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Those with after-market wheels know that the stock wheel studs are pretty short. TireRack usually throws in Extended Thread lug nuts and while those do work, I'm not a big fan of them.
Others have replaced their stock wheel studs with Dorman 610-558 (ceramic coated) or 610-471 (zinc plated). These studs are 9/16" instead of the stock M14 so you will definitely be buying new lug nuts. I used Gorilla 41198XLHT. I used the 610-471 studs and they fit well - the only thing to note is that the knurl section is about .01" larger than stock. This does not appear to be an issue as I was able to pull them all in without issue.

Another option is the ARP 100-7736. The knurl is about .01" smaller than stock but it still retains the stock M14 size. If I had to do it over again I would start with these as I like the idea of the lug nut thread size staying the same.

The process is fairly easy. On the back you pull the caliper and caliper bracket off. The brake disc comes off next - use two metric bolts in the smaller holes next to where the lug nuts are to push it off. Don't touch the parking brake assembly (I'll tell you why in a minute). Thread an old lug nut on most of the way and hit it with a hammer. You have to hit it more than a tap but less than a full swing - start easy and work up. Once it starts moving remove the lug nut and finish driving the stud out. You can work the old stud out easily between the hub and parking brake.

Putting the new stud in is even easier. You can fit the new longer studs in between the hub and parking brake without issue. Start it in the hole and use a couple washers and the right size nut to fully seat the stud. My electric impact wrench did this easily. You may have to put the truck in neutral to rotate the hub so you can get the stud started in the hole without fouling on the parking break assembly, but you should not need to remove the parking break assembly.

When you're all done it's time to put it back together - pay attention because here is where I messed up. At the bottom of the parking brake is a star wheel adjuster. Turn that in before putting the brake disc back on. If you don't, you'll have trouble putting the brake rotor on and you'll bend the brake backing plate when you try to hammer it on. Then the dealer will call you and tell you it's going to cost $450 to replace the brake backing plate and the parking brake shoe you ruined in the process. The backing plate part number is 46503-0c020 for the right side. You're also going to need a couple seals too (90312-a0002 and 90301-a0020). Don't be stupid like me. :)

The process for the front is largely the same, except that there is not enough room to install the longer studs. You can remove the hub if you want to do it the right way, or use a hammer to bend the splash shield. I went with door #2, just take your time and don't go crazy. Make sure you bend it back - I used a body dolly to get it back to where it was.

At the end of the day I now have 18-20 turns of the lugnut depending if I am running summer or winter wheels. Before this I had 5-6 turns of the lugnut on the summer wheels (Tire Rack said that was ok but I didn't like it) or 6-7 turns with Extended Thread lugnuts on my winter wheels. The stock studs are about 1.8" long and the Dorman studs are 2.5" long.
 
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