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Discussion Starter #1
I took a lot of pictures so just ask if you guys need help installing.

I started this little project at 3:30 pm and was racing against time before the rain came!:cool:

Here's how I did it:


1. jack up one side of truck and place it on jack stands. Remove wheels. 21mm socket

2. Remove the 4 bolts that connect the LCA to the wheel assembly/spindle. 17mm socket

3. Remove the one nut that connects the stabilizer bar to the LCA. 14mm deep socket. At this point I placed my jack under the LCA to help support it. But I did let it drop down a bit so it can have some room for Step 5.

4. Remove the 3 bolts on the top of the coilover. 14mm shallow socket.

5. Now remove the nut from the lower mounting point on the coilover. 19mm socket. The bolt wil still be stuck in there. To pull it out push down on the LCA using a long pry bar and push the bolt through with a metal rod about the size of the stock bolt while using a impact gun on the other size of the bolt. The coilover should be able to slide right out now.

6. Now install the new Donahoe coilover starting with the 3 top bolts first.

7. To install the lower bolt you will have to push down on the LCA again with your pry bar. Remember to install the bolt with the bolt head closer to the rear of the truck and the nut and washer closer to the front of the truck. Also the smaller metal bushing that Donahoe provides should also be installed towards the front of the truck.

8. Reinstall the stabilizer nut and the four bolts that connect the LCA to the spindle.

9. Torque everything to spec.

10. Reinstall wheel.

11. Follow steps 1-10 on the other side.

12. Now you are done!

Torque Values:

Lug nuts: 83 ft. lbs.
LCA to spindle: 59ft. lbs.
Stabilizer bar to LCA: 14 ft. lbs.
Top coilover bolts: 47 ft. lbs.
Lower coilover bolt: 100 ft. lbs.

I'll try to post pics soon.:D
 

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Mod formerly known as tpgn00
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So what's your first impression of the donahoes? I know that when I first installed mine it was night and day.
 

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Nice choice Mazu. I installed mine two months ago and love them. I had them on my tacoma, and now on my tundra and the ride is awesome.

What part of Big Island are you in? I'm moving to Kona in a month. Bringing the Tundra with me!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Nice choice Mazu. I installed mine two months ago and love them. I had them on my tacoma, and now on my tundra and the ride is awesome.

What part of Big Island are you in? I'm moving to Kona in a month. Bringing the Tundra with me!

Yeah I had these Donahoes on my 02 Tacoma. Once I got my Tundra I sent them back to Donahoe to get revalved and re-worked on. I blew a couple of seals when they were on my Taco.:D It only cost me a total of $150 shipped back and forth including the parts and labor. Donahoe has great turn around time cause I had my coilovers back in 5 days!!


Yeah the ride is awesome just as I expected from them. But I think I still need to jack them up to level out the truck. I have 2" of thread showing and the truck still is about 5/8" lower in the front than the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So what's your first impression of the donahoes? I know that when I first installed mine it was night and day.
This is kinda like my second impression of the Donahoes since I had these same coilovers on my Taco.:D But yes the difference is night and day.:tu:
 

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So Donahoe just uses the same springs when going from a Tacoma to a Tundra? They just have to be revalved to work? I thought that the springs would have to be changed because of the weight of a V8. Is your truck a V8? I am planning on taking my SAWs off my Tacoma before I trade it in and I was wondering what woould have to be done to them to put them on the Tundra I am planning on getting or my Sequoia.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes the valving is different for the tundra from the tacoma. Also the top mounting plate has 6 threaded holes. One set of 3 holes is for the Tacoma and the other set is for the Tundra.

And yes I have a Dub Cab V8 4wd.
 

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I knew the valving was different for the Tundra and my SAWs do have two sets of mounting holes, but I am suprised that the springs are the same for both trucks. I learn something new everyday on this site. :ts:
 

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I knew the valving was different for the Tundra and my SAWs do have two sets of mounting holes, but I am suprised that the springs are the same for both trucks. I learn something new everyday on this site. :ts:

they both use a 650lb spring.
 

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Remember Donahoe Shocks have

An increase of 30% on a Tacoma and 15% on a Tundra on increased spring-rate for ALL Donahoe Coilover' Coil Springs.

This equates to 750 lbs each for the Tundra
Stock Coils are 650 lbs for the tundra

The 100 extra lbs per coil is there for people intending to put extra weight in front and being able to still MASH on it on the trails/desert.

Personally I think 750 lbs springs are perfect. Others have done this with the SAW shocks by putting on the 750lb coil springs on the SAW coilovers as they felt it needed it for all the weight compared to the Tacoma.

That or stiffening/changing the properties/proportions of the valving in the Coilovers if you're up to the task of taking everything apart.

But this is why you buy the Donahoe Shocks over the SAW's
 

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Ever the explorer
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Be careful assuming it can make a [email protected]# outa ya.

My 06 D6 TRD has 750lbers from the factory, this was verified through the part numbers off of my build sheet and confirmed with Coilsprings.com.
 

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Be careful assuming it can make a [email protected]# outa ya.

My 06 D6 TRD has 750lbers from the factory, this was verified through the part numbers off of my build sheet and confirmed with Coilsprings.com.
Well I'm going off of what I've read over the past 2 years. It says this exactly as I've posted.

Donahoe's Site says the same deal of the increase in spring rate for the coil's spring rate. Maybe there's more but , it is an increase

Donahoe coilovers are stiffer than SAW's or factory OEM stuff.
I know because I beat the crap out of my stock suspension's coils and shocks after 30,000 miles (only a couple hard offroading will do it) . The front shocks were shot and the rears were blown out.

