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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yesterday while driving I noticed some steam come out from where the 3rd row seatbelt hole is - on the passenger side.

I looked at the cluster and noticed car was overheating, pulled over and stopped.

I was about a block away from my garage and when I pulled in the car was leaking from the rear end above the exhaust, and it was making a hissing sound.

I found this link, and it seems to me like the problem.


I just cant find the name for the hoses I need to replace.

Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

Pics attached...
 

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Coolant is leaking?
If so, I had the same problem. Both coolant pipes, at the point of contact of the pipe and the black foam, that go to the rear heater coil rotted. I saw a small Leak and thought it was the rubber hoses (going to these pipes). When I went to replace them, the metal pipes broken when I tired to remove the rubber hoses.
I by-passed the heater coil while waiting for the parts to repair it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Coolant is leaking?
If so, I had the same problem. Both coolant pipes, at the point of contact of the pipe and the black foam, that go to the rear heater coil rotted. I saw a small Leak and thought it was the rubber hoses (going to these pipes). When I went to replace them, the metal pipes broken when I tired to remove the rubber hoses.
I by-passed the heater coil while waiting for the parts to repair it.
Thank you for the quick reply. Yes coolant was leaking, seems like we had the exact same issue.

Can you recommend the best way to bypass the heater coil? I don't really use the rear climate so I might just leave it bypassed.

Do you remember the replacement parts? I think they might be in here: RADIATOR & WATER OUTLET. Toyota Sequoia | Larry H. Miller Toyota Lemon Grove, Lemon Grove CA

Thanks again!
 

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To by-pass the heater core, I removed both rubber hoses that go to the heater core (as seen in your picture. I used one of them, I think I needed to trim it a bit, to connect the pipes one to the other. Re-using the clamps.
As for the parts to repair, I will list the parts I used in a couple of days.
I used this For the parts.
I will say it was a little tricky replacing the broken pipes,as the manual wants you to disconnect the AC lines to remove the heater assy. I didn’t want to go that route and figured a way to get the lower bracket off by drilling a couple of holes and a long screw driver. If you go this route, let me know and I can get a couple of pictures and send them over
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks so much. Approximately how long did this take you?
Tomorrow I plan on by-passing the heater core, as a temporary fix, and then ordering the parts you sent me to do a proper fix.

My hatch also broke and will not open, another problem to deal with :)
 

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It took about a half of a day. tho you can do it in multiple steps once you have the by-pass in place.
Start with removing the rear inside trim to get access to the heater box. Then remove the three bolts securing the box to the side wall (?).

The fun part, is removing the two screws that hold the bottom bracket. This is the bracket to where my pipes broke, they are screwed from the bottom up into the heater assy.
To get to these screws, i drilled two holes in the bottom pan (from the underside up) to give me access to them. Without doing this step, you would have to disconnect the AC lines from the box, so it can be removed to get access to them. I didn't want to do this. Once done with the job, i got two plastic plugs for these holes. Screws shown in picture.
154930


Once the bracket is off, you work on removing the pipes and installing the new ones. This is pretty straight forward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I will eventually replace the pipes proper, but that's on the back burner.
Next up, is taking apart the door panels from the inside of the hatch, and fixing / replacing the opening mechanism.

Will keep you posted - thanks again for your help.
 
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