Toyota Tundra Forums banner

21 - 40 of 55 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Well...thought I would post an update. I got the bad news today. The entire "box" is going to have to be replaced. The official name for this box is the Radiator Assembly, Air Conditioning. I had multiple internal dampers fail. I don't have the part number immediately handy but can post it if someone needs it.

It has been quite a day. My local service manager, who is a really good guy, really went to bat for me on this one. He got the Southeast Regional Maintenance rep involved from the beginning when i generated a case number with Toyota. I get the bad news today that the whole box would need to be replaced and with it, the whole dash pulled out. I had to make multiple calls to Toyota and the dealer, but they finally got the point.

They insisted on a 3 - 5 day delivery of the part from LA to B'ham, AL. Unacceptable since I want and need my truck back and the fact that I'm paying a daily fee for the loaner Prius. Well, after about four phone calls and multiple rants to Toyota, they really hooked me up.

This work should cost me roughly $2,500 - $3,000 (Absurd, but true...Part, Labor, Loaner, Shipment, Taxes, Shop Costs, etc. etc.). I was worried to death. Much to my surprise, I get a call from the service manager that Toyota is only going to charge me $400 for the repair (including the $1,200 part and ALL that labor), the charge for the loaner (which I got at a discounted rate of $25/day) and the overnight shipment cost from LA to B'ham. Should end up being around $700. Keep in mind I've got an '08 that is still under the 3 years, but 15k out of warranty on mileage.

Toyota really impressed me here. My service manager told me "It pays to be a loyal customer my friend." I guess Toyota did get a little spooked after I called them 4-5 times and considering this is my families fourth Toyota. I was seriously considering trading this truck after getting this repair made until they came through.

Anyway...sorry for the long post but wanted to let y'all know Toyota will help you fix what they know isn't right...you just might have to ride their a*s a bit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
BTW...I've still got my fingers crossed that this kid doesn't ruin all my custom installed electronics. They get the part on Friday and I should have my truck back Friday evening and begin the checkout process. Praying for no rattles as well....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Correction...part on site on Thursday and truck re-assembled on Friday.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
Unfortunately I did not get the Platinum warranty but I guess my loyalty (4Runner, GS300, Sequoia, and Tundra) paid off in the end.

My biggest concern is the magnitude of the failures on these Tundras coupled with the questions around Toyota's QA/QC these days...I mean $3,000 to work on the A/C?!?!? $3,000+ on Air Induction Pumps?!?!?!?

Their failure mechanisms aren't small...they are huge.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Hope everything works after the repair, that looks like a huge project. Keep us posted.

On another note about your dealer. When I had the air induction pump problem with my 07 SR5 the dealer informed me that if I was a premier customer they could do more for me. So I guess in the long run it pays to stay with the same dealer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Got the truck back today...everything is working perfectly. Unfortunate that I had to deal with this at all, but Toyota REALLY stepped up to the plate on this one and came through for me. Total repair cost should have been between $2,500 - $3,000 and I paid a whopping $645 including taxes!!! This was the $400 for the part/labor and the $245 fee for the loaner car for 7 days. Awesome!!! Thank you Toyota!!! (Just don't let this failure happen again!!!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
One other thing...they did the Dash Rattle TSB for me while they had the dash apart and man what a difference...NO more annoying rattle from over there and no rattles thus far from any part of the dash!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Good to hear they got ya fixed up. What dealership did you use? Team, allstar, price leblanc?

Sent from my ADR6300 using AutoGuide App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
I realize this thread is 8 months old, but wanted to register a 'me too' post. I have an '07 that recently had a transmission seal replaced (under powertrain warranty). When I got it back, I noticed right away that the AC didn't turn on right away. I'd hit A/C, and the display stayed dark. About 60 sec after starting the engine, it finally lit up, and I could choose as normal. However, the air would only blow through the defrost.

I have yet to call the dealer - as I figured it was purely coincidental. Afterall, why would they be in the dash to replace the transmission seal?

