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Also interested in info about 10" Fox Racing Shox with remote reservoir (Rear)
 

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Where did you get the rear springs and specs?

You leave the sway bar off all the time? How does it handle on the road?

Any info on how to install the ABS toggle switch?
Rear Springs: From Bill at Valley Spring Works, Inc. in Dixon, CA (707)678-3944. Basically once they have the factory spring specs they can do whatever you want. If I recall correctly, for the '01 Sequoia they showed 3 different factory springs... with 3rd row seat, tow package and ???... anyways, once you determine the correct spring for your vehicle then you tell them what you want. I went with a 30% stiffer spring with a 2.5" lift. I also chose to make my springs progressive so I get the stiffer spring for off-road driving and still maintain a smooth highway ride. I've been very happy with them. Although I can only recommend Valley Spring, I suspect a local shop may be able to do the same for you and save shipping. I paid $285 + tax for the pair... it costs less for non-progressive.

Both sway bars stay removed. The truck handles great as it is now... BUT, prior to adding the second front shock it had pretty bad body roll.
As respects the removal of the rear sway bar: The ARB locker installer located the air line at the top front of the rear dif... directly in line with the rear sway bar at full droop. I had originally added limit straps and 1.5" to each of the rear sway bar links so the sway bar would not hit the air line, but eventually removed the rear sway bar completely for better articulation and to prevent it from making contact with the air line. I did not really notice a big difference in the handling of the truck with just the rear sway bar removed.
As respects the removal of the front sway bar: The Fox coilovers were not enough to prevent/limit body roll (note: with both sway bars removed)... so I still needed the front sway bar. Unfortunately I kept breaking the sway bar links (not cheap!). The addition of the dual shock hoop and a second Fox accomplished what I needed... better articulation with sway bar removed, minimal and acceptable body roll, and reinforced the upper c/o tower bucket (I understand that the upper c/o buckets can crack and fail with heavy off-road use). I should also add... for those of you considering the dual shock set-up, the installation requires the permanent removal of the sway bar link mounting tabs... but in my opinion the ride is significantly improved... (advantages>disadvantages)

ABS toggle switch: Prior to upgrading the rear shocks to Fox Shox, I had Bilstein 5150's. They were nice for light off-roading, but the upper eye failed with heavy use. On 2 different occasions the upper eye broke off and the shock thrashed about and took out a wire to an ABS sensor. When only one ABS sensor wire is cut... the entire ABS system is disabled (I suspect by the computer). Hence the discovery of adding an all-weather toggle switch to any ABS sensor wire. What made the most sense to me is to install the switch under the hood. I did not want to have the switch accessible to my wife, family or friends while they were driving... once the ABS is disabled it can only be turned back on after the ignition has been turned off and back on again. By having the switch under the hood the switch could not be bumped or flipped by accident... it can only be toggled as a deliberate act. I chose to tap into the drivers side front ABS sensor wire and the easiest/cleanest/best place I found to splice into the wire was a few inches away from the connector into the main wire harness(on the sensor side of the connector). To find the connector, follow the ABS wire from the wheel/sensor into the engine compartment. The connector is located on the top of the driver side frame rail. I removed the battery for ease of access. Only splice into one wire! It does not matter which wire, because all you are doing is breaking the loop. I mounted a standard all-weather toggle into the existing hole on the upper coolant bracket. The bracket is black, so I used a white paint marker to label the toggle "ABS", "on", and "off".
FYI: Prior to the ABS toggle mod, I was occasionally unable to slow the truck quick enough to avoid dangerous situations on dirt/gravel roads (NOT recommended for pavement)... like an unexpected/unmarked sharp corner, a water crossing or a wildlife crossing. Now, with the ABS disabled, huge difference in the ability to slow and stop the truck on these surfaces. Much safer for me, my family, and everyone else (incl critters) around me. Hope this helps!!! Enjoy...
 

