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Discussion Starter #1
It has been ~16 years since I have been involved with or posted on this website. My 2001 Tundra will be 19 years in about a week and it remains my daily driver. I only have ~107000 miles on it.

About 8 years ago, I discovered my horn did not work during a safety inspection. I looked over the circuitry (not that complicated), and thought I diagnosed the problem. I spent $200+ to replace the spiral cable or "clock spring" only to find that I still had an intermittent horn. Using an ohmmeter, I discovered that the brilliant Toyota engineers assumed the steering wheel would make its ground connection through the steering shaft/bearings/column. Logical---but stupid assumption. I sprayed DeoxIT down the shaft after removing the new spiral cable and pulling the steering wheel for a second time. Note, there was no way the Toyota Dealer would give a refund for an electrical part. Problem was solved for several years......until the problem, not surprisingly, reared its head again.

I have read other comments about this problem--others paying $$$ to replace spiral cable and someone here getting a quote for >$500 to replace the steering shaft/column.

I looked at the 2001 Electrical Diagram Manual again and found a simple, elegant solution, especially if you are comfortable with electronics and can solder.

It so happens one of the wires (white with black stripe) from the Cruise Control which is mounted to the steering wheel is ground. This white/black wire feeds through the spiral cable to ground by the driver's kick panel. All I did was carefully remove a short segment of the black sleeving surrounding the red and white/black wires, and then skin the white/black wire so as to expose the wire without damaging the wire itself. I then wrapped and soldered a short piece of 18 AWG wire to the white/black wire. The new wire is ~6" long. I then crimped and soldered a lug on the end of the new wire and secured it under a screw holding other pieces to the steering wheel casting. That is it. You can wrap the connection with electrical tape if you want. The steering wheel is now grounded through the spiral cable. I removed the steering wheel in the process, but in fact, I didn't need to. All that you would need to do is remove the steering wheel airbag---> [(2) T30 Torx screws] and to make this repair.

If you have a later model Tundra or Sequoia, you can check this wire with an ohmmeter to confirm it is ground. I would suggest removing the negative from the battery cable to be safe before verifying.

Also note, the Cruise Control works fine. No issues. Note that the horn signal wire goes to the Integration Relay (by the driver's kick panel) and you can hear the horn relay trigger (in the Integration Relay) when you press the horn. This wire does not handle the full current of the horn.

See attached a photo. You can see my wire splice and lug. In the photo, it almost appears as though you might be able to capture the white/black wire under the Phillips head screw thereby avoiding an extra wire, lug and soldering. I think you will be happier doing it my way.

What is even more irritating is that the spiral cable has an unused pin/wire in it and Toyota could have easily added a redundant ground connection. Anything to save money. I love Toyota and Boeing (sorry for the digression), but it seems to be a recurring theme that these large company's come up with half-baked ideas and piss-poor engineering designs on critical safety items seemingly just to save a few $.

Perhaps the actual problem is they just don't make engineers like they used to.

IZL



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