[Lunas]

I am under the understanding the 2uz-fe is a pretty much bullet proof engine and short of hydrolocking or breaking the timing belt it should not develop issues.

So now my issue my 2005 toyota tundra limited DC has really bad lifter knock. So it needs 32 valves clearanced and adjusted. I can't do this myself and I got quoted 2500 to get it done. So my thoughts the heads probably have 263k miles on them would it make more sense rather than clearance the valves to buy some rebuilt heads and swap them. I can't do any of the work myself and this is my daily driver so i would have a shop do it. I found heads online for 470 each with core exchange. Would this be something i should pursue over having my valves fixed? Would it be cheaper this way?

 

[cheapskate]

I'm cant profess to tell you I know anything about the issue your having but are you sure you have a problem that requires a $2500 fix? . Do 32 valves really just all of a sudden go out of whack that bad? Couldnt there be something else causing the problem that could be fixed for a lot less cash? Just thinking that maybe you want to get another opinion on it from some place else, or maybe several places, before you spend that kind of coin or get balls deep into swapping heads. Hopefully someone else can chime in with some better suggestions before you pull the trigger. Or try doing a search on here of other threads that mention engine knock and see if there are any other solutions.

 

[Lunas]

I'm cant profess to tell you I know anything about the issue your having but are you sure you have a problem that requires a $2500 fix? . Do 32 valves really just all of a sudden go out of whack that bad? Couldnt there be something else causing the problem that could be fixed for a lot less cash? Just thinking that maybe you want to get another opinion on it from some place else, or maybe several places, before you spend that kind of coin or get balls deep into swapping heads. Hopefully someone else can chime in with some better suggestions before you pull the trigger. Or try doing a search on here of other threads that mention engine knock and see if there are any other solutions.

It is not rod knock it is lifter tick you are supposed to adjust the lifter cups every 60k or so I don't think it has ever been done. The engine runs smooth as silk but it sounds like a diesel. There are 4 or so things that cause it most common is lifter cups sticking or collapsing causing the lifter to have space between the lobe and stem which is where the clack clack clack comes from. The fix involves removing valve covers then on some removing cams and pulling cups changing out shims and reassembling this is done on all 32 valves on some models you can use a tool to pull a shim out the back and relash it that way this only involves rotating the cams to the position away from the valve and pulling out the shim. Worse case it requires complete head removal so each valve can be ground then shimmed. Which is why I'm wondering if it might be better off to get a pair of rebuilt heads considering 263k on my current ones...

 

[jgrauman]

I would find a different shop, that's steep... Example of a better option. They may be able to do a lot more for the same price... XAT V8 UZ Pocket Port Head Refresh and Valve Job 1UZ 1UZFE 2UZ 2UZFE 3UZ 3UZFE VVTi or non

 

[Lunas]

Humm that is 1650 to rebuild and modify my heads they would still need to be taken off the engine so running the numbers here probably 3-4k I found stock rebuilt heads online for 465 I would need a pair plus gasket kit and then send my old heads back to them as cores so 950 plus gasket kit plus labor to swap heads. Also head replacement is a huge pain exhaust manifolds intake all need be removed. Humm odd coincidence all 3 of the cars I have ever owned have either had or needed a top end rebuild. 1994 mercury cougar with 3.8 had head gasket blow on previous owner I bought it just after they had it fixed.
2005 Buick rendezvous I blew the head gasket on a road trip had to have that fixed it was 2400 one head needed to be replaced the other one was salvageable.
Now the 05 Toyota lifter tick so bad it sounds like a diesel. Clean oil no codes no cel lights trans could shift and drive smoother. Brakes need adjustment.

 

[Bob1954]

This particular engine has a tendency to spit out the adjustment shims. Mine did it on 3 different values on 3 different cylinders. I'm a Master tech with over 40 years experience. I did my own engine and it runs like new. Unless you are a really competent mechanic, I would recommend that you take it to the dealership or another good repair facility. More than likely, it will only be a couple of shims,but the cams have to come out to do the repair. That means that the engine has to be re-timed. With 4 cams, you need to be dead accurate with the timing. This is not a job for amateurs or shade tree mechanics. Good luck.

 

[Lunas]

Was never planning on doing it myself was looking for advise on which direction to take in my path for one of 4 potential shops.

I don't particularly care for my local toyota dealer but the online reviews are ok. Everyone I have asked thus far has never done the job the last one I took it to had done the timing belt on 3 others so he was at least familiar with the engine. In my town there are like 10 car repair shops. And I don't think any of them dealer included have done this.