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Also interested in info about 10" Fox Racing Shox with remote reservoir (Rear)
Upgrading to 10" Fox Racing Shox with R/R is much more than changing out the shocks. Here's some stuff off the top of my head... I do not have the factory rear leveling air bags that I've read about.
  • For starters the longer travel shocks are also longer when fully compressed and can bottom out prior to hitting your bump stops. Cure: take careful measurements and add a metal block between frame and bump stop to prevent the shock from bottoming out. I added an aluminum block somewhere between 3/8" and 3/4" thick. I put a zip tie on the shaft when off-roading. The zip tie will slide down the shaft and stay where the shock was most compressed. If the zip tie is missing, then it was smashed and you need a thicker block!
  • The Fox factory preset valving is not enough for a Sequoia... too heavy! When purchasing the shocks tell them what it is for and have them re-valve the shocks for a heavier vehicle. I think ORW will re-valve them for your application (first time free!)
  • Also when ordering the shocks you will need to make sure they have the correct ends/bushings to fit your vehicle. I think my factory lower shock mount shaft is 1/2". I had to also order an "upper shock pin to clevis conversion" mounting bracket. I recommend the bracket be bolted in, positioned correctly and then tack weld the corners to keep it from rotating... I've had them rotate... not good!
  • You will also need limit straps to prevent the shocks from over extending. I can tell you what I did and how they are mounted, but I imagine you will need to take your own measurements and order/install accordingly.
  • You will need longer rear springs or a spacer so your factory spring doesn't fall out with the increased droop.
  • The sway bar needs to be removed or the sway bar links will need to be extended to allow for the increased droop... if they are not extended then the sway bar will hit the rear dif. I cut mine and sleeved them adding 1.5". If you add too much, the sway bar can hit the driveline when fully compressed. For me, the 1.5 was a happy medium.
Hope this helps!
 

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What size tires are you running? What is the lift gained, it looks mild? What light bar are you running?
285/75/16 BFG M/T

As respects lift gained, I need to post more current pics... the 12 pics cover a span of several years at different stages... most of the pics referenced are with a 2" lift. None of them show the current set-up... 3"ish, not incl additional height gained from tires.

The light bar is homemade.
 

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ITRAC, Great build, It reminded me of my Suk when I first started building it. It is cool to see another person going all out on a sukohyea. Be careful with your tire selection, I wouldnt recommend going bigger than a 285/75/16 tire for any kind of stressful rock crawling type terrain, I completely demolished my front diff, on a minor obstacle, with very little right foot. THe rear diff is strong with the factory cap supports that they put in the Sequoia rear axle, but again, FOr serious off road terrain, I melted my locked rear diff. on a very minor obstacle, and snapped a shaft very easily (easier than you would think) Trust me, I was scratching my head at how easy the rear diff let go.

Anyways, I look forward to seeing your build progress.
 

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Good point about the rear diff!

On a side note with this thread, are any of you lifted guys experiencing broken or bent front sway bar links? I'm on my second set, this time I'm using Moog. They are bending at the top near the threads. I tried to find a set of the Downey links, but they are long gone. Might have to go the route that was mentioned with the Total Chaos double shock hoop and eliminate the front sway bar all together? Kind of expensive though!
 

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285/75/16 BFG M/T

As respects lift gained, I need to post more current pics... the 12 pics cover a span of several years at different stages... most of the pics referenced are with a 2" lift. None of them show the current set-up... 3"ish, not incl additional height gained from tires.

The light bar is homemade.

THANKS FOR POSTING ... i Have tried to get ahold of Chaos a few times to find out specs on your ride .. i noticed how much flex your rear has ... i have a similar build but wanted rear springs and was coming up dead end..... ill be giving valley a call thanks....

BTW for the thread here are some pics of my wifes... Specs... are 2.5" fabtech coilovers adjusted to 4" 1.25" driff drop porche cv boots spacers and bagged rear bilstien 5150's 285/70/17 nitto's on 17x8 procomps 2" wheels spacers.. Ohh and custom sway bar disconects.. as in they broke off and stayed off ...

Bad picture in Monument valley if there is such a thing...
 

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THANKS FOR POSTING ... i Have tried to get ahold of Chaos a few times to find out specs on your ride .. i noticed how much flex your rear has ... i have a similar build but wanted rear springs and was coming up dead end..... ill be giving valley a call thanks....

BTW for the thread here are some pics of my wifes... Specs... are 2.5" fabtech coilovers adjusted to 4" 1.25" driff drop porche cv boots spacers and bagged rear bilstien 5150's 285/70/17 nitto's on 17x8 procomps 2" wheels spacers.. Ohh and custom sway bar disconects.. as in they broke off and stayed off ...

Bad picture in Monument valley if there is such a thing...
You have the coilovers adjusted to 4"?? with no problems? How are you getting it to align or get any caster? Do your porsche cv boots fit well? Let me know if you can provide alignment specs...I can't get mine anywhere near where it needs to be...
 

