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Discussion Starter #1
They told me that the Polk 2-way DB651s shallows would NOT fit in the rear of my 2010 TUNDRA DC, because of the tweeter being to high off the speaker, so the panel wouldnt go back on right....Can anyone confirm or deny this???? I am looking to do the 2-way DB651 (regulars in the front) with the stock tweeters, and the DB651s shallows in the rear. Any help is great, thanks.

Polk Audio db651s 6-1/2" 2-way shallow-mount car speakers at Crutchfield.com
 

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Just try it, its crutchfield...they will take them back so what do you have to lose?
 

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Those are the correct adapters for DC or CrewMax. The big ones are for the fronts and the smaller triangle shaped ones are for the rear doors.
 

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I just put the DB651 regulars in the back doors of my DC and they fit easily using 1/4" thick mounting plates. I know the DB651S will fit even easier because it is basically the same speaker except that the tweeter does not stick out as far (trust me on this, I spoke directly with Polk on this very subject). I actually didn't like the way that my 1/4" plates came out so I'm about to build some 1/2" mounting plates to replace them with which will still give me plenty of room behind the door panel.

-Wes
 

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I can see them being wrong. Someone from crutchfiled posts on yahoo answers all the time and he said that it is bad to under power a subwoofer, which is not the case. It is a common myth. You could make them fit its worth a try.
 

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If you haven't purchased yet, I would just go for the regular DB651 in the rear. They offer better frequency response and a little better power handling all for the same price.

-Wes
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So I get that the rear speakers are good with regular DB651, so now my big question is for those that have put the DB6501 component system in the fronts...how did you do your install??? Mostly how did place your tweeters???
 

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I installed new speakers in the rear doors, you will need to fabricate your own bracket using the stock toyota speaker/bracket system. You bascially just cut out the OEM speaker from the bracket and mount the new speaker inside the OEM bracket. It works well, I haven't had any issues yet "knock on wood"

Best tool to use for cutting out the bracket is a dremel.
 

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So I get that the rear speakers are good with regular DB651, so now my big question is for those that have put the DB6501 component system in the fronts...how did you do your install??? Mostly how did place your tweeters???
I'm going to make my own mid range mounts out of either 1/2" Baltic birch or 3/4" MDF(well sealed of course) but that will all depend on the depth I find once I get the stock speaker out. Since the component mid doesn't have a tweeter, you could probably space it out of the door pretty far since nothing is protruding to hit the inside of the door panel. As for the tweeter, there appears to be enough room behind the factory sail panel to flush mount the tweeters that come with the DB6501. I plan on using a hole saw to cut a hole to fit the tweeter cup into. Just pull on the sail panel (the triangular piece of trim behind where the side mirror mounts) to pop it off and you'll see what I mean about the space. Another thing people are doing is ordering the factory JBL sail panels which have a bit more space for a tweeter and then mounting them in there. Like I said, it appears that there will be enough space behind the stock sail panel and they are cheap enough to replace if you want to return the truck to stock.

-Wes
 

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So I get that the rear speakers are good with regular DB651, so now my big question is for those that have put the DB6501 component system in the fronts...how did you do your install??? Mostly how did place your tweeters???
That is exactly what I have, though I had Crutchfield do the installation. It works fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Would it be wise to use the DB651 regulars in the rear and the shallows for the fronts??? Would there be any sound difference from two sets of 2-ways and the factory tweeters??? Eventually, I will run a amp for the speakers w/sub. Plus, I already have the Alpine HU.
 

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Would it be wise to use the DB651 regulars in the rear and the shallows for the fronts??? Would there be any sound difference from two sets of 2-ways and the factory tweeters??? Eventually, I will run a amp for the speakers w/sub. Plus, I already have the Alpine HU.
See my sig for what I am running
 

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Would it be wise to use the DB651 regulars in the rear and the shallows for the fronts??? Would there be any sound difference from two sets of 2-ways and the factory tweeters??? Eventually, I will run a amp for the speakers w/sub. Plus, I already have the Alpine HU.
IMO the sound difference would be minimal, especially if you have a sub. The ratings for the speakers are very close, both are rated at 92db sensitivity, RMS wattage is a little different as well, the slims handle 55rms and the regulars handle 60rms. Frequency response ranges are a little different as well. Regulars are rated at 35hz-22khz and the slims are rated at 50hz-22khz. Like I said, if you are running a sub, you could cross over the signals to the db's around 120hz anyway and the low end won't be as much of a difference. Good luck.
 

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Would it be wise to use the DB651 regulars in the rear and the shallows for the fronts??? Would there be any sound difference from two sets of 2-ways and the factory tweeters??? Eventually, I will run a amp for the speakers w/sub. Plus, I already have the Alpine HU.
Like has been said, you probably won't notice a difference between the way both models sound but if you are eventually going to add an amplifier it would probably be better to go ahead and install the DB6501 even if they will be a bit underpowered. Another issue you will have with new speakers in the front doors while still running the factory dash speakers is that it will throw your impedance off. Since the dash and front door speakers are run in parallel, the door speakers are probably 8 ohms. If you throw some new 4 ohm speakers in there and run them in parallel with the 8 ohm dash speakers then you will end up with a 2.67 ohm load instead of the recommended 4 ohm load. This may or may not be an issue but is something you should be aware of. When I go to install my DB6501s I'm going to completely bypass the dash speakers since they aren't in the best spot for acoustics anyway.

-Wes
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am looking around now for the JBL sail panels, I think that it will work better with the component install. I know that no install is ever perfect, but I will go with the Polk 6501s in the front and the 651 (regular) in the rear. If anyone has a place that sells the panel for cheap let me know, 'preciate it. Its been a hard decision to go on about, and ALOT of research, plus all of you putting your 2cents in. I think that the best quality sound will come from the work that will be put into trying to situate the tweeters. Next is the decision on the best budget/quality friendly AMP and SUB w/enclosure.
 

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I am looking around now for the JBL sail panels, I think that it will work better with the component install. I know that no install is ever perfect, but I will go with the Polk 6501s in the front and the 651 (regular) in the rear. If anyone has a place that sells the panel for cheap let me know, 'preciate it. Its been a hard decision to go on about, and ALOT of research, plus all of you putting your 2cents in. I think that the best quality sound will come from the work that will be put into trying to situate the tweeters. Next is the decision on the best budget/quality friendly AMP and SUB w/enclosure.
The place to get those would probably be TRD Sparks. From what I remember, they are about $30/each. My favorite amp right now is the Zed Audio Leviathan but if I were looking into some more economical it would be the Arc Audio KS amps. As for the sub, you'll have to get a bit creative in the DC. Several run shallow mount 10's or 12's but I've chosen to run rear firing standard depth 8's.

-Wes
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yeah, I was looking at the JL W1 models for a sub, hits hard enough and affordable. Plus as far as subs go I have never heard a bad thing about JLs subs messing up too bad. I will more likely go with the 8" for the fact of space, but first thing is first and that is to get the Polk system running, cuz the stock speakers are driving me freaking nuts with how weak they are with the Alpine headunit. I will have to get intouch with Toyota to see if they can hook me up, the nearest SPARKS is like almost an hour or more away from me.
 
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