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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First real issue with my 07' 5.7 SR5 Love the truck, and plan on running until it finally says no...(117K miles) could be a while .... Started by turning the key and getting a CLICK ... turned it off and tried again and she fired right up ... cool ... on my trip home my check engine light came on .... ran by the local auto zone and it had 4 codes .... all refereeing to the Cam position sensor, and crank shaft position sensor ... these are $100 buck a pop .... so mechanic friend said clean ALL battery post and CHECK CHECK CHECK the ground ....had to replace the terminal on the negative wire connecting to the battery ... did that ... the truck had trouble starting ....this was due to the computer resetting .... it had to re-learn ....so it even died on me once around the block..... thinking everything was fixed ... but a week later it did it again ... I had used a cheap, non lead connector on the negative terminal (only thing Oriley had) and my mechanic said that is where he started ... but at this point the clicking had been happening for about 10 days .... on the initial start in the morning .... it would click, I would turn it off and I would get it started ....we did all the fuse box tricks and all the potential connection tips found on this site..... now from not figuring out at the beginning where I had a bad connection, I was sending low voltage through the starter and it could not turn over.... but I would keep trying and trying ... and eventually get it fired .... this is what caused my starter to go out .... YES the labor is a PITA ... and is 5 hrs at a shop for an R&R ... I had to take it in ... there are a bunch of re-man starters out there...and most are made in Mexico ...the OEM cost $500 ... but there is one Re-maed you want! ...BOSH has a re-manned for $200 ish ...it comes with a 24 month warranty .... we had to order ours from 4hrs away ..... with the cost of labor....don't go cheap on your starter. ..... and don't start dropping hundreds on position sensors unless your SURE !!!
 

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Thanks for sharing this information. Bad electrical connections can be the cause of many problems, glad that you figured yours out and got it fixed. Now for the next 117K miles!
 

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Thanks for the reminder about checking Ground connections-especially in salty conditions.
Something else to consider when buying a starter: Does warranty include labor? 2 bad starters & you could have bought a new OEM if you are paying the mechanic for each replacement. Also, what labor rate is Warranty covering?
Some 'Warranties' only cover a portion of the hourly labor rate, and you are stuck with the remainder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't believe labor is covered ....reason I went with one of the best

The shop did say the mfg. Might take care of some labor... But some labor will come out of my pocket

A few more things I need to share

1. If your battery is three yrs old and you get a click.... Replace the battery.... They will show just a shy under 12... But you need a good 12.25 to efficiently crank you truck.... They don't want to deal with warranty on the battery

2. If you tackle this job yourself.... Spray the bolts with PB blaster and let them soak... I am not sure if it's in the manifold or the starter.... But guys using a impact are breaking them off...
My shop used his snap-on chrome sockets, and busted two...he said it was better for the socket to give and not break the bolt... He just exchanges them out when the snap-on truck comes around...

3. Check check check you battery connections....try to move it with your hand.... If it moves tighten

4. If it clicks on ignition...there is an issue.... Don't screw around and think it will fix itself

NOTE: the 5.7 starter is in a bad spot. It sits right next to a hot manifold, which the additional heat cannot be good. More of us will be needing to change it out. Don't go cheap, when you buy one.
 
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