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Discussion Starter #1
. . . I spent a few minutes emptying a can of the Krylon "Rust Tough Enamel" all over my frame, axle, springs, hitch, upper and lower front end arms, pretty much everywhere I could see from crawling around the truck that had the rust-cancer on it.

It looks good for now and it will be a miracle if this newfangled spray paint really works in at least slowing down the rust.

I'll have to snap some pics and post them up as it does look good underneath again, nice and shiny black.
 

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I woulda sprayed with rust reformer (goes by a few different names) first. It converts any surface rust to a paint-able primer. Rustoleum makes it.
 

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The key to a successful paint job (along with satisfying your girl ) is preparation.

The area to be painted must be totally ready before any painting action begins.

It takes scrubbing, sanding, cleaning with solvent, power washing ...etc

Then, and only then, you should be using a rust ready primer, then a coat or two of paint.

If prep. is not quite complete, be ready for disappointment.
 

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The key to a successful paint job (along with satisfying your girl ) is preparation.

The area to be painted must be totally ready before any painting action begins.

It takes scrubbing, sanding, cleaning with solvent, power washing ...etc

Then, and only then, you should be using a rust ready primer, then a coat or two of paint.

If prep. is not quite complete, be ready for disappointment.
I beg to differ, I just washed the slight mud off my undercarriage of my truck and let it dry, then just coated it once then again a week later. 2 years later only 1 small spot. Used rustoleum rust reformer and rustoleum satin black.

Then again not like the frame was super dirty to begin with, or maybe im lucky.
 

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I beg to differ, I just washed the slight mud off my undercarriage of my truck and let it dry, then just coated it once then again a week later. 2 years later only 1 small spot. Used rustoleum rust reformer and rustoleum satin black.

Then again not like the frame was super dirty to begin with, or maybe im lucky.
Not trying to contradict you but I would be worried about what is going on under that paint. I spent years as a machinist and have to agree with Boosted27606 in that absent some ridiculously anal preparation prior to painting there will be more rust - just less noticeable until it rears its ugly cancerous head like a girl leaping out of a cake at the bachelor party.
 

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You missed the part where I said I painted with rustoleum rust reformer. This paint turns rust into black primer chemically.

I wouldnt have believed it myself had I not painted some metal patio chairs with decent surface rust about 5 years back and they do sit outside all year. One coat of the reformer and 2 coats of stain black and not a speck of rust on them.
 

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An undercarriage on a roadgoing vehicle will have a tougher life than chairs sitting on a patio. Constant bombardment with road debris will make short work of anything from a rattle can (i.e. not catalysed paint, without hardener).
 

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Well there are no miracles yet, not in the can anyway. For real deal get that wire brush or +3000psi power washer and blast the f*** off the rust and dirt. Gonna tackle that this summer. Read instructions on the can - i bet it says "best results when rust is removed mechanically, then painted"
Its just basics. There are no miracles and no magic paint. It can only do so much. It will keep rusting underneath and will take years to brake trough the film of paint while eating metal underneath that shiny coat of paint or whatever (ruberized spray or whatever other coating) Just talk to those people who work with steel all their life. They will let you in on some "secrets"
 

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An undercarriage on a roadgoing vehicle will have a tougher life than chairs sitting on a patio. Constant bombardment with road debris will make short work of anything from a rattle can (i.e. not catalysed paint, without hardener).
Did you miss the part where I said its on the underside of my truck for 2 years with only 1 rust spot?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My truck has now been relegated to winter-beater/snowmobile carrier/tower and boat hauler.

I'll bet my 2004 frame here in MA looks better than any other 2004 as I have been rinsing my undercarriage after every snow event, every single one, not a few days or a few weeks later, after every event once the roads dry.

I had sprayed whatever spray paint I had in the garage before and it lasted a while. The Krylon stuff is supposed to not need anything, just spray it on.

Something has to be better than nothing but I do know that nothing is forever and que-sera-sera, whatever will be will be. My hitch looks much better too, heck, everything is looking pissah.
 

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I used the stuff CJM is talking about once, not on my Tundra. It turned a rusty spot into a weird rough surface, very primer like. I sanded lightly first, but got lazy real fast and just sprayed. It was fine for a little over a year, still might be. I don't have that truck anymore. It causes a chemical reaction that I don't quite understand to turn the iron-oxide into a mutated metallic substance, that way the rust stops spreading. Of course, I imagine if the rust is more than surface rust, it could always come back since that spray can only penetrate so far.
 

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Thats good that you guys found some remedies, but damn I'm pissed that my tundra brothers have to go through this in the east coast! Weak!

But I'm just glad you guys are thinking on your feet and getting it done on your own!
 

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hi, whatever work's, or if you have a little peice of mind. who care's.
you just can not let it to continue.
so whatever you do, is better than nothing.
i personally would sand it or, metal brush it 1st.
but i know rust is very bad. & no matter what will continue in time.
yes it is like cancer, 99% of the time, it will come back, but if you slow it down,
it's better than nothing.
i'm sure we all have seen that poor guy's frame.
good god, it look's like it's ready to brake off.
he can't do anything.
i wonder what toyota would say if you touched it.
& than they do a recall, you might be out of luck.
anytime, you touch the tundra, you usually have issue's,
with the dealership. it always becomes a fight.
what is & isn't allowed.
i know already i have no warrenty.
but i belive it's 5 years or 60,000 miles
well i'll hit 5years in augest.
i'll hit 60,000 miles in 7 or 8 years.

i always thought undercoating was our best option.
not paint. since we run over alot of stuff, that would chip paint,
alot easyier than rubberized undercoating, which would be alot harder to chip.
but what do i know,
just good luck, i hope it help's whatever anyone does.
it's better than letting it continue.
gorilla
 

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I use a rust binder product from Permatex (got it atNAPA) after power washing the frame. Then I spray undercoating on top of that. So far NO RUST after 7 years and over 170K miles. I do this every year.
 

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forget all that work...just go to your local water supply warehouse and get the large zinc rod used in water heaters....find a nice unpainted spot on the frame and zip tie the zinc rod to the frame in that area....the zinc will act as a sacrifical electrode and will "rust" before your frame does since it has a lower oxidation potential and you can replace it when it visually shrinks....they use this technology on military ships all the time....zinc bars are strapped to the hull and they are in high salt conc water all the time unlike your frame....

BETTER LIVING THRU CHEMISTRY!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You know, this is actually a very good idea as I have zincs all over the place, leftover from my outboard motor and trim tabs.

I never thought of it.

Brilliant!

Thing is, I'd have to find that unpainted spot or sand it myself. Plus, it works on boats as they are immersed in the electrolyte-salt water. Hmmmmmm . . .
 

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If the frame is not covered in zinc like in european frames you are f**ked anyways as it will only protect tiny are by the piece of zinc. It doesnt protect the whole frame if you strap one piece of zinc to it. Wish it was that easy though :D
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Right, if the zinc would work then all motor vehicles would have them. It works if the less noble metal is immersed in water/saltwater.

The Krylon Rust Tough Enamel gonna make my frame last and last and last . . . at least all the fumes I smelled make me think so, ha!
 
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