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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I call this a semi-budget install because I don't think I totally cheaped out on my stuff but it is definitely not as expensive as it could have been. My finances would have allowed for better components but it probably would have ended in a divorce so I decided against it. I'm just gonna throw some pics up now but please feel free to ask me any questions. I'm also not done cleaning up the wiring but it is close enough for you to get an idea. I'll add some additional pics later (I know I need more pics of the headunit).

Summary of the equipment:

Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD Headunit w/ iPod control
Polk DB6501 Components (Front)
Polk DB651 Coaxials (Rear)
(2) RE Audio REX8 Subwoofers in Custom Box
Clarion APX4361 4-Channel Amp (90Wx2 to the DB6501s and 320Wx1 to the REX8s)
Boyo Reverse Camera
Wiring and RCAs from Knukonceptz

I'm not done tuning the system but my overall first impressions are that it sounds great. In high school I had a 240SX hatch back with a single Infinity Perfect 12 sub powered by a 400W Precision Power amp so I know what pretty solid bass sounds like. These REX8s aren't quite as forceful as that Perfect 12 was but I would say they are much more musically balanced. Don't get me wrong, these little 8s will render my rear view mirror completely useless but they are by no means set up for an SPL system.

-Wes


Clarion APX4361: I love this amp, especially for the money, Robert Zeff design (ever heard of Zapco? :) ) The APX4361 also comes with a brushed aluminum cover but I made this one from .125" acrylic.


Don't mind the balled up pile of work clothes and towels in the corner; I normally keep my truck clean, haha.


I built this box out of 3/4" MDF. Kind of small at .7 cu. ft. gross but I threw about .7 lbs of polyfill in there to help it out (if anyone wants plans let me know). Also made 1/4" aluminum spacers to go under the rear seat brackets and give my subs a bit more breathing room.









 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·





I like to keep the look closer to stock under the hood so I painted my fuse holder black.










Tweeters fit in the stock sail panels pretty well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

You can see the mess in the background that my wife almost killed me over several times, haha.


Speaker adapters for the front are 1/2" Baltic Birch ply painted black. I also used the 1/4" plastic mounting ring that came with the speakers for a bit more clearance and added foam weather stripping on the back to keep rattles down.






I mounted the crossovers with industrial strength velcro...I love that stuff.


Ran new 16 awg wire rated for in wall use to the front doors.


What appears to be a bomb that needs to be diffused in my dash. With the exception of a few connections, almost all are soldered.

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·









I made the rear speaker adapters from 1/4" Plexi but I'm about to change them out for 1/2" Baltic Birch since I don't like the way the screws are in them.
 

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Wes,
Thanks for posting a bunch of pictures. I am gonna install my Polk DB6501's this weekend, I already have my tweets installed in the sail panel, and I just finished mounting my speakers in my MDF adapters. I'm gonna mount my crossover the same place you mounted yours as well as mount it on heavy duty Velcro.
I was just wondering why you mounted your front door speakers off-set in your adapters?
Thanks, SScott
 

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You almost got the same setup I got. I just got a Polk MM1040DVC sub and a 5 channel JBL amp. I dont think you cheaped out. I am sure it sounds great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wes,
Thanks for posting a bunch of pictures. I am gonna install my Polk DB6501's this weekend, I already have my tweets installed in the sail panel, and I just finished mounting my speakers in my MDF adapters. I'm gonna mount my crossover the same place you mounted yours as well as mount it on heavy duty Velcro.
I was just wondering why you mounted your front door speakers off-set in your adapters?
Thanks, SScott
I offset the speakers to ensure that I cleared the window track. This is a non issue though so don't worry about it. I'm pretty sure the DB6501 would clear even with just the 1/2" thick adapter but I threw in the 1/4" thick (actually measures about .3" if I remember correctly) plastic spacers that came with the speakers for good measure. I used T-nuts to secure the speakers and with that setup, a 1" long #6 machine screw is perfect.

-Wes
 

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Man that is very impressive!. I wish I had half your knowledge about this stuff.

