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Hi guys,

A couple weeks ago my truck suddenly stalled while parking....... nothing to worry i thought...... then last week cel came on....... I disconnected the negative battery cable to reset the ecu..... and tried to start.....started then died......started then stalled...... had to keek my foot on the gas to keep the engine running...... i was very low on fuel by the way....... I filled the tank and replaced the fuel filter (it was very, very dirty...... almost clogged the tech said). It was running fine since then (some knocking when passing other vehicles). On saturday the cel came on again..... today the cel cleared itself but got the code ripped.....P0505 Idle Control System Malfunction....... I searched the forum but looking for more inputs.

By the way it idles good now....runs fine with a little knocking like I said. I checked the hoses...... never cleaned the TB or MAF...... first time I replaced the fuel filter..... I was thinking about dropping the Fuel tank to clean it too.

What other things should i check..... any ideas. Thanks.:ts:
 

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I forgot to mention..... Tundra AC 2000 4X4 v8 engine..... 130000miles...... second owner of this baby..... never replaced spark plugs either...... :eek:
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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First, clean the PCV valve. It's in the driver's side. Just follow the wide emissions/evap hose and pull it off the the component. Take it out by rotating it back and forth while giving a gentle pull, being careful to not tear the grommet that holds it in. Give the inside of it a good couple of blasts of carb cleaner. Let it dry. If, when you shake it, the ball inside rattles around, the valve assembly is fine. Reinstall, clear the code, and see if it comes back. If it does, you might have to replace the IAC (idle air control) valve.

Post back what you find.

**NOTE**
You might want to pull one of the spark plugs and check gap. If you don't know when they were last changed, you might want to do yourself a favor and swap in new ones. It's a 30 minute job.
 

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I'll do the plugs on the weekend........ :)

Did i mention that when I start the truck in the morning it starts and then dies..... i have to keep my foot on the gas for 5 seconds then she runs on her own....


Is this the image to the PCV valve? Thanks Remmy
 

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I'll do the plugs on the weekend........ :)

Did i mention that when I start the truck in the morning it starts and then dies..... i have to keep my foot on the gas for 5 seconds then she runs on her own....


Is this the image to the PCV valve? Thanks Remmy
That's the one.

Make sure you do all the simple maintenance things so you aren't chasing your tail, i.e. clean MAF, throttle body, replace plugs, air filter, etc so you don't find out after a long diagnosis marathon the answer was a simple one. Pay particular attention to the vacuum hoses. If one of those is cracked/broken/loose, you'll get idle issues as well.

I have a sneaking suspicion it's the idle air control motor though. The IAC motor is a computer-controlled airflow valve. When the engine is cold, the computer tells the motor to open the valve to allow more airflow so the engine will idle at a higher rpm until it warms up. If it gets clogged with intake debris it will not open or close freely.

Remove the assembly from the outside of the throttle body. It has four phillips head screws holding it. Take the casing apart; it looks like a rotating slide valve. Clean it out with carb cleaner, making sure it opens and closes freely. Reinstall with a new o-ring from the dealer, pull the negative terminal on the battery for 15-20 minutes, hook it back up and try it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's the one.

Make sure you do all the simple maintenance things so you aren't chasing your tail, i.e. clean MAF, throttle body, replace plugs, air filter, etc so you don't find out after a long diagnosis marathon the answer was a simple one. Pay particular attention to the vacuum hoses. If one of those is cracked/broken/loose, you'll get idle issues as well.

I have a sneaking suspicion it's the idle air control motor though. The IAC motor is a computer-controlled airflow valve. When the engine is cold, the computer tells the motor to open the valve to allow more airflow so the engine will idle at a higher rpm until it warms up. If it gets clogged with intake debris it will not open or close freely.

Remove the assembly from the outside of the throttle body. It has four phillips head screws holding it. Take the casing apart; it looks like a rotating slide valve. Clean it out with carb cleaner, making sure it opens and closes freely. Reinstall with a new o-ring from the dealer, pull the negative terminal on the battery for 15-20 minutes, hook it back up and try it.
Some of the vacuum hoses are kind of loose to me..... very easy to unplug..... some are cracked at the end..... i'll replace them.......I'll see if I can find the oring for the throtle body..... no tundra dealers in Bolivia :( ..... i'll get a can of carb cleaner and clean the the parts u mentioned earlier).
 

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Well a few minutes ago I replaced the air filter....... cleaned the TB, lots of gum was there, pretty nasty used carb cleaner and a rag to remove the stuff........ removed the PCV valve too was almost clogged as well, rattled barely..... now the tiny thing inside rattles clean and louder....... disconnected the neg battery while the entire procedure.......replaced cracked vacuum hose..... reconnected everything back and started the truck...... runned fine a with a little high idle..... before I had about 500RPM or sometimes a hair above.... now 900RPM..... i'll post if anything develops later........

Tomorrow the plugs....... I got some Denso Double Platinum, are these ok? what about the gap? Thanks for the inputs Remmy you're a very helpful and knowledge guy. :cool:
 

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Well a few minutes ago I replaced the air filter....... cleaned the TB, lots of gum was there, pretty nasty used carb cleaner and a rag to remove the stuff........ removed the PCV valve too was almost clogged as well, rattled barely..... now the tiny thing inside rattles clean and louder....... disconnected the neg battery while the entire procedure.......replaced cracked vacuum hose..... reconnected everything back and started the truck...... runned fine a with a little high idle..... before I had about 500RPM or sometimes a hair above.... now 900RPM..... i'll post if anything develops later........

Tomorrow the plugs....... I got some Denso Double Platinum, are these ok? what about the gap? Thanks for the inputs Remmy you're a very helpful and knowledge guy. :cool:
Sounds like you fixed it! Excellent news!

I suggest either the stock Densos or NGK #BKR6EIX Iridium IX plugs. Gap is 0.032. If you get the Iridiums, do not adjust. They are factory pregapped, and attempting to adjust them will break the electrode.

Don't worry about the high idle. That happens after servicing the throttle body. The ECU will take a little while (up to several days) to adjust to the appropriate idle level. :tu:
 

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Just replaced plugs used Denso Double Platinum, I already bought the sparks in the morning before u posted the gap recommended, I just realized that the gap in the ones I just installed is 0.044 (1.1mm). :( is there something wrong about using different gapped sparks? There are no 0.032(0.8mm) available, at least here. Should I take them out and close the gap a little? (Can i close the gap?) The truck is running great by the way.
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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Just replaced plugs used Denso Double Platinum, I already bought the sparks in the morning before u posted the gap recommended, I just realized that the gap in the ones I just installed is 0.044 (1.1mm). :( is there something wrong about using different gapped sparks? There are no 0.032(0.8mm) available, at least here. Should I take them out and close the gap a little? (Can i close the gap?) The truck is running great by the way.
According to my information, the 2UZFE (4.7L) is specced to run with plugs at a 0.032 gap. The 5VZFE (V6) asks for the 0.044 gap. I am also under the impression that the older, non-VVTi engines should not be run with Platinums. I dunno all the details on that one...
 

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My truck, 2001 Sequoia, 230,000 miles, had the CEL on and was showing the p0505 code. I took off my PCV valve, cleaned it with carb cleaner and a toothbrush and it seemed to fix it right up.

Many thanks to everyone who takes the time to share their experiences. I have fixed several things for little or no money thanks to the shared knowledge of others.
 
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