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I have a 4x4 2000 tundra, I plan on getting a 6" RCD lift kit and a 3" body lift, will I need anything else or does the kits have everything? Also, I plan on putting tires on, hopefully 37s, unless I could go bigger?
Thanks alot!!
 

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Beer Me
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if you want a lift that big should have got a chevy... a 6 on these trucks is pretty big.
 

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I have a 4x4 2000 tundra, I plan on getting a 6" RCD lift kit and a 3" body lift, will I need anything else or does the kits have everything? Also, I plan on putting tires on, hopefully 37s, unless I could go bigger?
Thanks alot!!
Yep. A crate each of ball joints, u-joints, front axles, and CV boots, plus roll bars and a helmet.
 

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And maybe increase your life insurance & make sure your beneficiary info is up to date too.
 

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I have a 4x4 2000 tundra, I plan on getting a 6" RCD lift kit and a 3" body lift, will I need anything else or does the kits have everything? Also, I plan on putting tires on, hopefully 37s, unless I could go bigger?
Thanks alot!!
If you want 35s or bigger you absolutely need a solid axle conversion. A 6" RCD lift is ridiculous to begin with, then putting a 3" body lift is asking for trouble. If you want a durable, safe, well performing suspension swap in a Dana 60 on leaves do a linked coilover set-up. It won't be too much more, and you could get some good flex.

The first time you hit a trail or a mudpit with the 6" RCD, body lift and 37s your entire truck will fold into a pile of turd and you would have wasted a ton of money. That or you might die. Sorry if it all sounds harsh, but learn from the lessons of others and do it right.

Good luck, search "SAS" or solid axle swap, ask questions here and find a good local 4x4/fab shop and get an idea on costs.
 

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that was brutal. a RCD lift is $2100 a PA body lift is $500 but id source elsewhere. a SAS will cost $5000 easily. "not too much more my ass". you just doubled the cost and you still dont have wheels and tires yet.
 

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that was brutal. a RCD lift is $2100 a PA body lift is $500 but id source elsewhere. a SAS will cost $5000 easily. "not too much more my ass". you just doubled the cost and you still dont have wheels and tires yet.
$2,100 installed? how about the body lift? if you have a welder and the ability to fabricate you could get a SAS done for $2,500 depending on the axle you source.

but it's really a moot point, because a 10" lift any other way is scary, dangerous and you gain ZERO suspension travel. What is the point of 37s, with only 8" of travel? or whatever stock is.
 

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$2,100 installed? how about the body lift? if you have a welder and the ability to fabricate you could get a SAS done for $2,500 depending on the axle you source.

but it's really a moot point, because a 10" lift any other way is scary, dangerous and you gain ZERO suspension travel. What is the point of 37s, with only 8" of travel? or whatever stock is.
i think its well documented how much most of the guys that have SAS conversions have spent. ive only looked at a couple of them and both were $5000 give or take a bit.
so your asking me if $2100 is installed? only if its a good buddy discount. then you ask about the body lift and go on to say "if you have a welder and the ability to fabricate blah blah blah".
so the guy cant install a prefabbed suspension lift or body lift but he can save money on SAS if he can fab. quite the contradictary statement isnt it. your still stuck without gears, without wiring being done, without wheels and tires.
i can fab but you wouldnt find me throwing a SA under my truck. too much **** besides just the axle to get ahold of.
OP, i bet if you include some bilstein 5100s in your purchases TS would go crazy and give you the thumbs up. be all end all BILSTEINS!
 

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Not too sure how the RCD 6" Is ridiculous as one of you said, i have one and theres plenty of members on here with it without issues....If you do a search theres 3 or 4 i remember on the forum who did the 6"+3"body. When you do that you need to weld an extension onto the steering shaft which most companies wont do because of liability.