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You have the coilovers adjusted to 4"?? with no problems? How are you getting it to align or get any caster? Do your porsche cv boots fit well? Let me know if you can provide alignment specs...I can't get mine anywhere near where it needs to be...
Yep its set there as far as no problems well thats debatable the seqioa sits 1" lower than the tundra so technically its the same as a 3" on a tundra and to be tottally honest i have adjusted them up 3 times so im not sure where it is at now.as you can tell from the picture it has rake toward the rear and that with 2" spacer's and airbags so its cranked up... As far as alingment specs i am not sure NOTHING that is in a book for sure it doesn't wear tires perfect ... i had an alignment guru set it up that did the stuff for my shop for years.. i know it has only like 2-3 degree's of caster but it has been toed in a little more than usual to make up for the driveability it doesn't burn the tires off but the do need to be rotated every 6-8k miles but i really don't care i was gonna put upper arm on it for year and never did since the long term goal is a longtravel system ..

As far as "where it needs to be" I owned a 4wd shop and have been in the offroad/custom truck building business for a decade and a half i don't care what any manufacture says once you lift a truck it will never" align back to factory specs".. Unless you are dealing with a subframe drop down system any time you change the factory angle on tie rods/arms geometry something has to give ... thats a whole other topic and one i don't type well enough to get into.... basically as soon as you bolt on those aftermarket wheels and larger tires you have thrown all of the factory specs out the window plane and simple..... i would suggest finding the oldest alignment shop in your area that doesn't need a fancy machine to align you truck... A computer can't calibrate for what years of experiance will taking it to a tire shop with so kid is fine for 99% of the cars on the road but even with the most advanced machine's with supposed "lift specs" the machines and or operator cannot account for differnece in wheel offset tire height etc which all affects spindle inclination in relation to tire contact on the ground..



As far as the Porsche cv boots fitting good " NO " they don't but fro a product not intended for our trucks specifically they work better than duct tape i think most people over think the fact its a boot.... It only job is to keep grease in and water etc out.. is it a little big YEP.. can it be easily tightened down with a clamp YEP.. not to tight or you will cut the boot make sure it isn't rubbing on anything "inside or out" amke sure its not under tension when installing the axle clamp i usually apply Black silicon around the large bell section just cause it make me feel better .. I think most guy's over think this process way to much Maybe thats why they call me Rednecknate but hey i guess i just try to apply common sense to most things and have never really had much problem with that principle..

My 8 cents..:D hope it helps some..
 

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Looks great!!! I pretty much have the same set-up.

3 QUESTIONS:

Do you have aftermarket UCA's or plan on getting them?
Do you think the 2" spacers are necessary in the rear with the 285's?
Do you get much if any rubbing with the 285's front or rear?

I am planning on keeping the stock 17" rims and still running a 285 tire but I don't want it to rub every time I turn or hit a bump. Not looking to build a offroad vehicle this time, just a better looking grocery getter.

To answer most of your questions generally.... 285's fit no problem stock in the rear... If you run 285's on your stock rims you will have to run 1.25 spacers or the tire will rub the upper arm and cut a hole in the tire with most brands of tires..

In my experiance of lifted dozens of tundra's/sequioa's 285's generally rub the mud flaps.. take em off or get creative.. sometimes frame rub when at full look depending on tire brand..

Id say if your looking for a better looking grocery getter run adjustable height "snap ring style. which will give you 2.5" up front and 265/70/17 and you may be able to get away with out wheel spacers.. depending on tire type.. but 285 do look the best in my opinion so run them and deal with rubbing of the flaps" eventually your wife will quit *****ing when you don't take them off trust me LOL SHE stopped asking after two years" what can i say im lazy.... or take em off...... OR if you like the really stuffed tire look i did a sequioa for a customer with 295/70/17 took the flaps off and ran wheels spacers but they rubbed everywhere.. but he dug it " college kids".......:first:

Here is another picture of my wifes sequioa when i had the coilover set at 2.5" with no lift in the back and 255/75/17 bfg mud " same as 265/70/17 sorry its a bad picture casue its a littel low in the rear and my kid was standing in the way but its the only picture i have of it i am not a big picture taker... LOL atleast of my vehicles with it setup like this it was maybe 1" high in the front with out the trailer..
 

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factory 2001 will have 16" rims so no they won't it woul need to be a 2003 or later annd have 17" rims and he would need to lift it in order to clear those tire which is whats being discussed sorta!!! LOL:D
 

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Yep its set there as far as no problems well thats debatable the seqioa sits 1" lower than the tundra so technically its the same as a 3" on a tundra and to be tottally honest i have adjusted them up 3 times so im not sure where it is at now.as you can tell from the picture it has rake toward the rear and that with 2" spacer's and airbags so its cranked up... As far as alingment specs i am not sure NOTHING that is in a book for sure it doesn't wear tires perfect ... i had an alignment guru set it up that did the stuff for my shop for years.. i know it has only like 2-3 degree's of caster but it has been toed in a little more than usual to make up for the driveability it doesn't burn the tires off but the do need to be rotated every 6-8k miles but i really don't care i was gonna put upper arm on it for year and never did since the long term goal is a longtravel system ..

