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So I have a 06 DC 4WD 4.7L. Truck has about 176k miles. Decided to change out the lower control arm bushings and steering rack bushing with polyurethane ones from energy suspension and daystar. The steering rack was no biggie. But the lower control arm cam bolts were seized and took my a day and a half cutting them out and putting the new ones in. Gotta love WI winters. I thought it looked like there was too much of a gap in there when I put them back in. Didn't think too much of it, but steering feels way off, and looking at some Youtube videos from people changing out their bushing looks like I need to get washers in there. I was wondering if anyone on the forum has done this with these: Front Control Arm Bushings - Toyota Tundra - KT03012BK

Gonna take everything apart again as soon as I find the washers I need. They'll have to fit the cam bolts and go in between the bushing and frame on the lower control arm. Also if anyone had any idea of parts numbers that'd be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance!
 

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Update. So I called Daystar customer service and inquired about my situation. Since they don't supply any washers with the kits, you're supposed to use the old ones. Since mine are shot, i grabbed measurements and will be heading to Fastenal tomorrow. Four 3 inch washers for 3/4" bolts and four 2.5 inch washers for 3/4 bolts at 1/8th thickness. Getting an alignment tomorrow and will wrench on the truck when it stops raining here. Figure it should be ok to drive to work and back for a few days. Luckily everything is greased and new so putting the washers in should be quick. And gratefully I have the lifetime warranty at Firestone. My tech also has a tundra so he's familiar with the set up.
 

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@wi06tundradc Does Fastenal make them in stainless steel or are they just cheap steel?
 

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Jack, Fastenal actually didn't have them. I ended up ordering some from McMasterCarr. They should be here in a few days and I'll prob get around to them next week or weekend. Went and got an alignment done today and truck drives like the first time I bought her. Once they get put in I'll get another alignment done.
 

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I'm having to replace my lower control arms on my newly acquired tundra and I found out that buying a whole new control off summit racing was cheaper, I'm sure less of a headache then removing the bushing and pressing them back in.
 

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I'm having to replace my lower control arms on my newly acquired tundra and I found out that buying a whole new control off summit racing was cheaper, I'm sure less of a headache then removing the bushing and pressing them back in.
You are more than correct sir.

I searched and searched the forums and internet and never found a solid answer on the questions of LCA bushings and whatnot. I wish I knew then what I have learned and know now. So, for anyone reading this because of searching and not knowing..... heeeeeere ya go!

The point of my upcoming rant is this: Just replace them with stock bushings. Hell, buy a new arm with bushings installed, I wish I did. I tried to improve my truck and save money and ended up wasting money, having to perform the work THREE TIMES and almost ruined my frame tabs because of the Daystar crap. Daystar/Poly bushings are dumb. PLUS you need the cushion of the stock type rubber. Otherwise you start to bend and break much more expensive things. I went from stock to poly to stock/moog bushings. All work done in my driveway/garage. Thank god for torches, my harbor freight press, pullers of all sorts and the F-word. All that being said, yes, I drive my truck. 100K then I went mod crazy have have since logged 90k more of abuse. I have a very loved, very "used", daily driver.

I just finished installing MOOG bushings (be sure to install the bushings "upright", it matters. The little square rubber tabs are 12 and 6 o'clock when the LCA is in the ride height position/angle ). Why? I had this Daystar kit and it was GARBAGE. I called Daystar, emailed Daystar and their answer to me was "well the kit doesn't need them but it's a truck to truck basis and some of our customers have used bushings and THEY said they worked "even better"".....ya, BS. I had to make washers with a lathe that lightly press-fit onto the sleeves of the daystar bushings, the things were beauties. Got it aligned by the guy out here in Orange County that does all of Camburg's trucks and all the long travel guys' trucks. Drove 50-100miles and checked tightness of my FACTORY TOYOTA alignment cams/bolts.....

SIDE NOTE:
DO NO USE MOOG OR SPECIALTY PRODUCTS alignment hardware, it is also garbage. I found my four sleeves/cams on EBAY for $65. The MOOG stuff I got on amazon was $80 and didn't work. MOOG uses two equal length bolts which equate to one being too long and one being too short as the front and rear LCA bushings are different lengths. The rear stuck out of the nut almost an inch and the front didn't even thread all the way through the nut when tight. PLUS, the cams are made of a softer steel and BEND. PLUUUS, the bolts actually cut into the cam on the threaded side of the bolt itself. Complete and total waste.

.....So I checked my LCA bolt tension twice, drove out to some trails, checked tension again and drove some fire roads for a few hours, nothing crazy. Finished, tightened my bolts a fourth time and drove home. Wouldn't you know it, my alignment was toast. "But, off roading messes up your alignment"... no. I've hit these trails 6 times much harder with stock bushings and it was fine. SO, I ordered my moog replacements and here we are. Good as new.

The PROBLEM with Daystar bushings:
The feel of them while driving is great, much more positive and "solid". Their issue is the thickness of the metal sleeve that presses through the bushing. It has a thin wall which in turn gives it very little surface area to grab with, so when tightened to 102ftlbs or anything close, the sleeve actually cuts into the frame tabs it's being squeezed by and on top of that, is easily shifted when driving trails a brave person in a Rav4 could do. I thought my beautiful grade 8, shop lathed washers were the answer. They were no match for the lack of engineering from Daystar. The stock bushing and stock/moog bushings have a big washer on both sides that are joined to the inner sleeve which means it's one piece which means when the bolt is tightened and the tabs squeeze the bushing/washers, the washers ALSO push back to help the squeeze and have muuuuch more holding power. Ding ding ding, problem solved.

