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Discussion Starter #1
This may be difficult to explain, but here goes....

I've noticed that with lift (~2.5") my steering performance seems to go down the drain. I've had everything from spacer, bilstein 5100, Donahoe Racing, to now Toytec C/O, and all seem to make the truck a bit scary at high speeds. This is regardless of sway bar on or off, as i'm not talking about body roll.

For example: At a moving pace of ~35-45mph on dirt road with ruts/holes scattered about, when one tire (not both tires) falls into a depression, the steering wheel really tries to yank itself out of my grip in the direction of the fallen tire. Even though I'm am ready for it and and attempt to compensate (as in, my attempt to slightly move the wheel in the opposite direction at the exact nano second the tire falls), the entire truck still seems to want to follow that direction and really creates some nerve racking side to side action that makes me shut down the speed and really try and get a hold of the situation. For those of you that are going to say "slow down", trust me, I'm not crazy. I took a work truck (stock 2007 Ford F-150) down the same stretch of road I'm speaking of at the same speed, and although it bottomed out more it felt MUCH more stable on the steering and side to side.

Secondly, we've been having some hellacious winds here lately. I drove from Santa Fe to Albuquerque today with a ~30 mph sustained cross wind and literally could not keep the truck on the road. Frikin ford rangers were passin me looking like they were as stable HUM-V.

I have replaced my rack bushings, attempted to make sure my TRE's are good (I think they are), and LBJ's are new. Thoughts? Any of you other off road guru's got anything?
 

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Maybe you should drive faster so your tire skims over the depression instead of falling into it?? haha... Wind makes my truck feel unstable and I have to fight the wheel a little bit, but I don't have a problem off-road. I did notice that the Camburg coil-overs made my truck more stable off-road than the 5100's I used to have, but the 5100's seemed more stable in the wind.
 

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A higher truck will always induce more body roll-swaybars or not. Also i have found that vehicles with poor alignments tend to have issues in the wind.

As far as an F150 vs a Tundra driving the same conditions-you can compare b/c the F150 is a much heavier truck and uses a totally different frontend setup.
 

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I would imagine you put on taller and wider tires. The wider the tire the greater the imperfection of the surface. I bet with your lift still on the truck and some factory size tires it would ride alot better. Would look silly but you get the point.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I would imagine you put on taller and wider tires. The wider the tire the greater the imperfection of the surface. I bet with your lift still on the truck and some factory size tires it would ride alot better. Would look silly but you get the point.

Plausible, but, when I had stock size Michelin LTX M/S's the problem was still there. I only bumped up to 265/75/16. Not much of a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A higher truck will always induce more body roll-swaybars or not. Also i have found that vehicles with poor alignments tend to have issues in the wind.

As far as an F150 vs a Tundra driving the same conditions-you can compare b/c the F150 is a much heavier truck and uses a totally different frontend setup.

Again, not talkking about body roll.

I will try yet another alignment and see, and yes I agree the F-150 is heavier. However my old chevy colorado never had trouble???

Thanks for the responses guys!
 

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My truck never did that with the 2 1/2 lift running 285/75/16 mt tires,
and also did not do it with the 6 inch rcd and same tires, both lifts were with camburg uca's.....UNTIL...

I changed to the 315/75/16 mt's...now it will follow every crack in the road or off road the rutts or holes (I know the feeling your talking about)

I was able to compensate by adjusting the air pressure in the tires, for me 47 front/45 rear no load on the street and 20 front and rear off road it helped somewhat (not as bad).

I took it to scott nichols toyota in silver and had them do an alignment and it fixed about 70% of that feel..

here are the print outs before and after the alignment.

(note): I dont think these specs will work for your, there just an example of what was wrong with mine.

also they show the tire size wrong.

I guess to sum it up, it sounds like the tires or alignment not the lift to me...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for that info nytrous....I'm getting the hint you all think I need an alignment :D. Yesterday i told my alignmnent guy to use dj's specs. He had a few problems with some of the numbers, but since I've had 5 alignments with him in the past two months, he knew what my frustration was about and did it anyway. Didn't fix sh*t. In fact, sway/pull following ruts and holes is worse now.