As far as "where it needs to be" I owned a 4wd shop and have been in the offroad/custom truck building business for a decade and a half i don't care what any manufacture says once you lift a truck it will never" align back to factory specs".. Unless you are dealing with a subframe drop down system any time you change the factory angle on tie rods/arms geometry something has to give ... thats a whole other topic and one i don't type well enough to get into.... basically as soon as you bolt on those aftermarket wheels and larger tires you have thrown all of the factory specs out the window plane and simple..... i would suggest finding the oldest alignment shop in your area that doesn't need a fancy machine to align you truck... A computer can't calibrate for what years of experiance will taking it to a tire shop with so kid is fine for 99% of the cars on the road but even with the most advanced machine's with supposed "lift specs" the machines and or operator cannot account for differnece in wheel offset tire height etc which all affects spindle inclination in relation to tire contact on the ground..



As far as the Porsche cv boots fitting good " NO " they don't but fro a product not intended for our trucks specifically they work better than duct tape i think most people over think the fact its a boot.... It only job is to keep grease in and water etc out.. is it a little big YEP.. can it be easily tightened down with a clamp YEP.. not to tight or you will cut the boot make sure it isn't rubbing on anything "inside or out" amke sure its not under tension when installing the axle clamp i usually apply Black silicon around the large bell section just cause it make me feel better .. I think most guy's over think this process way to much Maybe thats why they call me Rednecknate but hey i guess i just try to apply common sense to most things and have never really had much problem with that principle..

My 8 cents..:D hope it helps some..
Sorry, I don't mean to slightly highjack this lift thread...however it is related. I guess my question, is how you can get 2-3 degrees of caster when I only have 2.75" of lift up front and I can only get about 1.5 degrees of caster with the cams being maxed out. From what I understand, the UCA's will solve this problem. Mine was done on the recommended Hunter Alignment console. So, DJ's sequoia spec's are 2.5 - 2.75 Caster, .25+ Camber, and .08 Total Toe. They could only get my camber around -0.1 and total toe is at .11 so I'm not sure if I need to take it to a third shop to dial it in anymore. My front tires wear on the outer edge, and it drives me nuts. I've had two tundras with similar lifts and 285 tires with perfect tire wear, so I know this Sequoia can be better...I'm just not sure why it's different.
 

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Sorry, I don't mean to slightly highjack this lift thread...however it is related. I guess my question, is how you can get 2-3 degrees of caster when I only have 2.75" of lift up front and I can only get about 1.5 degrees of caster with the cams being maxed out. From what I understand, the UCA's will solve this problem. Mine was done on the recommended Hunter Alignment console. So, DJ's sequoia spec's are 2.5 - 2.75 Caster, .25+ Camber, and .08 Total Toe. They could only get my camber around -0.1 and total toe is at .11 so I'm not sure if I need to take it to a third shop to dial it in anymore. My front tires wear on the outer edge, and it drives me nuts. I've had two tundras with similar lifts and 285 tires with perfect tire wear, so I know this Sequoia can be better...I'm just not sure why it's different.

I honestly am not much help as far as specs i am having a hard time remebering what they were exactly I really don't have any wear issues at all even if i rotate my tires avery 6-10k miles they barely have any cupping... I can't really say to do anything other then maybe try some different shops as i have had pretty good luck so far........with no uppers i am scared now though since its been 3-4 years since it has been aligned last and i wanna change the setup slightly i wanna run uniball uppers with a dual setup l... or I am looking into doing a long travel pretty seriosly at the moment ... I have the wifes blessing at the moment to turn it into a Dual purpose rig if i get her a decent littel car to do In town stuff in
 

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I lifted mine a month ago. Had some bad stock shocks. I went with Bilstein's and used the Daystar 3" lift kit. Although i have big wheels (22"s) im going for that big wheel big tire look so im going to try to put 33's on it once my 285's wear down.

sorry only picture i took i can post more if someone wants to see
 

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How is everyone getting around the "rev limiter" when in 4WD? I got in some mud and it wouldn't allow me to get the RPM's over 3K! Is there a bypass?

I appriciate any help.

Thank you.
 

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Do you mean that it shifts to the next gear at 3k rpms? Are you in 4Low? I've seen mine rev up past that, so I'm not sure why you couldn't? It could be the traction control prohibiting the tire spin....or try leaving it in 2nd gear to see if it will let the rpm's run up.
 
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