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Discussion Starter #1
I didn't take as many pics as I should have.. guess I was just busy trying to get the install done! ha :D

I knew I wanted to have a great sounding system, but keep it within a very reasonable budget. I'm not going to try and compete with it (knowing I'd get my but kicked in the "pretty" department)... but I am quite picky, and knew I would want for more if I didn't do it right the first time. I had a little bit of equipment from a previous install, so I already had a nice 4 gauge wiring kit, and my trusty JL 450/4 amplifier for use in this system. I scoured DIYMA.com - Quality in Sound, Content & Membership (great mobile audio forum) for a set of Focal K2 Power 6.5" components, and found a 6 mo. old set that I scored for 450 shipped to my door. They are perfect, with all documentation, box, grills, etc. and are in perfect working condition. These are absolutely amazing components, and if you ever get a chance to listen to them, you'll see why. I then knew I would need the lower octave, and always was impressed with Image Dynamics subwoofers, so on Diyma, I found a set of Image Dynamics ID-8 D2 8 inch subwoofers. Again, these were used, but in perfect condition, and got the pair shipped to my house for $125.00. I was to a point where I knew I needed a good deck to run and control everything from, so I grabbed a BNIB Alpine CDA-9887 in-dash CD player. I chose the Alpine for it's high volt outs, 5-band parametric EQ, and great crossover options. I've also had great luck with Alpines in the past, so there is some brand loyalty. I was considering the Pioneer DEH-P800PRS, but the iPod interface on the Alpine is vastly superior, and is what ultimately won me over. (Yes.. I know, iPod sounds like garbage, but I use it for my daily listening, and keep the "important" CDs in the truck for more discerning listening). I used eBay and found some R-Blox sound deadener... I know it's not the best sound deadener, but again, being on a really tight budget, I figured some was better than none. I was right. hehe. I picked up the interface to allow steering wheel controls and the mounting kit for the head unit from Crutchfield, and I was set.

Some initial pics of starting the install...



Getting her stripped out...




Got the doors deadened. Coated the exterior skin with two layers of R-Blox, and then one layer on the inner framework. Was sure to clean the entire area of install with brake clean and rubbing alcohol, and took the time to really put some pressure on it with the roller, and not get any bubbles. Also, I used MDF to make the mounting plate to mount the 6.5" Focals in the doors, as they need to be spaced off to allow the window to come down without hitting the magnet.




Got my wiring run, and the amplifier mounted.



All installed, and ready to rock! Subwoofer enclosure is using the stock storage. I used silicone and "Great Stuff" expanding foam to seal the space. I used MDF and secured it to the framework of the space and then sealed it all up to close up the big holes. I used 3/4" wide weatherstripping on the top of the storage space to seal up against the 3/4" MDF top. I made the top from scratch using 3/4" MDF. I used a router to flush the subs into the top, and a round over bit to finish it off a little bit. I trimmed the surrounding carpet as not to interfere with the seal on the top of the enclosure, but have it tucked under the edge of the baffle for a nice look. (Don't mind the small hole above the amplifier. I was using my drill and a large bit to separate the two pieces that make the storage pocket, and the bit "grabbed" the plastic, pulling it through the front. Oh well, can't see it with the seat up. Also, I had to remove the decorative plastic piece from the underside of the seat as it would've contacted the woofers at max excursion. No good. Again, no biggie as you can't really tell with the seat down.





All in all, it was a very fun installation. It sounds great, and fits my needs. I'm thinking of relocating the tweeters from the stock location to the backside of the factory kickpanels, near the doors, but need to experiment first. I'm also considering adding another amplifier dedicated to the subwoofers, and then going "active" with the outputs on the Alpine. It's difficult to get much staging out of the fronts (no rear fill), and I think this will help greatly. There is nice time-alignment in the Alpine, but again, the current speaker placement is not fantastic for this.

Also, I can post up more pics if anyone wants to see anything else. (maybe not the inside of the box.. hehe.. I didn't get any before i put the top on, and it's too much of a pain to take it off..)

Thanks for looking!

Also, here is a link to my 02 Tundra install...
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/audio-and-stereo/43835-02-limited-jl-install/
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh, and all told, I have approx. $1350.00 in the whole thing. I got the JL Amplifier on a smoking deal a number of years ago, and was thrifty on everything else! LOL
 

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Great set up and really nice equipment! Nice work on the install, looks very clean. Love that 450/4, just bought a 300/4 myself and I love it.
 

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Looks fantastic! I know it sounds awesome because of the Focal components and JL Audio amp.
 

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Only thing I would change is the routing of the power feed to the amp. Running the positive cable within such a close proximity to the RCA/Signal wires (under the center console / transmissin tunnel) usually leads to producing "alternator whine". If its working for you, great! If you start to pick up a high pitched whining noise as you accelerate, you have a weak ground, or need to space out those above mentioned wires. Looks great otherwise. Love the Amp and Speaker choices!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I know what you mean about power/rca location proximity. I was limited with the interconnects I had, and at that point, was kinda committed to the install... LOL. They actually cross at one point, but I made sure to route them so they cross as close to perpendicular as possible. No whine at all. Also, I used the JL grounding lug, which is a pretty beefy bolt/nut combo that really ensures a great grounding point.

Thanks for the kind words everyone!

Caleb
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the kind words everyone... rekindled my love affair with two things.... great music (and recordings), and mobile audio installs. Such fun with both.
 

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such a nice install, and great choice of equipment. How did you mount the amp to the back wall? Just some self-drilling sheet metal screws? Does the "pocket" on the back of the plastic piece come off pretty easy?

thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Oh, yeah, sorry. Yes, the amp is just metal screwed to the back wall of the cab.. ran them in to start the hole, backed them out, silicone caulked the hole, then ran the screw back through to help prevent rust. The pocket came off pretty easy.. used a large drill bit and drilled out the melted plastic "welds", and it popped right off. Be careful if you do that though, as my bit "grabbed" on one, and pulled through the front.. hence the small hole above the amp. LOL.. Oh well, can't see it with the seat up!!!