Something came to me last night as I was trying to sleep, I remember seeing a thread somewhere on here (couldn't find with a quick search) about rear axle shift. Someone brought up that they felt their axle had been pushed to one side or another. I've always thought mine was a bit off through th eyeball method, but pulled the tape out this morning. I found that measuring from the outside wall of the frame to the exact midpoint of the tire did infact differ between the two sides. The passenger side is 1/4" further from the frame than the drivers side. This has got to be the problem, no? I assume the numbers should be the exact same.

Thoughts? If you don't mind, what are your all's measurements?

Frame to midpoint of tire drivers side: 10"
Frame to midpoint of tire passenger side: 10 and 1/4"
 

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I just checked mine. I have different tires and wheels than you, so the exact numbers don't really matter, but mine is shifted to the pass. side 1/2". Driver side is 18". Pass. side is 18 1/2". I don't know if that is normal or not. My truck drives fine on gravel, mud, dirt, etc. but it did pull to the side on rutted pavement. I figured it was the 315-75-16 tires. It did seem to get better when I aired the fronts up to 50 psi.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Interesting. Thanks. Lets see what other people say before we assume a normal. I'm hoping it's not normal so i can easily fix this handling prob!
 

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Interesting. Thanks. Lets see what other people say before we assume a normal. I'm hoping it's not normal so i can easily fix this handling prob!
I would play with the tire pressure, that work the best for me.....plus its free :)
 

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negrotundra,

i say it's the roof rack. final answer. j/k :clown:

what is the tire pressure you are running? could too much or too little be playing a factor???

it seems like there is some common denominator other than coil overs that is giving you fits. food for thought.

perhaps your new steering rack bushings are just making things a bit more "responsive" than you were accustomed to??

i wonder if there is some kind of bump steer kit that could be installed? people add them all the time on other vehicles. come to think of it, i have never seen a bump steer kit for a gen 1 before. i dunno???
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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Sounds like the Problem you are having is due to LOW Caster angle...
I'm going to second this thought. Low caster is going to make the steering all kinds of squirrelly, and one thing that your before and after alignment printouts is missing is the caster numbers.

Find out what they are and post back.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm going to second this thought. Low caster is going to make the steering all kinds of squirrelly, and one thing that your before and after alignment printouts is missing is the caster numbers.

Find out what they are and post back.

Well, those weren't my alignment numbers if you look back, but, my caster is currently 2.3 on either side.
 

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2015 Toyota Tundra DC SR5 5.7L
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Bump. Does that caster number seem to be okay?
It's fine. It's at the upper end of the Toyota "specs", exactly what I have mine set at. To give you some idea, Mercedes sedans have a factory caster of around 10°!

If you've eliminated tires and alignment, I can't reason where the squirrelly steering is coming from. I do not think it is directly related to your lift though. Are you positive your steering rack is tight? How about the power steering pump?
 

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Post all of your alignment numbers...caster, camber, and toe.

Also post your tire size and pressure, and if you have an otherwise stock truck, or if you have a winch & bumper, shell, rack, or other stuff.

Finally, the width and backspacing of your wheels.

Inspect the steering rack and its mounting points. With the truck off and in park, key in the ignition, and the parking brake set, have someone apply some force to the wheel while you watch the steering rack.

I have not experienced what you are describing except when caster was too low, or tire pressure was too high.

-Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Post all of your alignment numbers...caster, camber, and toe.

Also post your tire size and pressure, and if you have an otherwise stock truck, or if you have a winch & bumper, shell, rack, or other stuff.

Finally, the width and backspacing of your wheels.

Inspect the steering rack and its mounting points. With the truck off and in park, key in the ignition, and the parking brake set, have someone apply some force to the wheel while you watch the steering rack.

I have not experienced what you are describing except when caster was too low, or tire pressure was too high.

-Sean
Camber: LF: 0.7
Camber: RF: 0.6

Caster 2.3

Total Toe 0.11

see my sig for tire size and mods, nothing special, stock 16" wheels. I run tire pressure @ 42psi front, 40 psi rear. And yes, I have watched my rack while someone turns wheels back and forth. Slight movement, nothing like before the T/C bushings.
 
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