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I have always wanted to do my own work on my truck but have been a little reluctant to get into it too much. I did all the services on my motorcycle and my old CJ-5 Jeep... But I am a little intimidated with this new big old truck.

Do many of you do your own servicing?

Is it better for warranty purposes to keep letting the stealership do all the work?

I can really save a ton of money if I do all this stuff by myself. But I think the breaks are going to be a little harder than a simple oil change.

I want to do things like, oil change, cabin air filter change, breaks, plugs... etc.

Is there a manual out that, in detail, will tell you how to do all the work your self? I have a manual for my bike that really tells me how to take my bike apart and put it back together... its made by a 3rd party company and its awesome. Anything out there for a Tundra?
 

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the services u mention are super easy. the brake pads are super easy. there are shop manuals made for the truck. no need to get one though, plenty of diy threads on here for normal routine maintenence. its not any harder than anything else. spark plugs wont need to be done till like 100k miles or something so that shoudl not bother ya just yet. :)

keep receipts showing the products used and it will be just fine on warranty unless u screw something up then they have to prove u didnt service it right
 

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The things you listed are easy to do it yourself as long as you are some what mechanically inclined. There are good DIY threads on this forum that show you how to. I still think the hardest part of the oil change is taking off the skid plate. I'm actually thinking of taking a large hole saw and making an access hole in the skid plate. back on topic. Ask for help on this forum and you will receive it. I'll take pictures of my transmission fluid change soon. Dealership has a gasket on back order for me.
 

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the services u mention are super easy. the brake pads are super easy. there are shop manuals made for the truck. no need to get one though, plenty of diy threads on here for normal routine maintenence. its not any harder than anything else. spark plugs wont need to be done till like 100k miles or something so that shoudl not bother ya just yet. :)

keep receipts showing the products used and it will be just fine on warranty unless u screw something up then they have to prove u didnt service it right

Yep, what he said. Print out some of the DIY here and use it for reference. If you have a floor jack and some stands -add tire rotations to your list.
 

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I do most of mine. Follow the maintenance schedule, and document your work. Sometimes it's cheaper, time vs. money, to have the dealership do some things. For example, I had them change the front/rear diff and transfer case fluid at 30k for $150.00. I didn't have them do a 30k service, it would have cost much more. Everything else I did myself. Ala Carte with the dealership is the way to go.
 

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Ala Carte with the dealership is the way to go.

That is it in a nutshell. Some things it is easier in terms of time and tools to have them do, some things you can do. MOST things actually in terms of routine service.

And, don't forget, its the new, inexperienced guy who does oil changes at the dealerships. Thats where they start them.
 

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As far as oil changes, you'll need one of these: K-D Tools 3253 - 65mm End Cap Oil Filter Wrench
Its the tool to remove the oil filter cap. Tundra's use a cartridge filter. They're pretty cheap online at Sparks Toyota and probably a few other places. Most people will switch to full synthetic like Mobil 1 or Pennzoil synthetic. Get them at walmart. Or Amsoil which you can order online and have delivered right to your door (AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide - 2009%7cTOYOTA%7cTUNDRA%7c6). With synthetic oil you can possibly go to 10k between changes if you dont tow a large trailer or work the engine like a dog. Might want to get all of the crush washers at the dealer first. Change the front/rear differentials and transfer case every 15k or every year with synthetics. And you'll need a good flexible grease gun with moly based lithium for the 4x4 shaft. 8 fittings, every 15k or 1 yr. Rotate the tires couple of times a year. Replace the stock air filter with the aFE Pro-Dry permanent, washable filter from here... AFE Pro-Dry S Air Filters. And replace the tranny fluid say every 15k or once a year. That's a weird design, you can only get out few quarts each time.

Good luck.
 

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CBTMA...Click on the link in my signature. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good info guys and thanks... I am going to start doing this stuff myself. I just bought a K&N Airfilter and cabin air filter today..My first part of being a member of the CBTMA club
 

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As far as oil changes, you'll need one of these: K-D Tools 3253 - 65mm End Cap Oil Filter Wrench
Its the tool to remove the oil filter cap. Tundra's use a cartridge filter. They're pretty cheap online at Sparks Toyota and probably a few other places. Most people will switch to full synthetic like Mobil 1 or Pennzoil synthetic. Get them at walmart. Or Amsoil which you can order online and have delivered right to your door (AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide - 2009%7cTOYOTA%7cTUNDRA%7c6). With synthetic oil you can possibly go to 10k between changes if you dont tow a large trailer or work the engine like a dog. Might want to get all of the crush washers at the dealer first. Change the front/rear differentials and transfer case every 15k or every year with synthetics. And you'll need a good flexible grease gun with moly based lithium for the 4x4 shaft. 8 fittings, every 15k or 1 yr. Rotate the tires couple of times a year. Replace the stock air filter with the aFE Pro-Dry permanent, washable filter from here... AFE Pro-Dry S Air Filters. And replace the tranny fluid say every 15k or once a year. That's a weird design, you can only get out few quarts each time.