Thanks again for the compliments... I still get excited to listen to stuff on it.
 

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awesome. thx man. getting ready to install an Orion 2150sx on that back wall as soon as it arrives. :) Picked up a set of CDT comps for the front stage. What size MDF did you use for your front door baffles? My CDT's mounting depth is 2.5".

You mentioned in your first post that you were thinking of relocating the tweeters to the kick panels. Did you end up doing that? I was going to try the factory door tweeter location b/c i really don't want to put them all the way up in the sails. I hadn't thought about putting only the tweeters in the kicks, but that doesn't sound like a bad idea if i can achieve the proper angle.

Oh, and by the way, check out Apple Lossless. CD quality sound on the iPod. I use EAC to rip (rips better than iTunes, especially for scratched CD's) from the CD to WAV, then import the WAV to iTunes by holding down the SHIFT key and clicking "Advanced" at the top menu bar in iTunes. Holding SHIFT will allow you to choose "Convert to Apple Lossless...", from there you can select your WAV files, and it will convert them to Apple Lossless and add them to iTunes. They're about the same size as FLAC files (20-40 MB per song). The only bad thing is that you have to add the tags and album art manually, but it's not that bad. Just select all the songs in the album, right click, and choose "Get Info". From there add the artist name, album name, and the album art (just copy an image and paste it into the album art box). Then go to "Get Info" in each individual song to add the track #. There are some programs out there that will convert to Apple Lossless with the tags and album art (Foobar or dbPowerAmp i think), but this method works for me. I'm running my iPhone through aux in on the factory HU, mounted nicely in landscape view for easy control via CoverFlow :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I haven't had a chance to play around with the tweeter location.. I'm thinking of putting them on that 2" bevel on the factory kicks, but again, I haven't tried it yet... busy as always. I think it will dramatically improve the front stage imaging, especially with the kick-*** time alignment the Alpine has.

Also, yes, I'm going to try Apple Lossless to see if that makes a big difference (I'm sure it will). If that's the case, then I have a lot of work because I have about 60 gigs of music on my iPod...

always something... ha!

Post up some pics of your install! I'm excited to see how yours turns out!

Good luck.

Caleb
 

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dude, i think you're spot on with that tweeter location. I'm going to do that. Unfortunately, i'm using the factory HU, a LOC, and an old school Orion amp, so i have no control over the time alignment. I'll just have to make do until i upgrade my HU. Btw, i'm also brand faithful to Alpine HU's. I had a 9827 in my '84 4Runner and loved it. That 9887 looks badass. Have you looked at the IMPRINT tuning kit? It's $250, but Crutchfield will allow you to return it within 30 days for a $50 restocking fee. And if you don't open the software, you can return it for a full refund. You can download the software here so you never have to open the software that comes with the Crutchfield kit (i'm assuming). :)

Yeah, give the Apple Lossless a try. It's true lossless audio, so it's the exact same quality as a CD. It'll be a ***** to convert your whole collection, but might want to consider it for future rips.

I'll be sure to post pics of my install. I'm hoping to be able to install the comps this weekend, but i'm having an issue with my alarm's locking relay which is located in the door. I don't want to seal it off until i get that thing fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes, I'll have a hard time getting anything other than Alpine.. i had a CDA-9815 previously, and it was amazing (see my 02 install for that)... Although, the new Pioneer top-end decks look pretty sweet. FYI, I picked this deck up on Ebay, NIB for 250 bucks... works great. I have thought about the Imprint equiment, but I feel that I can do just as good of a job with my ears..

I really need to take the time and just temp. locate the tweets down on the kickpanels to try it out.. wouldn't be too difficult for me to do.. just other domestic requirements take precedence!

Looking forward to your experience and pics!

Take care,

Caleb
 

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Nice install and for sure go Apple Lossless, you'll hear the difference. I've got an iPod Classic dedicated to the truck and it's loaded with lossless files.
Check out a program called dbpoweramp for conversion or ripping. I had all my music stored as flac files and used dbpoweramp to convert everything to Apple while keeping my flac backups.
 

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caleb, my ID8's are on the way. Going to attempt the exact same install as yours. Did you only use two pieced of MDF on each of the short sides to cover up those big holes? Check out the attached pic. I put a green box over where i was thinking the MDF needed to go. After that, was planning on using the silicone and Great Stuff Foam to seal off everything else, and then lay Dynamat on top of everything. Will also use the rivet nuts that you recommended to secure the baffle. I will also be taking volume measurements, so if our installs are about the same, i'll share the numbers with ya and you won't need to take any. I talked to the guys at Image Dynamics and they recommended (for two ID8's) 0.70 cuft total with about 1/2 lb of polyfill.

thanks bud.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Awesome! Glad there's another ID fan on here. Yes, you are exactly correct with the pics where the MDF goes. It's not too bad.. just be thorough with the silicone and great stuff. In the corners, I used some cardboard (with the plastic backing from the dynamat as a release) wiht weights on them to get them flat at the top, under where the baffle will go. I just needed to trim it a bit with a long knife. Be sure not to cut it too far down.. it will compress a bit with the top on. Dont' need to do much silicone on the metal in the middle.. better for the dynamat to stick as well. You may need to make some "adjustments" to the bottom of the cavity... depending on where you cut the speaker holes in the baffle, as there wasn't quite enough clearance when I routed the speakers flush in the baffle. By adjustment, I mean, whack at it with a hammer 'til it fits! LOL

Good luck. Excited to see some pics of the install!
 
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