Any questions on steering rack, lower ball joint, upper and lower control arms, total chaos upper uniball replacement, driveshaft center support bearing or honestly anything you could be brave enough and dumb enough to try in your driveway, I promise you I've done it and have a few tricks to share...... PM me hahaha:nerd2:
 

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The point of my upcoming rant is this: Just replace them with stock bushings. Hell, buy a new arm with bushings installed, I wish I did. I tried to improve my truck and save money and ended up wasting money, having to perform the work THREE TIMES and almost ruined my frame tabs because of the Daystar crap. Daystar/Poly bushings are dumb. PLUS you need the cushion of the stock type rubber. Otherwise you start to bend and break much more expensive things.
What exactly was bending or on the verge of breaking?


The PROBLEM with Daystar bushings:
The feel of them while driving is great, much more positive and "solid". Their issue is the thickness of the metal sleeve that presses through the bushing. It has a thin wall which in turn gives it very little surface area to grab with, so when tightened to 102ftlbs or anything close, the sleeve actually cuts into the frame tabs it's being squeezed by and on top of that, is easily shifted when driving trails a brave person in a Rav4 could do. I thought my beautiful grade 8, shop lathed washers were the answer. They were no match for the lack of engineering from Daystar. The stock bushing and stock/moog bushings have a big washer on both sides that are joined to the inner sleeve which means it's one piece which means when the bolt is tightened and the tabs squeeze the bushing/washers, the washers ALSO push back to help the squeeze and have muuuuch more holding power. Ding ding ding, problem solved.
Great info. Sounds like the washers you created need better mechanical fastening to the inner sleeve to work under the load stress.
 

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What exactly was bending or on the verge of breaking?
---The frame tabs where the control arm is plugged in. Part of which is due to the next quote on the washers not really doing much. More so, specifically to the daystars, the tiny metal sleeve actually cookie cuts a self sized hole in the tabs. From personal observation, my mini trail adventure put enough force back into the bushing to move it even after being very tight. Too tight even. Greatly due to the washer providing very little. Well, if the bushing moved, how could anything bend or break? Isn't the force absorbed by the sliding bushing? No, the bushing sliding means the sleeve is eating what little tab material there is to hold on to and once that is gone.... thin tab, destroyed channels/holes for alignment cams/sleeves/bolts. Obviously a catastrophic failure isn't in the forecast unless the driver somehow ignores or is unable to detect such an impairment.... Again, bigger picture, I'm not saying LCA poly bushings are for dummies that don't drive. I'm saying the daystar kit is a waste of time unless you have way too much time, skill and resources on your hands to make them work. A bigger hole in the poly with a much thicker walled metal cylinder as a sleeve, ok maybe. Maybe even a multi piece set up like the heim lowers in a long travel set up but..... that's a bit wild if all you wanted to do was keep your truck on the road and maybe tighten up the wheel a bit.

I think white line makes some sweet stuff but at least when I looked, I couldn't find a set of their LCA bushings for 1st gen Tundras.




Great info. Sounds like the washers you created need better mechanical fastening to the inner sleeve to work under the load stress.
---You are exactly right. Maybe if one could somehow TIG the washers to the sleeve and keep them flat and smooth.....sure, but that's out of my skill set entirely haha THEN the only issue is that the washers will sliiiiightly cone when torqued and then driven. Stock, moog stock, daystar jimmy-rig, they all do it. It'd just be up to finding something that did it the least, that way the bolts stay tight longer.
Anyhoo, if you get bored, you might try googling around for tundras/tacomas/4runners that have had the LCA eyelet ripped out. A bit more extreme than what I was talking about as far as bending/breaking but it's pretty trippy. A few weeks ago a 1st gen tundra landed in the junkyard by my house with some LT kit on it, heim'd lowers, tore one of the bolts right out. Sure, the truck was toast via a massive front/driver side impact but...it's happened. haha
 

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Has anyone had experience with ACDelco lower control arms (w/bushings), from RockAuto?
I'm torn...

ACDelco $86 per arm w/bushings
OEM $246 per arm w/bushings

@Tanknology if you have any input, I would appreciate it...
 

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Why not buy the Toyota OEM bushings instead? they're the best in my opinion. My originals lasted 10+ years, I just replaced them with OEM Toy and they worked great, and I am sure they'll last a long time again.
 

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Update. So I called Daystar customer service and inquired about my situation. Since they don't supply any washers with the kits, you're supposed to use the old ones. Since mine are shot, i grabbed measurements and will be heading to Fastenal tomorrow. Four 3 inch washers for 3/4" bolts and four 2.5 inch washers for 3/4 bolts at 1/8th thickness. Getting an alignment tomorrow and will wrench on the truck when it stops raining here. Figure it should be ok to drive to work and back for a few days. Luckily everything is greased and new so putting the washers in should be quick. And gratefully I have the lifetime warranty at Firestone. My tech also has a tundra so he's familiar with the set up.
 

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You joined the site to copy a bunch of posts? What is wrong with you?
 
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