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Discussion Starter #1
Correct me if I'm wrong but the air injection flange should not be this close.


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Did you try putting them on with the original studs? The nut may have a smaller diameter than the bolt head. I don't remember anyone else having this problem. Good luck.
 

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It looks like you might have a problem there. Are you able to even turn the bolt without hitting the bolt head against the air tube?
I installed mine this weekend, but used Stage8 locking bolts, and that one was really close, but I was able to get it on.

You might be sending that one back to JBA.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So I cut out enough of where it was hitting to fit a socket on it, but now the P.O.S. header flange bolt hole on the other end is off just enough where i cant get it to bolt up. JBA Headers have pissed me off good.
 

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I'd see about contating JBA because of this. Besides the rear side bolt having no room due to the air tube, can you even make the connection to the air tube on the header with the air tube that attached to the engine?
If I were you I'd send pics in an email to JBA and get a replacement sent.
 

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now the P.O.S. header flange bolt hole on the other end is off just enough where i cant get it to bolt up. JBA Headers have pissed me off good.
I had the same problem when I installed mine. After fighting it and getting pizzed, I removed a bracket that was in the way on front of the engine. IIRRC, it was the A/C bracket. It went on easily after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I wobbled out the holle on the end, and it fit good after that. it dosent leak either, well on the right side the left side is a different story. The left went on really easyand fit awesome, but I cant get the thing to stop leaking. I think im going to give it a week, tighten it a few more times and if that dosent work then buy new gaskets.
 

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More JBA quality CRAP....

I'd advise nobody ever buy JBA headers from now on.
Buy Doug Thorley or somethin' else.

The raised port JBA uses on the inside of the header flange is stupid as well.

Why they do it is beyond me. It offers worse sealing than having a TRUE flat flange as every other header company out in existance does.

Make the flange a 1/2" thick too and you'll most likely never have problems warping it.

All I had were problems with JBA headers as well. Un-even raised port height on the edges. And...Their Quality Control is non existant since the company merged with another.

STAY away from JBA as of now.

Before others comment on their wonderful set of JBA headers... thats because you had previously bought their headers, yrs back. Having better success when the company cared about QUALITY CONTROL & the JBA name.

All I read now are JBA horror stories and how the header has defects.
 

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I must have gotten a few year old set then, because mine bolted right up with no problems whatsoever. The only problem I had was an opened package of stage 8 locking bolts that I got from Summit, in which someone reaplaced 6 Tundra locking bolts with bolts from a Chevy, Ford or Dodge. I also used remflex gaskets at both ends and have not had any loosening or leaking.

FYI, another overlooked item could be the fact that people may not be torquing their head bolt/nuts properly. You're supposed to start in the middle and work your way out. I hand tightened all of the bolts, then came back and tightened them all to 10 ft/lbs then back again to 20 ft/lbs then back again to the final 33 ft/lbs. By the time you get to the point where you're torquing bolts you're tired, maybe drunk, and just want the job done...so I could see people skipping or hurrying on this set; which is crucial.

I'm more than happy with the results that my JBA headers have given me. The truck, with 275/75/16 TKo's now accelerates better than it did with the original 245/65/16 Duellers. The truck pulls at every speed and I've actually lit up the rear tires on accident accelerating from stops. The truck pulls up the hills I go up on my commute to work, without kicking down a gear or two (it stays in 5th) and doesn't lose speed below 60mph. These headers have done everything I've wanted them to do, and were well worth the money and time installing them.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am probably going to end up buying some remflex gaskets. I pulled the header off again yesterday and reinstalled all the bolts in the proper sequence and torque as I did to begin with. I've installed headers on multiple different engines and rides and these headers have been the worst fitting I've seen, even with the truck being easy to work on.
 

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hi, yes your correct.
after you get it done, and it's over.
it's well worth it. :)

this is why after reading all the post's, threads, & comments members made,
about installing header's, i said i'll pay someone to deal with the headaches.
even my guy said, he would never do a tundra again.
and i gave him all the print out's, just in case.
gorilla
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I enjoy working on my Tundra and Quad, but when the parts dont fit properly that dosent mean I'm going to stop.
 

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The only issue I had with installing the headers, apart from the wrong bolts being shipped, was the lack of room under the truck with my standard sized jack stands. I'll be picking up a set of high lift jack stands sooner than later to resolve that problem. Other than that, I don't understand why people are having such a hard time (excluding the headers out of spec). I guess I must have all the correct tools because it wasn't a big deal as people make it out to be.
Jack the truck up
remove the front tires
take out the curtains in the wheel wells
jack the engine up to take the pressure off of it
remove the two engine mounts
disconnect the cats (use of the impact gun made this a 3 minute job)
take out the manifolds and you're done

My truck is an 06, and I didn't have the usual rusted and breaking off of bolts that I've had on past cars/trucks which were much older. The only thing I didn't like was the use of inverted torx studs on the engine, so I had to go out and buy a set of inverted torx sockets; oh well, I got them on sale at Sears for $15 and I'll have them for the next time I need them.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The truck didnt give me any problems and I didnt even have to jack it up, I just used a low crawler and my skinny ass fit under there pretty easy. Didnt need to remove the wheels either. Just jacked up the engine and removed the motor mounts, also removed the exhaust. I removed the stock bolts with ease using a 8mm socket. It was just the fact that the header didnt fit properly that made me mad, and I couldnt keep my truck out of order since its my daily driver.
 

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Did JBA ever resolve your conflict with that clearance situation? The problem obviously hasnt been resolved as my passenger side header has the same issue.
 

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I remember seeing this once before..... I didn't pay attention because I have VVTI envy.... I think it was resolved with a smaller headed bolt but I could be wrong.

JBA merged with petronix I belive, not sure what that really means for them. Same company owns Doug's headers(not Thorley, just Doug's). I didn't have any trouble with mine, but I have no tubes either. I really wish I remembered the last thread I saw on this.
 
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