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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title describes I have reading everything and anything related.

Problem: Had 3/1 lift and stock tires for years with no issue. Installed 285/75-R18 Toyo's and now VSC goes off around almost every corner above 20mph.

I have done the reset w/o TechStream in every possible order including after battery disconnects. I've also tried the shim trick with shims from 1/16" to 9/16". I've tried raising the rear end with my airbags to stock angles and higher. All of this on perfect level surface, incline, decline, sideways, backwards and forwards, pretty much the works except upside down.

I change nothing. Every time I hit a corner over 20-25mph the damn VSC kicks in. The last thing I can think of is a relationship with the TPMS. While changing tires a TPMS sensor was broken. The shop did not have the capabilities to reg the sensor in the TPMS ECU so my light flashes for a minute then goes solid.

Is it possible the two are intertwined? Is it possible it is what it is and with the lift and tires I have to drive like a FBO granny gettin' on and off the freeway?

Help please, leaving for Mendocino Thursday morning and would like to make it there in 3hrs instead of 4hrs to make it the water for some early evening tight line action with a few lings and abs.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I think that they are two separate issues.:(
(1) The TPMS will flash for 1 minute and go on if it cannot communicate with one or more sensors so one is not working or not registered in the ECU.
(2) The VSC issue sounds like a classic case of needing Zero Point calibration. I have no idea why it did not show up when you did the lift.
 

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The two systems are totally unrelated. There is a TSB that may apply, pasted it below. Others may have more info.

T-SB-0020-08 March 25, 2008

Disconnect Battery & Perform Zero Point Calibration
After Wheel Alignment Adjustment for VSC Equipped Vehicles

Required Tools & Equipment
REQUIRED EQUIPMENT SUPPLIER PART NUMBER QTY
TIS techstream*
NOTE: Software version 2.20.015 or later is required.
ADE TSPKG1 1
* Essential SST.

• The Toyota Diagnostic Tester and CAN Interface Module may also be used to perform the
service procedures listed in this bulletin.
Preliminary Information
Perform this procedure if any of these repairs have been performed on the vehicle:
• Wheel alignment has been adjusted.
• Any chassis components have been removed/installed or replaced.

Repair Procedure
1. Disconnect the cable from the negative (–) battery terminal for MORE THAN two (2) seconds.
2. Reconnect the cable to the negative (–) battery terminal.
3. Perform the applicable zero point calibration of the yaw rate sensor and/or the steering angle sensor.

(HINT)
Refer to the applicable TSB or Repair Manual for the zero point calibration procedure.
4. Re-initialize all applicable systems available on the vehicle (power window, sunroof, power
lift door, etc.).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the reply gentlemen. However, I have done the zero point calibration.

My understanding is you can do it either with the jumper wire OR the TechStream. Am I not correct? It is stated so on the Toyota documents.
 

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I am guessing your jumper wire technique didn't work. I had the same problems as you. Broken TMPS, VSC going off. I had the zero point done at the dealer for $50.00. It helped a lot, solving 90% of the issues. It still goes off occasionally, but only on right turns while braking and going faster than I really should be anyway.
 

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Thanks for the reply gentlemen. However, I have done the zero point calibration.

My understanding is you can do it either with the jumper wire OR the TechStream. Am I not correct? It is stated so on the Toyota documents.
I have not seen anything that says you can do it with a jumper, but that does not mean that it can't be done.
Here is a link to the Zero Point TSB in PDF format.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/foru...mes-after-rear-zero-point-calibration-tsb.pdf
Question: Did you just put the tires on recently?? Maybe there is more body roll or something??
 

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I installed new 285/75-R18 Toyos on the 5-spoke TRD aluminum wheels, purchased used off Ebay. No TPMS. TPMS light would come on (rather slowly, I might add.) Never had an issue with VSC. Occasionally changed back to the stock steel wheels/tires for short periods. No issue.

Eventually purchased 4 new TPMS from Discount Tire. No issue.

Never did a zero point calibration. Rarely, and with good reason, the VSC kicks in when taking sharp, fast turns. Over 15k miles with the Toyos.
 

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I have not seen anything that says you can do it with a jumper, but that does not mean that it can't be done.
Here is a link to the Zero Point TSB in PDF format.
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/foru...mes-after-rear-zero-point-calibration-tsb.pdf
Question: Did you just put the tires on recently?? Maybe there is more body roll or something??
theres tons of posts about doing it with a jumper wire. if that didnt work obviously the next step would be to do a tech stream reset at the dealer, the jumper wire method always seemed kinda iffy and DIYish to me anyway...fortunately i never had to do it...with my lift or slightly larger tires...neither one caused any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Straight from the Toyota Document attached....

BR001-04
Title:
ZERO POINT CALIBRATION
Models:
’04 4Runner, Camry, Highlander, Land Cruiser,
RAV4, Sienna, Solara, Tundra &
Scion xB with VSC

ZERO POINT CALIBRATION – BR001-04 Revised February 4, 2004
Page 4 of 4
Zero Point Calibration Using SST 09843–18040
The following procedure may be used in the cases where a Diagnostic Tester is
not available.

