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Discussion Starter #1
I'm frustrated and tired of reading and searching. Sorry for a long winded description, but I tend to ramble. Thanks for any insight you can provide. I lost my key and remote in the river for my 2007 Tundra SR5. My wife "normally" keeps my spare key/fob. She says she never had it. I won't bore you all with that coversation. Needless to say that left me with the grey valet key only. So I used that to open up the truck and get home.....then been driving with in the meantime.

I live 3 miles from Sparks Toyota, call them and get a price of $60 for the key and $125 to cut/program it. I was in shock from that I can't remember the price of the remote and programming. I want to think $175, but I could be wrong. Anyway I search for a new solution. Apparently cheaper ain't better.......for real. I buy a remote off ebay for $25. It is the same Toyota fob I had. I try to program it, to no avail. I search here for solutions and believe I saw it could only be done with the black/master key. So I go to a locksmith I know and he gets a "transponder" key and cuts it and programs it. The key works fine. Costs $75. However, it will not allow for programming the remote fob. He told me it should as it is the master key now and indeed the grey valet key would not work. He had some device he plugged into the truck and programmed the key. Took him about 20 minutes to do. Then he cut the key. At first it would turn but not start. He pulled the key out and stuck it back in his box, pressed buttons, stuck it back in and it started. I thought all was well.

When I got home last night and tried to program the remote is when I noticed some issues that confuse me. First of all I could not program the remote with the new master/transponder key. But in looking at the owners manual is when I became confused and thought I have an issue. I believe it has to do with the locksmiths programming. The red light on the dash where the clock and temp gauge is, I believe is the engine immobilizer indication light. When the key is NOT in the ignition, it is continually lit red. When the key IS IN the ignition, it blinks like 2 times then 2 more times, then a delay, then over and over. It never stops. When I park it and lock it by the doors, the light is solid and stays on and never goes out. If I turn it off, take the key out, and sit in it, it stays lit as well.

I tried reading the manual and got confused.......more so out of frustration. What is supposed to be taking place here? Should the light be on at all when parked? When driving? When no remote is used? Then lastly, when you have a replacement key made and programmed, are you able to program a remote with that new black transponder key. Not sure it is important, the key is not a Toyota key, but rather a STRATTEC.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks mendonsy......helps clear up a thing or two but really leaves me with more questions. But also I'm still lost on the light deal.

The Strattec key must have been programmed because it starts the truck, correct? Or is there a step ONLY the dealer can do? I'm beginning to think maybe the locksmith unprogrammed the immobilizer or disabled it, or something to make the key work.

Because the light stays on solid when they key is out and blinks when the key is in. I am under the impression it should be the other way around. Should be blinking when not in use or key in, then solid when key is inserted. Being I am bass ackwards, it appears the immobilizer is nil. Which then I guess would explain why I cannot program the remote as well.
 

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Mine blinks slowly when the key is out and is off when the key is in. I don't remember ever reading anything about it being on all the time. The two blinks thing doesn't ring any bells either.
The truck will store the chip ID for three keys. That information has to be entered with a techstream.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Again, thanks for your help and replies. I guess I should have went to the dealer to begin with and not try to save money. Every time I try to save a buck, it ends up costing me 2 bucks. Geez.

I will say this last bit in hope someone comes along with some knowledge of my issue. The manual states the light should be flashing when not in use (key in ignition). Mine is solid. Mine only blinks when the key is in, regardless of started or not. This is contrary to the manual and what I see others do, and that is stop flashing when in use.

Clearly that is the issue with me tryin to program a remote. But the locksmith has a techstream as he programmed the key. I guess now my questions would be to anyone:

*why is my engine immobilizer light on solid when parked and key out
*why does it flash when I start engine and drive or leave key in ignition
 

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I seriously doubt that the locksmith has a techstream. They cost $8k plus $995 per year to keep the subscription active. That's a LOT of Toyota keys.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
mendonsy, I understand now. When you say Techstream, that is exclusive to Toyotas.....I was thinking that was a key programming piece of equipment for all keys. You're right, he probably does not have the Techstream for Toyotas, I seriously doubt he would do enough Toyotas to justify that.

But I will add this info. in that maybe it might help someone at a leter date: I did speak to him again to express my concerns about my engine immobilizer light staying on all the time and blinking only when the key is in. He stated he must have left it in "learn" mode. Instructed me to go out to the truck, put the key in, turn it on and off (without starting) 6 times fairly fast and that would remove it from learn mode. Sure enough, it did. My light blinks now when parked and the light goes off when the key is inserted. So it appears to be working fine now.

Now my only challenge is the programming the darn remote. I have "inserted/removed key 2 times, close/open doors 2 times, insert key and remove, close/open doors 2 times, insert key, close door, turn key on then off and remove" so many times my neighbors are talking about me.
 

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Well the "learn" mode doesn't seem to be documented anywhere so maybe you are on to something. Let us know if you figure it out!!
 

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This is my understanding some locksmiths do have a device they can use to program imobolizer into the trucks ecu up to 4 can be done (total)includiding the orginal, after that you have to have the dealer do that with a the techstream software and what they call a seed key from toyota which wipes out all keys and you will have to reprogram in the ones you have again. But from what you have found it seems that he has already programmed in the imobolizer chip from the new key with what ever tool he has or you would not be able to start the truck without that done right. As for the new remote be sure the remote matches the FCC ID on the back of out remotes. I am working on a flipkey I am modify to work on my truck as soon as I get home from vacation I be able to verfiy this for sure. But from what I have found you will need the techstream software or make a trip to the dealer to program in the new remote, by the way up to 4 of them can also be programmed. I know about the techstream piece since I seen the page were you active the truck into a learn mode with it to learn the new remote similar to the keys imoblizer chip too. I seen many web site or pages with odd instructions about sticking the key in the ignition and open and closing the door and cycling the lock and unlock X number of time to get the trucks ecu into a laern mode but I not ever hear of any one getting this method to work but do know a few that have had the dealer do it with the techstream. Since I have the software and hardware to do this myself I know in a week or so if this works as it suppose too and will report back if you like.

This is just what I have learned from my research and reading online and other places. There are many other toyotas you can use the key/lock method to put the truck into the learn new remote mode but for some reason the Tundra's just not one of them. :(
 
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