
Jelly blade or Shamey
Microfiber cloth's Atlease 12
Meguiar's clay bar kit : Come with detail spray.
Meguiars Mirror Glaze #105 Ultra-Cut Compound
Meguiars Mirror Glaze #205 Ultra Finishing Polish
Meguiars #7 Show Car Glaze
Fleetwax 885 Collinite Heavy Duty Paste This is by FAR the best wax out there, i dont care what anyone hase to say about it.

Ok So let's get started Make sure your truck/car is in the shade with NO sun beating down on it. Allways use a new microfiber when switching products.

Step 1
Wash truck/car with very soapy water top first and then the sides. Dry with jelly blade or shamey.

SETP 2
Clay bar the whole truck/car doing in small sections no biger then 1ft x 1ft You will use the detail spray as a lube to keep the clay bar moveing accrose the clear coat till it fells smooth no bumps or anything left on it. Wipe that section off with a microfiber cloth. Keep repeating till you have touched ever inch of your truck/car.

Step 3
Compounding the truck/car does take mils of your clear coat off I would not recommend compounding your truck/car evertime you do a crazy detail. Long as you dont let the truck/car go to crap you'll be fine with doing this just once long as you keep up on it. Beside this if you get scratches i would olny spot compound. Same as the clay bar you will be doing 2ft x 2ft sections instead no biger. When applying you want to slowly spread the compound over your 2ft x 2ft section. Then you want to go up and down from left to right in your 2x2 area one pass then left to right going all the way up or all the way down in your 2x2 area second pass. You want to repeat that each 3 times then wipe off. Again Repeat till you have touched ever inch of your truck/car.

Step 4
This step is the same a step 3 but instead with Polish. Repeat till you touck ever inch of your truck/car

Step 5
You can skip this step if you want i fell i get just a little more out of my detail if i do this. Same as step 3 and 4 but useing the show car glaze. Again Repeat till you have touched ever inch of your truck/car.

Step 6
Waxing The wax i Highly Recommend is very easy to use one panel at a time apply and then wipe off were you started. DO NOT let it dry. When doing the hood split it in half try to keep to sections about half the size of your hood. After the 24 hrs it takes for this to cure you can add another coat if you want the more coats the better it isnt going to hirt anything. When i do my 6th month detail i normal add 6 coats meaning 6 days of waxing olny takes about 30 mins to wax my Tundar make sure to wipe down the whole truck/car with detail spray before waxing.

Now between each one of these steps useing the detail spray wipe down the truck/car to make sure there is nothing left over on the clear coat, Its more or less a safty to make sure you have wiped ever inch of it clean from your compound/polish or glaze.

Now About ever other day after detailing take the detal spray and wipe down the truck/car and thats it, it will always look clean this way. If tar gets on it it will come off very easy. Make sure if you do wash your truck/car do not use a degreaser or any dish soap this WILL strip the wax off of your truck/car.

This is something i like to do also with my windows. Useing the clay bar just like you did on the clear coat do to your windows. Then useing this wax Apply it to the window and again DO NOT let dry wipe off. this gets a lil tricky do not use your wipers for a whole 24hrs to let fully cure. It will look amazing.

Since its late ill give you one last great trick. For your black plastic on the outside use KIWI COLOR SHINE this is shoe polish, apply and make sure not to get in on your clear coat. This will last a very long time with no fadeing.
 

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All that and not one single pic.... what gives?

You can also use the soap solution as a lube for the clay, killing two birds with one stone.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you. Yes ive seen that video The olny thing i dont like about what they say is when compounding or polishing it really depends on the clear coat for what pads to use some times a softer clear coat you need a softer pad like one you would use for a glaze and if it is a harder clear coat you may need to compound more then once and use a compounding pad to polish.

My tail gate now rember this is the silver sky paint and i suck at pics.



This is the KIWI shoe polish i pput this on about 4 months ago. they look brand new.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
All that and not one single pic.... what gives?