NOTE:
While performing the Zero Point Calibration, do not tilt, move or shake the vehicle.
The vehicle must remain in a stationary condition throughout the entire process.
Be sure to perform the procedure on a level surface with an inclination of less than 1%.
1. If the vehicle is equipped with A/T, ensure that the shift lever is in the “P” range and
the parking brake is applied. If the vehicle is equipped with a M/T, ensure that the
parking brake is applied.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON.
3. Using SST 09843–18040, repeat a cycle of short and open between terminals Ts and
CG of DLC3 4 times or more within 8 seconds (refer to the specific vehicle EWD for
TS and CG pin location in the DLC3).
4. Verify that the VSC indicator light is lit indicating the recorded zero point is erased.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
6. Be sure the terminals Ts and CG of DLC3 are disconnected.
7. Turn the ignition switch ON.
8. Check that the VSC warning light goes off about 15 seconds after the ignition switch
is turned ON.
9. After ensuring that the VSC warning light remains OFF for 2 seconds, turn the ignition
switch OFF.
10. Connect terminals Ts and CG of DLC3 using SST 09843–18040.
11. Turn the ignition switch ON.
12. After turning the ignition switch ON, check that the VSC warning light is lit for about
4 seconds and then starts quick blinking at 0.13 second intervals.
13. After ensuring the blinking of the VSC warning light for 2 seconds, turn the ignition
switch OFF.
14. Remove the SST from terminals Ts and CG of DLC3.
15. Drive the vehicle for at least 5 minutes to confirm Zero Point Calibration is complete.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Of course, if I cannot DIMS (Do It My Self), I'll take it in to Toyota Service. I just hate to pay $$ for a 5 min job. I was hoping someone else may have experienced the same and learned a lesson to share.

I'll keep trying I guess and see what happens.

Thanks.
 

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This is exactly what I can't stand about new vehicles. Too many electronics that we don't really need. I have never needed a computer with VSC to be able to drive my vehicles. And when those types of systems cause problems, you usually can't fix them your self and have to spend a ton taking it to the shop, hoping they can fix it. If you can, I would say just turn off the VSC.
 

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Any results?? I have 2007 Tundra Crewmax and just installed ReadyLift 2.5" front level and added 325 x 60r18 tires, I get the flashing and beeping VSC light around wide fast corners(FWY on ramps), is the dealer the only way? My dealer wants 1hr labor for "ZERO" calibration, in SOCAL that $135.00.
 

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I have had two Toyo Tire 2007 Tundra customers having same problem. I put factory wheel and tires, no problem. Put his Toyo's back on, vsc around sharp corners. Tires almost same size. I think i have it resolved. Tire pressure from tire store 45 psi. Tires were a 10 ply, lowered tire pressure to 34 psi and can't get the vsc to act up. Too much give sets vsc off, and rigid tire doesn't give enough. I think this is worth trying. My Operations Manager and myself have driven the same course probably 35 times, because we knew we could always duplicate the customers concern and that would be the only way to verify the fix. Customer will call me tommorow and I will post here if it is finally cured.

Bill Eggers Svc Mgr
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Tom.

I don't think there was a doubt that the new tires caused the issue. What you are saying makes sense. However, I would like to run at higher PSI and I should be able to cal. the vsc for the tire and pressure combo.

Also need to spring for the sway-bar. That should reduce a considerable amount of pitch.

I'll try your test to confirm. Can you verify your customers have or have not the sway-bar?
 

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I have had two Toyo Tire 2007 Tundra customers having same problem. I put factory wheel and tires, no problem. Put his Toyo's back on, vsc around sharp corners. Tires almost same size. I think i have it resolved. Tire pressure from tire store 45 psi. Tires were a 10 ply, lowered tire pressure to 34 psi and can't get the vsc to act up. Too much give sets vsc off, and rigid tire doesn't give enough. I think this is worth trying. My Operations Manager and myself have driven the same course probably 35 times, because we knew we could always duplicate the customers concern and that would be the only way to verify the fix. Customer will call me tommorow and I will post here if it is finally cured.

Bill Eggers Svc Mgr
I'm gonna try changing the PSI in my Nitto Trail Grapplers and see if that works. I have a 2010 4.6L and ever since the 3/1.5 leveling kit and new 295/70R18 treads I can't get away from the VSC acting up. I've added the hypertech speedo calibrator, re-calibrated the VSC, shimmed the VSC and nothing. Weird thing is, is that I don't even get it to go off on corners, mine goes of when I'm driving straight! Of course, this is under rapid acceleration though.

Does anyone think this might have anything to do with my 1.5" block in the back? I was also wondering if I changed to a 1" block in the rear if that would have any affect?

I shimmed the VSC module after zero point calibration though, so I'm gonna try and re calibrate again to see if there's any change.

Thanks for all the info
 

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All the "calibration" does is clear the memory. IIRC
 

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Aargh! No followups on tire pressure here? I'm going through this now too and am thinking tire pressure has something to do with it....
 
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