 

[Bob1954]

If your dealer has a Master tech, they should be able to handle the job. If not, I would recommend that you look around for a good independent shop that does. As for a used engine, unless you are using oil or have other issues with the engine, I would stay with the original engine and deal with the heads issue. You can probably get your heads remand at a local machine shop. That would be my choice and it would probably be less money. Call around and ask. These engines have been known to go 500 miles. What happened to mine was a freak thing. ( 2007 with 61000 miles on it ).

 

[conk]

I am under the understanding the 2uz-fe is a pretty much bullet proof engine and short of hydrolocking or breaking the timing belt it should not develop issues.

So now my issue my 2005 toyota tundra limited DC has really bad lifter knock. So it needs 32 valves clearanced and adjusted. I can't do this myself and I got quoted 2500 to get it done. So my thoughts the heads probably have 263k miles on them would it make more sense rather than clearance the valves to buy some rebuilt heads and swap them. I can't do any of the work myself and this is my daily driver so i would have a shop do it. I found heads online for 470 each with core exchange. Would this be something i should pursue over having my valves fixed? Would it be cheaper this way?

Just a thought... I'm wondering if you did a compression test on the all 8 and see what you come up with, and if it will show you the cylinder/cylinders causing your issue? Maybe it's just one that's giving you the issue and you can concentrate on that side? Pull the plugs and inspect for additional anomalies. I haven't personally tore into one of these, but if there's a way to isolate and work on the one that's giving you the issue maybe you could save a few $. I've got an 03 Tundra with 360K on it and I also have a small valve ticking noise, but it hasn't change much over the last 200k miles so I leave it alone. Of course, I get what you are sayin about how bad sounding yours is. These are some tuff motors in my opinion. I wish you the best with it.

 

[Travis19981998]

dont know where your from but here i can put a used engine in with 100k on it. put three year parts and labor for about 2600 bucks

 

[Travis19981998]

Just a thought... I'm wondering if you did a compression test on the all 8 and see what you come up with, and if it will show you the cylinder/cylinders causing your issue? Maybe it's just one that's giving you the issue and you can concentrate on that side? Pull the plugs and inspect for additional anomalies. I haven't personally tore into one of these, but if there's a way to isolate and work on the one that's giving you the issue maybe you could save a few $. I've got an 03 Tundra with 360K on it and I also have a small valve ticking noise, but it hasn't change much over the last 200k miles so I leave it alone. Of course, I get what you are sayin about how bad sounding yours is. These are some tuff motors in my opinion. I wish you the best with it.

 

[Travis19981998]

graf the ignition in data you will see bad cylinders

 

[pagerguy]

Mine sounded really bad. I thought the valves were going to crumble. I went to the smartest Toyota guy that I know, ready for the worst news. He listened to it for a few seconds, walked into the shop and came out with a spray can. I thought, "WHAT?" He sprayed it into the intake and right before my ears, the sound began to disappear. He said, "You have carbon on your valves." I still haven't opened up that motor and it purrrrrs. 'Hope it works for you too.

 

[Lunas]

Mine sounded really bad. I thought the valves were going to crumble. I went to the smartest Toyota guy that I know, ready for the worst news. He listened to it for a few seconds, walked into the shop and came out with a spray can. I thought, "WHAT?" He sprayed it into the intake and right before my ears, the sound began to disappear. He said, "You have carbon on your valves." I still haven't opened up that motor and it purrrrrs. 'Hope it works for you too.

Ran a seafoam treatment into the vac line about half a can. And about 1.5 cans in the oil and every fuel up in the gas has been a can of seafoam.

 

[Bob1954]

Mine sounded really bad. I thought the valves were going to crumble. I went to the smartest Toyota guy that I know, ready for the worst news. He listened to it for a few seconds, walked into the shop and came out with a spray can. I thought, "WHAT?" He sprayed it into the intake and right before my ears, the sound began to disappear. He said, "You have carbon on your valves." I still haven't opened up that motor and it purrrrrs. 'Hope it works for you too.

You're correct about the carbon on the valves. In my case, the valves stuck at little and allowed the shim to pop out on 3 valves. So much for Shell gasoline keeping the valves clean. Fortunately, I was able to find the shims lying in some recesses in the heads. The cams have to come out to get them back in. A worse problem was that a valve keeper had come out ( 1per valve out of 2). The valves didn't drop since one half of the keeper was still holding the valves. This requires removing the heads in order to compress the valve spring to reinstall the keeper. What a nightmare, but it's done and the engine runs like new. This job is not for the faint hearted or an inexperienced mechanic.