Today I took most of the dash off, to see if I could find a loose cable or broken part. As others described here, I could see the gearing on the driver's side of the air box. Oddly enough, when I first start the truck, about 30 seconds later, the main gear starts to move in one direction (about 1/2 turn), then binds, reverses, and repeats about four times. After that cycling is complete, then the display lights up and I can run the air. Choosing between modes does nothing for the gear - no movement.

However, upon turning the engine off, about 30 seconds later, the gear begins to cycle four more times.

It appears to me that something in the box is binding. Also the main gear wheel does not seem to be stable laterally. In other words, when viewing down the gear (teeth facing observer), the gear wobbles on its axis, revealing the gear's shaft. It's loading up as it does this - as though the torque on the gear is causing it to move.

There are way too many other components in the way for me to get complete access to the gear components. I'm considering calling the dealer/service advisor who did the tranny work, to ask them if there are any parallels between the work performed and this issue. I'm all but certain I know the answer.

In any case, I now have about 50% of the dash disassembled. I don't know if I should even admit this to the dealer, or take it to him like this (maybe save on some labor). Of course, with my luck, he'll bill me more for having to 'undo' my 'work'.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Just in case anyone else stumbles onto this thread in the future, here was my resolution...

Stadium Toyota (Tampa, FL) charged $89 diagnostics to determine that the servo 1 (driver's side) was inoperable. The said it was internal to the airbox, and had nothing to do with operator error. I was concerned that having added an after-market stereo, wires or other components got jammed into the gears below the head unit. I did remove the stereo to inspect prior to giving to the dealer - and found no such obstruction.

The part cost is $190, and 4hrs of labor ($98/hr) for a total just under $600. I'm a little miffed about a part that has failed just outside of a year past warranty extension. It's not a wearable item (i.e. tires, oil, rings, etc), and it failed due to no fault of mine. The service manager suggested that I contact Toyota Corporate to plead my case. The fact that I bought a Toyota, and not a Ford, Chevy, or GM product, should have prevented this from happening.

Once the final repairs are completed, and any haggling completed, I'll post my results here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Hello gentleman. I wanted to post up my results with this problem. I took off the servo assembly to discover why the gears were binding and I found that my servo had broke a steel rod that controls my feet damper (see pictures). I have 50% of the dash apart to remove the "Air conditioning Radiator assembly" but I think I might just leave it as is. I can't bring myself to removing the whole steering column and drop $800 to replace the assembly for that stupid little gear. It's going to break my heart to leave the truck imperfect but I can't justify the $800 over the foot control. :(

On the bright side I've learned a lot about what makes my truck tick.

and the pictures.. The red circle is where the rod broke off. It looks like bad casting on the steel rod..




 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Our ’08 Tundra SR5 (35k miles) had been upgraded to the LTD automatic climate control by the previous owner “keninsb”. Ken meticulosuly followed “eyeckr”s write up (http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/203890-converting-manual-ac-to-auto-ac/)
and the LTD set up/system worked for quite some time exactly as described in the write up (it would go back to default settings after it sat), and w/o any other problems. We bought the truck from Ken in August 2013.

Two months ago it started having the familiar problem of airflow only from the defrost vents, despite mode selection.