Heres a thread from a bit ago with some info and the other people with that posted: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/suspension-and-axle/124782-tundra-3-body-lift/
 

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obviously I've ruffled some feathers, which was not my intention. without wasting too much more time here is my logic:

geometry lifts such as the RCD cantilever the IFS components outside their design spectrum and weakens them. the brake and hub assemblies are also not designed for the oversized tires. all of this is counter intuitive to the purpose of a lift which is enhance it's off-road prowess (even if it's a street queen, the intent is to give that impression which geometry lifts and BL do not in my book).

the financial argument is mitigated by my opinion on the usefulness of the lift because I think it is a complete waste of money but it seems that an RCD and BL would run you about $4,500 installed by a shop and add another $1,500 to re-gear front and rear. So now total cost is $6,000. I'd be astonished if you couldn't source an axle and materials for under $2,000 get a fab shop to do the conversion for under $3,000 leaving you money to re-gear the rearend to match the front.

either way, I'm sorry if it rubs people the wrong way I just feel like a counterpoint needs to be provided. as it was said, if you are only ever going to run it on the street you might not die in a ball of fire and lift pucks but if you ever get an itch to take it off-road look into some off-road enthusiast forums such as Pirate4x4.Com - Powered by vBulletin or SoCalTundras.com and do some more research as they know more than I'll ever pretend to know.

good luck, have fun, be safe.
 

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I do understand the want (need?) to go higher and "stand out" from the rest of the crowd. If your set on lifting your Tundra with a drop bracket lift, IMHO, you've selected the right kit... quality components, Bilstein shocks included, great design, and I heard installation is easier than other brands because the brackets actually line up the way they should. About the only thing I'd change is the block in the back - I'd opt for a custom spring pack or an add-a-leaf/block combo to keep cost down. I seriously considered going this route myself, but decided against it because it would prevent me from parking in my garage and I had a baby on the way - there was no way my pregnant wife would be able to get in / out of the truck.

As Cruisified posted, be aware that lifting and running a larger wheel/tire will put stress on suspension/drive-train/brakes. Expect to have things wear prematurely.

As for the body lift, as others have said, don't do it. Your truck is big and heavy... Putting it on pucks is only asking for trouble.
 

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I have a 3" leveling kit and just put a 3" PA bodylift on my 2003 a couple of weeks ago. I fit some 35" tires under it. Looks great, rides fairly close to stock.
I had to do some mild trimming, mostly due to interference with the TRD flares/mudflaps.
Great setup for street and for aesthetics, but the 3" suspension lift with those tires would not be ideal for heavy offroading unless, perhaps, i trimmed more heavily.
I always see a lot of animosity for the body lifts... Not sure why as i had an S10 blazer with a PA body lift... Never any issues, and when my truck was totalled by a fast moving minivan the body kit held up to that fine... It was my frame bending from the impact that sent that truck to the junkyard... And every bolt and block in the body lift was intact. I actually drove it to the insurance adjuster (granted it was dark out and i did not realize at that point how extensive the damage was).
 

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i think the animosity towards body lifts is just the bandwagon. back in the day there were way more BL trucks than true suspension lifted trucks. all the negative hype towards them is just ignorance. would i put a BL on my truck? yeah if that was the best way to lift my truck. i chose to go the RCD because i can install it myself and it fit my needs. would i do a SA, yep if i had the time to have my truck down while i source all the parts and make sure i have everything to finish the install. even then you know things will come up.
 

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Choose your paths wisely and know the limits of your machine, and if its a daily driver dont be a douche with your Toy, Finesse is everything. Alot of times a good set of 33s on an rcd with a locker or two will get you everywhere you want to go. you want a hard core trail machine buy a heep, because with 9 inches of lift and 37's can make on and off ramps on the highway a white knuckle ride. and if you really wanna run 37's please for the love of seeing tomorrow in one piece, please upgrade your brakes, it takes alot of power to stop a 130+ pound tire.
Also check your local lift laws....
 

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So would have a 6" suspension lift be as dangerous as everybody says? I want to lift mine, but the 3" just looks almost stock....
Im not for body lifts as I feel that a suspension lift is safer overall.
 

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Just do it the right way and get a Tuff Country 5" lift. I wouldn't even bother with a body lift. I have the 5" TC lift with 35" Hankooks, 4.56 Gears and a Detroit locker. It drives amazingly well.
 

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At the end of the day it's your truck so do what you'll be happy with... I know plenty of people that stack leveling kicks,combine lifts and still give them hell off road... If your goal is 37s look in my sig I'm about to put 37s granted it wont be as high but its one of the smoothest lifted trucks iv been in. Just don't let people talk you out of what you really want.
 
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