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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
They are a little short. Im gonna have them lengthened hopefully over the weekend. Ride is a lot stiffer, but this is due to the rubber snub riding up against the springs. It should be about 1/2 an inch or so of clearance. I didn't want to cut it down since I'm not sure where it will be at once i lengthen it. Once it's the proper length i will cut it down for proper clearance. I did make a few runs, one stalling to 1500 rpms and another at 1000 rpms and both times i spun. Didn't feel any different but I'm hoping that's because the bars aren't positioned right. It may be because the tires aren't warm and sticky like at the track. I'll keep you guys posted on the resizing.













 

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I'm confused. How does this prevent axle rap which causes wheel hop? I ask this because there doesn't seem to be anything connected to the frame (from the pics)? Wouldn't the axle still rap? The traction bars I've seen weld to the axle and then are welded to the frame, with end links of course. Please enlighten me, I don't understand this setup. Not saying it won't work, just don't get it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well this is a universal kit since they dont make one for our tundras. The bar is supposed to extend out with the rubber snub being below the eye of the leaf spring. As the axle begins to wrap it slams the traction bar snub up into the solid eye keeping the spring from wrapping and creates better traction. The problem with this kit is it's 10" too short lol. I got it for about $50 so it was a cheap experiment.

But your right about the welding. Most kits bolt onto or are welded to the bottom plate of the axle/ u bolt setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I gave them to my dad to extend. He's seems to think those traction bars are more for show than function. However he's gonna work on it and I'll take it to the track next Thursday to see if there is any difference. I tried to make a few runs over by some warehouses but was afraid I'd get into trouble so I left. Hopefully warming up the tires and lowering the tire pressure along with the traction bars will help.
 

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I'd say they won't likely do much on a normal street tire, mostly because the tire will spin long before there is significant axle wrap that needs to be "cured" by using this bar. If you don't have significant axle wrap for the bar to counteract in the first place...

This is JMO, I haven't actually used a set, just speculating. If it turns out I am wrong and Socialstar gets better 60' times with it, I'll get some myself. :tu:
 

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I was hoping for a better outcome considering that you have more tire than I do.
Are you handy with tools? I just found this... Traction
That is a very good link for showing how they work. From reading the article it seems that this is probably not the best design though. I would love a good set of traction bars. I know fabtech makes a set like I was talking about but only for lifted trucks. I wonder why the aftermarket hasn't made us one for non lifted trucks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
my first few outings at the track i would try to stall to get good launches and would end up smoking tires, bounce the rear end and i'm positive my axle was wrapping. When i launch at the track now, i ease into just slightly more aggressive than i would at a stop light. Once i feel the tires bite, i punch it. Imagine how much better our times would be if traction wasn't an issue. Im sure better tires would work better, but these cost only 53 dollars, and even modified, still comes out less than the price of one DR tire or slick. lol
 

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"This is an awesome deal on an awesome kit! This is a brand new set of Pro Comp Tractions bars with mounting kit for the 07-08 Tundra 2WD/4x4 and is being offered by Top Gun Customz. Traction bars can be purchased separately from the mounting kit if preferred.​
NOTE: This pair of traction bars are made specifically for 6" Pro Comp lift, but will work in conjunction with most 4-6" after market lifts."​

These are also for lifted trucks.

That is a very good link for showing how they work. From reading the article it seems that this is probably not the best design though. I would love a good set of traction bars. I know fabtech makes a set like I was talking about but only for lifted trucks. I wonder why the aftermarket hasn't made us one for non lifted trucks?
...but they are the least expensive. =]
 

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I saw a guy one time who had similar traction bars on a nicely modified 70 Camaro. He lit things up and they broke right in half...
 

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my first few outings at the track i would try to stall to get good launches and would end up smoking tires, bounce the rear end and i'm positive my axle was wrapping. When i launch at the track now, i ease into just slightly more aggressive than i would at a stop light. Once i feel the tires bite, i punch it. Imagine how much better our times would be if traction wasn't an issue. Im sure better tires would work better, but these cost only 53 dollars, and even modified, still comes out less than the price of one DR tire or slick. lol
Any update?
I don't preload my suspension. I (usually) get better traction by flashing the converter with a 3/4 throttle jab, then going WOT a few feet out. Preloading the suspension may be adding to your tire spin. If I powerstall it, mine spins worse than if I don't. The bars corrected a shudder on acceleration that I had been experiencing...probably from incorrect pinion angle during launches. The Tundra springs are pretty long and fairly soft for a truck. My springs wrapped when I parked in my driveway and rolled backwards. Park on a hill facing up without setting your parking brake and look at the position of your traction bars, then park facing downhill and take another look at them. You'll see what I mean.
You have PM regarding the traction bar link I posted above and a GMC owner I recently met.

Oh, and if you lengthen the bars, be sure to add a bracket to secure the front of the bar to the spring. If you don't, the bar could contact the pavement on hard braking. When you brake, the front of the bar will travel downward. Competition style slapper bars have a u-bolt that secures the front of the bar to the spring. The bars on my 57 have one.
 

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if you were spinning before, traction bars will not keep you from spinning, just help eliminate wheel hop. in a sense they put more power to the tire, so you will more than likely spin worse if you have not upgraded your rubber situation
 

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Agreed with above, tbars only help with the hop as i dont think thats your biggest problem. I know you hear of people running cal-tracs on the strip but in addition to those they are running SLICKS. I would invest in a striaght up slick not drag radials if your super serious about running at the track. If your 2wd dont worry about the height of the rear slicks as it will only increase your gear ratio if smaller, (look funny, but your at the track). I would get some dedicated wheels and slicks for the rear for track use, along with those cal-tracs (or similar) would be badazz. Good experiment, and hopefully you put down some nice numbers. Im a former modded SRT8 Jeep guy recently got the '10 Tundra LTD for work but I miss my SRT8 in terms of power, not even close compared to the Tundra. I do love the Tundra in different ways.
 
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