I use Mobile 1 0w-20 in my Tundra. I find it at Schucks Auto, which I think is now Checker Auto.Thanks for you input. Ive always wanted to run 0w-20 since the beginning; but seems at all the walmarts I buy at, they never have 0-20 on the shelf, only 5-20. Though I have started to notice 0-30 on the shelves, this is the reason I ask the question.
Thanks for you input. Ive always wanted to run 0w-20 since the beginning; but seems at all the walmarts I buy at, they never have 0-20 on the shelf, only 5-20. Though I have started to notice 0-30 on the shelves, this is the reason I ask the question.
I've often wondered what the diff is. Well put. Points sent.the difference between 0w20 and 5w20 is the flow of the oil at startup. The 0w will flow better at cold temps over the 5w. At operating temperature, they flow the same, hence the 20.
By putting in a 0w30 you will get better start up flow, but a higer viscosity at operating temp, in theory hurting gas mileage.
Go to mobils website and read the data sheets.
You want a 0w20 or a 5w20 syn.
Toyota literature claims that 0W-20 synthetic will improve mileage 0.4 - 0.6 MPG compared to 5W-20 conventional. However, the 0.5 MPG saving is offset by the extra cost of 0W-20 synthetic.
Example: 5000 miles @ 18.5 miles per gallon = $676 in gas (at $2.50 per gallon)
5000 miles @ 19.0 miles per gallon = $657 in gas
Gas savings = $19
7 quarts of 0W-20 synthetic oil @ 6.30 per quart = $44.10
7 quart of 5W-20 conventional @ 3.00 per quart = $21.00
Added expense of 0W-20 synthetic oil = $23.10
Fleet car managers know all this and thats why nearly all of them use conventional oil instead of synthetic.
Viscosity goes UP with heat? I must say that is counter intuitive and illogical.
In a strange twist of irony, I can't get any Mobil One 0W-20 in Canada either....only 5W-20.P.S. to the original poster (i lost track of who is who) It looks like you live in texas. you don't need 0w-20, it never gets cold enough for that to have any advantage over 5w-20. I'm surprized you can find ANY 0w-20 in texas.
Its a chemistry thing. There are large molecules in the oils that ball up when cold and act like molecular ball bearings, meaning that they don't interact with (stick to) each other. This thinner oil helps get oil where it needs to go faster on a cold startup, but it doesn't protect as well. The thinking is, on a cold/dry start getting more oil flowing faster is more important than getting the best protection.
When they get hot, the unfold into long chains. These chains tent to stick together like velcro, and when they stick, the make the oil thicker by arranging themselves into long/large associations of hundreds of individual molecules. These thick layers of molecules protect the surfaces of motor better, but don't flow as well. The thinking here is that you are continuously lubricating the motor and not fighting a dry start up, so getting optimum surface protection is better.