Here's proof:SWAY-A-WAY - axles, torsion bars, and shocks for trucks, cars, and off-road vehicles
Why would they put less coil rate on over your stock 06 DC's coil rate.... maybe DC's have more weight though? (go to bottom of the page/look at coil rate).
Donahoe is advertising a 15% increase over stock.

It will be this formula if the suppose'd stock coil rate vs his advertised extra 15% increase
Stock: 500lb + 15%= 575 lb. (noway)
Stock: 550lb + 15%= 632 lb. (maybe)
Stock: 575lb + 15%= 660 lb. (If it is 650 for the Donahoes' THIS is the stock coil rate... 575 lbs.)
Stock: 600lb + 15%= 690 lb.
Stock: 650lb + 15%= 747.5 lb (Why I say its 750 lbs for the Donahoes)
Stock: 750lb + 15%= 862.5lb ( Wow , I got some heavy duty coils then if stock is 750 for mine too with the 15% increase)

Who Knows for sure????? All I know is it is stiffer for sure over stock Access cab coils. Using the above formula for whatever the stock coils Really Are.

You still can add extra weight for an ARB bumper, Road Armor, etc Aftermarket Heavy Duty bumper if they really use the extra spring rate over stock. Which is 170-200 lbs you could be able to add.
 

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Ever the explorer
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I am not disputing any of the Donahue info........

Just advising that evidently Toyota put different spring rates on certain Tundras. Not all have 650 lb springs.
Maybe but I doubt it that mustang gave me bad info that I gave to Coilsprings.com who in turn advised I have the 750 rate from the factory.
So maybe we need to start a new thread and hammer this topic till its black and blue and discover who's telling the truth. :)
 

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I am not disputing any of the Donahue info........

Just advising that evidently Toyota put different spring rates on certain Tundras. Not all have 650 lb springs.
Maybe but I doubt it that mustang gave me bad info that I gave to Coilsprings.com who in turn advised I have the 750 rate from the factory.
So maybe we need to start a new thread and hammer this topic till its black and blue and discover who's telling the truth. :)
x2 on getting this cleared up
 

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Ever the explorer
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Yes with my springs I figured the bumper at 150lbs winch at 125 thats 275 additional plus skid row skid plates, stubbs sliders all adds up
I ordered the springs and advised them I was adding 275 lbs to the front end. which I beleive would take the 750's up to a whopping 888lb ers.
 

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Yes with my springs I figured the bumper at 150lbs winch at 125 thats 275 additional plus skid row skid plates, stubbs sliders all adds up
I ordered the springs and advised them I was adding 275 lbs to the front end. which I beleive would take the 750's up to a whopping 888lb ers.
whoa! whoever is compressing those springs has some....:eek:
 

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OK now you fellows are getting confusing. So if I took my SAWs off of my V6 Tacoma and plan on putting them on my V8 Sequoia (stock bumper no extra wieght on front end) would I have to change anything other than the valving or do the springs need to be changed? :ts:


BTW sorry for the thread jack Mazutoytundra. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
HEY STOP JACKING MY THREAD!!! :mad: :rolleyes:



Nah just kidding guys. :D

I'm interested in this info too. I would also suspect that the coilspring rate be greater for the Tundra cause of it's extra weight. My Dub Cab Tundra is about 2000 lbs heavier than my 02 Tacoma so I can't see how Donahoe can use the same spring for both coilovers. Maybe I'll just give Donahoe a call one day and figure this all out. Kreg and the guys at Donahoe are really helpful.:tu:
 

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I took a lot of pictures so just ask if you guys need help installing.

I started this little project at 3:30 pm and was racing against time before the rain came!:cool:

Here's how I did it:


1. jack up one side of truck and place it on jack stands. Remove wheels. 21mm socket

2. Remove the 4 bolts that connect the LCA to the wheel assembly/spindle. 17mm socket

3. Remove the one nut that connects the stabilizer bar to the LCA. 14mm deep socket. At this point I placed my jack under the LCA to help support it. But I did let it drop down a bit so it can have some room for Step 5.

4. Remove the 3 bolts on the top of the coilover. 14mm shallow socket.

5. Now remove the nut from the lower mounting point on the coilover. 19mm socket. The bolt wil still be stuck in there. To pull it out push down on the LCA using a long pry bar and push the bolt through with a metal rod about the size of the stock bolt while using a impact gun on the other size of the bolt. The coilover should be able to slide right out now.

6. Now install the new Donahoe coilover starting with the 3 top bolts first.

7. To install the lower bolt you will have to push down on the LCA again with your pry bar. Remember to install the bolt with the bolt head closer to the rear of the truck and the nut and washer closer to the front of the truck. Also the smaller metal bushing that Donahoe provides should also be installed towards the front of the truck.

8. Reinstall the stabilizer nut and the four bolts that connect the LCA to the spindle.

9. Torque everything to spec.

10. Reinstall wheel.

11. Follow steps 1-10 on the other side.

12. Now you are done!

Torque Values:

Lug nuts: 83 ft. lbs.
LCA to spindle: 59ft. lbs.
Stabilizer bar to LCA: 14 ft. lbs.
Top coilover bolts: 47 ft. lbs.
Lower coilover bolt: 100 ft. lbs.

I'll try to post pics soon.:D

I used these to install my SAW 2.5 today and it worked perfect! Not sure I would've done it without these instructions. Took me 2.5 hours without help.

THANKS!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Congrats! I'm glad my little "how-to" helped you out. :cool:


Maybe I should post up some pics of the install like I promised.:rolleyes:
 
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