Good luck.
No offense to Big Money, but I disagree on some things. Even if you use synthetic, follow the recommended 5k oil change interval at least during the warranty period. Rotate your tires at every oil change. 15k for diff and transfer case is overkill. If you tow or four wheel drive it's 30k. Same with the transmission fluid, you don't have to touch it until 60k miles and only if you tow. Modern vehicles don't require near the maintenance as older vehicles. If you want to do it more than that, fine, it won't hurt anything but your pocket book.

Personally I follow the "special conditions" section, which has higher intervals for diff/transfer case and transmission. I do four wheel drive and tow, but not all that often.

The maintenance schedule is attached in case you want it.
 

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No offense to Big Money, but I disagree on some things. Even if you use synthetic, follow the recommended 5k oil change interval at least during the warranty period. Rotate your tires at every oil change. 15k for diff and transfer case is overkill. If you tow or four wheel drive it's 30k. Same with the transmission fluid, you don't have to touch it until 60k miles and only if you tow. Modern vehicles don't require near the maintenance as older vehicles. If you want to do it more than that, fine, it won't hurt anything but your pocket book.

Personally I follow the "special conditions" section, which has higher intervals for diff/transfer case and transmission. I do four wheel drive and tow, but not all that often.

The maintenance schedule is attached in case you want it.
No offense taken. Thanks for posting the doc too. I only do maybe 12,000 miles a year and I think a year is a long enough interval before changing various fluids. And you are correct WildBilly, I'm just stuck in the old school when it comes to maintenance. But rotating tires at every oil change? C'mon that's too rententive even for me! Say every 10k or 15k should suffice.
 

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Same with the transmission fluid, you don't have to touch it until 60k miles and only if you tow. Modern vehicles don't require near the maintenance as older vehicles.
The 400,000 mile club Toyota owners know the lubes must be changed much more frequently than the manufacturer suggests to get that kind of componet durability.

In some ways modern drivetrain components are more fragile than ever. For example, the electronic shift control solenoids inside modern Toyota transmissions have little built in filters that can become restricted and cause the solenoids to stick or fail at around 150,000 miles if the fluid is never or rarely changed. And the 2007 on up Tundras have dirt and deposit sensitive hydraulic valve lifters, unlike the less sensitive mechanical lifters of older Toyota pickups. The 2007 on up Tundra 5.7 V8 also has a timing chain (4 of them, actually) and historically, Toyota chain mechanisms have developed mechanical problems prematurely if the owners stretched oil change intervals beyond 3000-5000 miles.
 

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The 400,000 mile club Toyota owners know the lubes must be changed much more frequently than the manufacturer suggests to get that kind of componet durability.

In some ways modern drivetrain components are more fragile than ever. For example, the electronic shift control solenoids inside modern Toyota transmissions have little built in filters that can become restricted and cause the solenoids to stick or fail at around 150,000 miles if the fluid is never or rarely changed. And the 2007 on up Tundras have dirt and deposit sensitive hydraulic valve lifters, unlike the less sensitive mechanical lifters of older Toyota pickups. The 2007 on up Tundra 5.7 V8 also has a timing chain (4 of them, actually) and historically, Toyota chain mechanisms have developed mechanical problems prematurely if the owners stretched oil change intervals beyond 3000-5000 miles.
Thanks for putting WildBill in his place :p but...you're scaring me.