You can also use the soap solution as a lube for the clay, killing two birds with one stone.
I really dont like doing that cause you can pick up alot more stuff that way and rub it in to your clear causeing more micro marring. If your doing your own car no reason to cut corners thats just how i feel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6

Dirty truck but still looks ok
 

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Theres no risk of micro marring when using the soap as a lube. Wash the vehicle, then rinse it. Mix a fresh solution of soap and water and use that as the lube for your clay, it is much cheaper and faster than having to use detail spray for lube.

I really dont like doing that cause you can pick up alot more stuff that way and rub it in to your clear causeing more micro marring. If your doing your own car no reason to cut corners thats just how i feel.
 

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Now About ever other day after detailing take the detal spray and wipe down the truck/car and thats it, it will always look clean this way.
You are running the risk of marring the paint doing this every other day. I used to do this, but then realized it could cause more harm than good. Better off just waiting till the next time you can wash, or doing an Optimum No Rinse Wash.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You are running the risk of marring the paint doing this every other day. I used to do this, but then realized it could cause more harm than good. Better off just waiting till the next time you can wash, or doing an Optimum No Rinse Wash.
Am going to have to dis agree with you, the amount of wax that is on my truck witch acts almost like another clear coat on top of my clear coat ,I am useing the same way a wcw works. Read up a little on the wax first before re posting. Waterless Car Wash wcw.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Theres no risk of micro marring when using the soap as a lube. Wash the vehicle, then rinse it. Mix a fresh solution of soap and water and use that as the lube for your clay, it is much cheaper and faster than having to use detail spray for lube.
What i though u were saying above was dont wash it at all and just strat claying it. I know what your saying i just perfer useing that as my lube , the olny time i use soapy water like that is to wet sand.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Look this is the way i do my deatiling and have on my of my own cars as well as clients car show car exc. This is a fail proof system for someone who doesnt do it on a norma. It works great i have no micro maring on my truck, or any of the other cars i have done. Inless they have taken them through a car wash worse thing you could ever do in my eyes. But rember this is the way i do it, not everone does it the same way 100 %
 

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Wasn't sure if this was serious to begin with, what with using shoe polish and all.... Since you want to discuss going that route, use Pledge on the paint and Pam on the undercarriage (and yes, that's sarcasm).
 

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Gezz this shoe polish thing got u really upset huh. Is it the price cause it olny coast 5 bucks and all the other crap coast like 20+? Just wondering kinda concerned about you wouldnt want u going off the handle over this.:boink:just poken fun
 

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Am going to have to dis agree with you, the amount of wax that is on my truck witch acts almost like another clear coat on top of my clear coat ,I am useing the same way a wcw works. Read up a little on the wax first before re posting. Waterless Car Wash wcw.
I think you are telling the wrong person to "read up" on waxes.

Fact of the matter is, any time you put a microfiber or any other towel against paint with 2 days worth of dust, road grime, pollen etc, you have a chance of micro marring. It may work just fine, but it is not advisable.

You need to listen to some of us that are trying to suggest improvements to your already good detailing regimen, instead of getting flustered. Having an attitude is a good way to get the thread closed or deleted.
 

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You Got It Boss :D Am very happy to hear people asking querstion thats the olny way to get it rite. I did also look and your webpage looks good:tu: Just wondering you dont recomand useing a WCW system then?
 

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A true rinseless wash like ONR can work as well as a normal wash, provided there arent visible debris (mud, sand, etc) on the surface. ONR can wash a car/truck with a much less chance of marring than QD'ing. QD's are meant for *light* dust, bird doo, and to add gloss after a wash, not for regular maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Huh good to know. See ive used this as a maintenance way to keep up on my truck. but i also dont go riping through mub or sand on at all. I def see what your saying.
 

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good advices in all, but in general like someone mentioned I would not go ahead and start spraying detailing wax/rinse stuff on the vehicle with dirt or any kind of stuff on the car without a rinse of some sort then do a quick detail wipe. I have a black tundra so all that will show. though one thing I do believe is letting the wax dry and do your whole car instead of one section at a time. If you dont let it dry enough you will get a ghosting effect granted you probably wont see it on cars other than black, but here is a pic of ghosting if you dont let it dry long enough mind you I had let this sit for at least 15mins, but should of 30 or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
:tu:Looks great
 
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