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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was towing a trailer with my '02 Tundra SR5 EC. While backing up the, gauges and air suddenly shut off. I traced this back to the fuse. Now every time I turn the truck on, the fuse blows immediately. I thought it was the trailer, but it continually blows the fuse even after I dropped the trailer .I was wondering if anybody has any ideas about what to do, or has run into this issue before

Please help, I don't have any A/C and it's getting hot in Vegas!

:flame:
 

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2010 Tundra/2015 4 Runner/2007 Prius
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which fuse keeps blowing?
The "GAUGE" fuse feeds the a/c control panel, or is it the "A/C" fuse?
Thanks
 

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The "GAUGE " fuse runs all these circuits.
ABS
Air Conditioning
Back−Up Light
Cargo Light
Charging
Combination Meter
Cruise Control (2UZ−FE)
Door Lock Control
Electronically Controlled Transmission and A/T Indicator (2UZ−FE)
Engine Control (2UZ−FE)
Headlight (w/ Daytime Running Light)
Integration Control and Panel
Interior Light
Key Reminder and Seat Belt Warning
Starting
Trailer Towing
Wiper and Washer (w/ Int Time SW Mechanism)
Wiper and Washer (w/o Int Time SW Mechanism)
4WD (2UZ−FE)

I would start with the REVERSE LIGHTS and trailer wiring, looking for shorts like ERIC said, then go to the A/C.
Have you done any aftermarket wiring? Soemtimes people pinch wires behind the a/c control panel when doing radios or behind the combination meter when doing gauges or???
Aftermarket alarm?
Something tied into a the GAUGE power wire. Looks to be BLACK/YELLOW wire
 

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You might want to pull the back up light relay to eliminate that circuit as a possibility. Edit.....never mind, the relay looks to be below the fuse block and I don't know exactly where. If you want to look, it has the following color wires: black with yellow stripe, red with black stripe, white with black stripe and another red with black stripe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions. Haven't had a chance to check the wiring, but that is what I suspected the issue was.

I have run into another symptom. Last night after taking the truck out on a drive, it started idling really low when I would come to a stop. It almost died on me a couple of times. Also, while I was driving the radio completely cut out one me (from lack of power I presume). Is there anyway that these 2 are related?

I replaced the battery terminals a few months back because the old ones had worn down so bad they were barely making any contact. Now there isn't any slack in the cables. I plan on replacing them ASAP. Could this be the issue?

I am looking for any advice, trying to avoid having to take the truck in to a shop.
 

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Battery bad?
Throttle body dirty (stalling)
Radio cut out = low electricity, battery bad?
I'd start by checking the battery and connections.
Check all fuses.
Make sure alt is charging properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just got a brand new battery. I will take the alternator out and have it tested. Do you think there is any relation to the fuse problem and the battery issue? I also just cleaned the throttle body and it appeared to help, I only took it on a few short drives, nothing like last night.

Thanks again for all your help
 

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The Gauge fuse does have something to do with the ALT, if the alt is shorted might be something to look into.
 

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I will take the alternator out and have it tested.

You dont need to take the alternator out to test it. Get a voltmeter and measure the voltage across the battery with the truck running, it should be between 14.4 and 14.8, that is normal. If you read between 12-13 your alternator is not charging/working. With the truck off you should read 12.65 at %100 charge, 12.45 at %75 charge.


Your short or partial short is most likely occuring while the truck is off also, draining your battery. Your radio shut off because the voltage got to low and thats why the truck started to shut off, the output of the alternator is at min output at idle and also under a partial short, when you give it gas you increase your output power, which in turn keeps your truck going. Thats my best guess for now. Check your alternator and post back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So I went to turn on my truck and found out the battery is dead. Looks like I'll be replacing the alternator this weekend. I'll post an update after that is done, but I am 99% sure the alternator is the problem.

Thanks for all the help guys.
 

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So I went to turn on my truck and found out the battery is dead. Looks like I'll be replacing the alternator this weekend. I'll post an update after that is done, but I am 99% sure the alternator is the problem.

Thanks for all the help guys.
Why don't you disconnect the altenator, charge the battery and see what happens?
 

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what did you measure for voltage at the battery with the truck running?

You could just have a continuous low current short, the alternator could be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
what did you measure for voltage at the battery with the truck running?

You could just have a continuous low current short, the alternator could be fine.
I was unable to measure the voltage on the battery. I guess I can go and exchange the battery again and test this week. I'll post the results as soon as I have them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So I am replacing my alternator. I have all the bolts out, but when I try to take off the ALT there is a pulley in the way. How do I get around the pulley? Please help!!!
 

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I only recommend TOYOTA ones, PM me your VIN and I will get you a TOYOTA TS member price. If your looking for an aftermarket I am sure someone else here can recommend, as I do not know about that, we have never had good luck with aftermarket ones so we do not use them, I even run a Toyota alt on my Mustang.
 
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