~Took it to excellent private shop locally. Also gave them the original SR5 cimate control unit just in case. They hooked it up and it failed in the exact same manner. They recalled this Tundra issue and printed out the forum thread about it and said we should take it to Toyota as they may help pay for some of it.
~Took it to only Toyota dealership within 100 miles (we live in a rural, small town), and made them aware that it had been converted to a LTD CC unit. They weren’t happy, and diagnosed it as a servo failure.
~I called the Regional Customer Care rep and discussed that this was a common failure, and that many other owners had gotten Toyota to cover some of the costs. After much discussion with the locqal Service Mgr and the actual service tech, they said they could NOT do that because we hadn’t brought it to Toyota FIRST, so they don’t know what the other shop did, so they can’t say it was a Toyota part failure.
~FYI, this dealership subs out some work to the private shop I first took it to. They’re that good.
~The first shop merely took out the LTD unit and tried the SR5 unit, they didn’t alter or fix anything. No dice, declined to offer any assistance. GRRRR!!!
~So they put in a new servo, but said still had same failure.
~They then asked for the original SR5 a/c amplifier (which we had and gave them). Still couldn’t get it working with the “SR5” set up.
~They reinstalled the old servo motor as they concluded that wasn’t the problem.
~After having the truck for 9 days…. they tell us the SR5 CC unit, servo and the SR5 a/c amp all had different serial numbers that did NOT match the truck’s original equipment. (What difference does that make??)
~They said they had to order a new SR5 CC unit and a/c amp for about $1,700 in parts to “return it to stock” and make it work.
~Also said it needed 2 servo motors…WTF? Didn’t you just tell us the servo wasn’t the problem?
~At this point I called BS, and told them to just button it up as is (with the SR5 unit in it), and leave it in a non-functional status. Give us back all our parts, and we’d go elsewhere.
~Almost $500 for labor for nothing!!! Double GGRRRR!!

~I honestly don’t believe they ever tried to hook up the LTD CC unit after the new servo was installed. The told us something like “there’s no documentation from Toyota about upgrading the SR5 to the LTD model”, and further said it COULDN’T BE DONE, it wouldn’t work. Yeah, righto.....it worked for over a year and several members here have done it as well!!

~On the way home we discovered the aftermarket Pioneer stereo/GPS head unit shows it’s playing but no audio is heard…..UGH!

Does anybody have any input, suggestions or advice?

Anybody know a good shop somewhere in the Phoenix area we could take it to (if my local shop can’t get it to work)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Guess what? I've got the exact same problem. My vent selector switch isn't working. So far, all the air is being directed to the windshield. I can adjust the fan speed and temperature control. What a pain! Based on the comments above, it looks like another expensive fix at the dealership with a full dash removal/replacement. Any quick fix? THANKS!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
819 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
Good luck man...this was a very very expensive repair. Thank god my dealer and Toyota worked with me and performed a $3000 - $4000 repair for only about $600 or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I had this happen as well. I drilled the center out of the actuator arm and then put it back in place. I then drilled the baffle section using the actuator as a guide. I was able to super glue it and then insert a drywall screw (great cutting threads) to lock it back in place. This was the easy part. Timing the actuators and getting it all back together was PITA! Canadian prairie winters ... I need a working heater!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
I just started experiencing this problem. I need to locate those gears, I've looked up under the drivers side dash, where are they exactly?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Same problem here on my 2007 5.7L. I bought it used and it's been flawless until now. I don't have a relationship with a dealer or a repair shop, so I think I'm on my own.

I was considering figuring out a hack. Something like drilling a hole, inserting a rod and moving the vents manually. I probably won't do that, but that's the kind of thing I'm thinking. I'm not a car guy in that I don't care what I drive as long as it works, which has lead me back to Toyota so many times.

Does anyone have any photos of their disassembly process or hints before I begin ripping my truck apart?

I'm also in the Phoenix area like a few others I've seen on this thread. If one of you got this fixed at a reasonable price, can you tell me where? $600-$1,000 is worth it, but $3,000 is worth a hack.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I have a 2010 tundra double cab and the foot well vents just quit working the other day. All of the other vents work. i have a dealer looking at this next week. i hope it is just the servo motor for that set of vents.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Same issue on a 2007 tundra except I get feet heat and no windshield so they failed my state inspection. Any photos would be great so I can disassemble this beast and try to fix. Toyota told me a minimum of 1200 bucks to fix. Also said it would take three to four days to do the work. Very frustrating and I really am considering doing this myself but everyone on here makes it seem impossible to do yourself.
 
21 - 40 of 55 Posts
Top