All you'll really need is the upper pulley.
The TRD motor/ TRD proto-type supercharged motor my buddy bought didn't even have the lower bracket or lower pulley that mounts to AC stud/bolt location.
The lower pulley does help keep the belt tighter. As you have to put it on AFTER you put the tightest belt EVER on the Tundra to eliminate boost loss/belt slip
The proto-type motor did also NOT have the coolant housing with the snout brace support bracket mount.
YOU do need the TRD 160 degree thermostat or equivalent 160 Degree Tundra Thermostat.
Then get some NGK Iridium ( Heat range 7) spark plugs ,... not the IK22's ... I've found the NGK plugs are much better and they do not foul up as the Denso IK22's do.
The IK22 plugs I found from testing 4 sets get cold on one side and hot on other sides at no matter what Air//fuel ratios you go with.
Here's some Parts/Part numbers
Upper Pulley:
Steel idler pulley assembly: 3.0L V6, 3.4L V6 & 4.7L V8 TRD superchargers PTR30-21040
4.7L TRD supercharger belt:
Supercharger Belt - 4.7L V8 PTR30-34046
TRD 4.7L thermostat:
Champion ToyotaWorld
Upgrade the transmission valve body. IPT transmission is where it should be upgraded.
The boost solenoid you don't have and won't need.
Do you have the boost actuator/mount?
Download the TRD installation instructions and gather the remainder of the bolts/lengths specified in the instructions. Rubber lines, ect.
Get some zip ties for a clean installation of the wires/rubber lines.
Fuel lines... go with what works. The fuel rail lines can be made with -6AN fittings.
Holley's ...Earls plumbing has what you'll need/require.
Get 3: 12mm x 1.25mm -6AN fittings for the left and right fuel rails.
And the last 1 is for the rear fitting on the back of the supercharger inlet that will be feeding fuel to the injector(s) .. thus spraying fuel into the supercharger rotors.
Get a -6AN ... Female T fitting for the drivers side fuel rail to feed to the passenger side fuel rail and of course to the auxiliary injector(s)
Get what-ever fuel line plumbing you feel comfortable using. Holley has plenty to choose from.
I highly recommend you Get the TRD Kazuma LSD for the added power.
I had the stock LSD and it was no match for the added torque/HP.
Even with 33's and 12.5" wide tires.
I later on upgraded to 4.56 gears and the ARB Air locker... I plan on going back to the Kazuma with 800 lb-Ft torque pre-tensioned clutch pads instead of the standard 400 lb-ft. I live where it rains 60-70% of the year. Wet roads are dangerous with the added power and the way I drive.
Stock block is FINE!
Its the rods and pistons that are the weak link.
I've beat the living hell outta my motor for over 35K miles and its still together.
Its had its fair share of extreme detonation (when getting it tuned and where the stock Unichip maps were running the motor dangerously lean at 14.7 AFR's under WOT!!!) and its still together. Is that enough to convince you. Don't EVER trust what Unichip gives out on the stock maps for the TRD supercharger application. Get it professionally tuned ! I ended up burning through 2 sets of stock OEM Toyota catalytic converters
Recommended are HJS German Made Metallic Substrate Catalytic converters which are capable of handling 1900 degree EGT's
2.5" dual exhaust/X piped would be the biggest upgrade for the truck/motor as well as the stock 1 7/8" piping before the Y-piping is why the EGT's are so high.
I routinely saw 1400-1450 degree temps under WOT no matter what Air fuel ratios the truck was tuned to at 3 different dyno shops. Stock ceramic substrate 600 cell catalytic converters are only good for around 1450-1470 tops. I had melt downs Twice! Over 20 hrs of dyno tuning has spent on the truck. All 3 dyno tuners hated tuning the truck as they would only charge me a set rate and not hourly rates.
Even went down to the Unichip Headquarters with Aaron McEvoy but didn't have much success there either.
If I had to guess I'd say my setup is putting out 400- 410 HP / 430 TQ at the crank.
8-8.5 lbs of boost my setup is generating with all the mods listed.
Drive-train losses are 26-28 % on the 4x4.
If all this seems like too much money and effort.. Just sell the thing.
I would if I was you.
Its going to cost you alot to get everything running right.
If I had to do it all over again... I'd NEVER have gotten the TRD supercharger.
Its cost was just too much. Tuning... Air fuel ratio sensors/gauges. EGT sesnors, gauges .
Then them going out when I needed them the most.
The need for headers, More tuning. Exhaust mods.
Valve body upgrade, The need for the Kazuma LSD... coil packs going out after 90K miles
After all that B.S. and 2 years later it still doesn't run right.
Now it currently needs 2500 dollars worth of exhaust work and the proper catalytic converters that are required now.
Couple months ago I said the hell with the Tundra and bought the new 2012 Jeep SRT8.
I figured... Buy it Fast instead of having to make it go faster. And all the B.S. that's required.
Keep it stock. Save yourself the hassle.
Plus I think the Unichip is Crap.
Talk to URD USA if you really want to install this supercharger.
Get his UCON EMS kit that he has planned to come out. Far superior than the Uni-Crap.