"...transmissions with built in (and unchangeable) filters that become restricted..."
"...dirt and deposit sensitive hydraulic valve lifters..."
"...chain mechanisms and mechanical problems prematurely..." :eek:
 

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As far as oil changes, you'll need one of these: K-D Tools 3253 - 65mm End Cap Oil Filter Wrench
Its the tool to remove the oil filter cap. Tundra's use a cartridge filter. They're pretty cheap online at Sparks Toyota and probably a few other places. Most people will switch to full synthetic like Mobil 1 or Pennzoil synthetic. Get them at walmart. Or Amsoil which you can order online and have delivered right to your door (AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide - 2009%7cTOYOTA%7cTUNDRA%7c6). With synthetic oil you can possibly go to 10k between changes if you dont tow a large trailer or work the engine like a dog. Might want to get all of the crush washers at the dealer first. Change the front/rear differentials and transfer case every 15k or every year with synthetics. And you'll need a good flexible grease gun with moly based lithium for the 4x4 shaft. 8 fittings, every 15k or 1 yr. Rotate the tires couple of times a year. Replace the stock air filter with the aFE Pro-Dry permanent, washable filter from here... AFE Pro-Dry S Air Filters. And replace the tranny fluid say every 15k or once a year. That's a weird design, you can only get out few quarts each time.

Good luck.
Bigmoney where are the 8 fittings on the 4x4 drive shaft. I have read here that the 2007 and up have only 5 and I did mine last weekend and all I found were 5. I found 2 on the front shaft,front and back universal joints; 3 on the rear shaft front, back and middle u-joints. Please let me know where the other 3 are so that I can get them too.

Thanks,
 

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Bigmoney where are the 8 fittings on the 4x4 drive shaft. I have read here that the 2007 and up have only 5 and I did mine last weekend and all I found were 5. I found 2 on the front shaft,front and back universal joints; 3 on the rear shaft front, back and middle u-joints. Please let me know where the other 3 are so that I can get them too.

Thanks,
OK, the front shaft (the one that drives the front wheels) is called the propeller shaft and has one fitting at each end of it. Guess you found those. The big giant double-cardan joint in the middle of the main drive shaft has three fittings in it. Looks like you found that too. The front of the drive shaft starting at the rear of the transfer case has a universal joint with a fitting inside of it. At the very rear of the drive shaft, right at the rear diff, there is another universal joint with one fitting inside of it.

This might help...

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/158445-grease-fitting-front-propeller-shaft-4wd/#post1237835

scroll down to number 20. There's a diagram there. Looks like there may be only 7 zerks! My bad.
 

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OK, the front shaft (the one that drives the front wheels) is called the propeller shaft and has one fitting at each end of it. Guess you found those. The big giant double-cardan joint in the middle of the main drive shaft has three fittings in it. Looks like you found that too. The front of the drive shaft starting at the rear of the transfer case has a universal joint with a fitting inside of it. At the very rear of the drive shaft, right at the rear diff, there is another universal joint with one fitting inside of it.

This might help...

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/158445-grease-fitting-front-propeller-shaft-4wd/#post1237835

scroll down to number 20. There's a diagram there. Looks like there may be only 7 zerks! My bad.
Your right I found the ones on the propeller shaft. The 3 I found on the rear shaft are 1 at the rear differential, 1 at the front by the transfer case and 1 on the universal joint in the middle of the shaft by the center support bearing. Mine has the 3 joint drive shaft. In a previous post I was told that the 07 and newer Tundra's don't have the double-cardan joint. Couldn't find the three zerks for it. Thought it might be under the boot but didn't want to open the boot unless I knew for sure. Is there a zerk for the support bearing that I am missing?

Thanks,
 

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In a previous post I was told that the 07 and newer Tundra's don't have the double-cardan joint.
Thanks,
No double cardan joint!!!!! Oh no, if it wasn't Easter Sunday I'd be under the rig right now looking. If its not there its not there. Sorry about that. Now I have to wait until after church.
 

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No double cardan joint!!!!! Oh no, if it wasn't Easter Sunday I'd be under the rig right now looking. If its not there its not there. Sorry about that. Now I have to wait until after church.
bigMoney have a look at this post. Down at the end of the 1st page is a sheet from Dana that shows the grease points. No double-cardan joint and 5 grease points. Just found this today.

http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/tundra/118152-4x4-front-drive-shaft-grease-fittings/
 

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No offense taken. Thanks for posting the doc too. I only do maybe 12,000 miles a year and I think a year is a long enough interval before changing various fluids. And you are correct WildBilly, I'm just stuck in the old school when it comes to maintenance. But rotating tires at every oil change? C'mon that's too rententive even for me! Say every 10k or 15k should suffice.
I always rotate the tires at every 5k oil change, every 7.5k on our Pilot. It's what the maintenance schedule suggests. My tires last an average of 45k, I must be doing something right.....
 
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