Is the amp in the back powering the the door speakers? If so does that mean you had to run the stock wires to the amp and then from the amp back to each door?

Also what are those things in the front doors that say Polk Audio and have the terminals on it?

I bet it sounds awesome!

Think you'll ever pursue the steering wheel controls one day?
 

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That is very impressive, I might be able to build that box if you in fact will let me have the plans. Did you need the 1/4 in spacers or was that just a personal preference.
 

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Nice! Looking good man. I am going to be installing my system here in the next week or so, I have the same front and rears, but I have a 10" Polk mm1040DVC which i'm still trying to figure out the plans for a box for, and all of it will be powered by a Kicker KX700.5. Where did you run your power and ground at? Do you have plans for the speaker adapters you made?
 

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How do you like the 4100 head unit? Im between that and a Clarion model of similar specs. I really just want the best ipod controls and no shop around here carries that model.
 

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How do you like the tweeters mounted in the sail panels? I have a pair of the same speakers waiting to go in- Are they too "bright" mounted that high?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Man that is very impressive!. I wish I had half your knowledge about this stuff.

Is the amp in the back powering the the door speakers? If so does that mean you had to run the stock wires to the amp and then from the amp back to each door?

Also what are those things in the front doors that say Polk Audio and have the terminals on it?

I bet it sounds awesome!

Think you'll ever pursue the steering wheel controls one day?
The amp in the back is powering the front door speakers and subwoofer only while the back door speakers are being driven by the headunit. The boxes mounted on the front doors are the crossovers that came with the Polk DB6501s. I would really like to get steering wheel controls but that will have to wait for when I have more time and money to devote to this project.

-Wes
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That is very impressive, I might be able to build that box if you in fact will let me have the plans. Did you need the 1/4 in spacers or was that just a personal preference.
I feel much better with the 1/4" spacers; they were easy to do (you don't have to make them from aluminum) and it would have been really tight if I didn't have them. The clearance issues come from the wire structure under the seat and it was impossible to miss with 2 subs. If you were to build the box with 1 sub, you might be able to avoid it. My box is exactly 5" tall, so the sides I cut on the table saw were exactly 3.5" tall (3.5 + .75 + .75 = 5"). I also made the box 29" wide but you can really fit about 29.75" in there. The reason I went with 29" is because I didn't want it sitting on top of the far driver side seat bracket, which ended up being raised by 1/4" (look at it and you'll see what I mean). Here are the basic box plans:


Top View of Box


The Center Brace. Since the subs are being run mono, I didn't have to run 2 separate sealed chambers.

-Wes
 

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Nice job!! Ihave almost the same set-up with the exception of components that I put in the rear doors, I went with polk mm series in the front. How much of a pain was it getting new wires thru the doors. Thats the missing element in my setup I have an Alpine pdx-4.100 I want to install to power these speakers just havent figure out how to get the new wires in those doors
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nice! Looking good man. I am going to be installing my system here in the next week or so, I have the same front and rears, but I have a 10" Polk mm1040DVC which i'm still trying to figure out the plans for a box for, and all of it will be powered by a Kicker KX700.5. Where did you run your power and ground at? Do you have plans for the speaker adapters you made?
I ran my 4 AWG power cable down the driver side wire tray under the sill panels and I ran my 4 AWG ground wire to behind the passenger side trim panel in the very back. There is some sheet steel in the body structure and I drilled a harmless 1/4" hole there and sanded a bit of the paint off for a good ground. I hate to drill on a nearly new truck but it's where it will never be seen and did not compromise anything (other than the possibility of rust on an un-primed area). I was able to use a bolt, lock washer, star washer, and a bit of loctite in order to make an excellent ground that shouldn't come loose. Unfortunately I don't have plans for my speaker adapters. I traced them out on some manila folders from the original speakers and then transferred that to the wood.

-Wes
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
How do you like the 4100 head unit? Im between that and a Clarion model of similar specs. I really just want the best ipod controls and no shop around here carries that model.
I really can't complain too much about the 4100. Sound quality seems to be pretty good although a full blown equalizer would have been nice. Everything works well but takes a little tweaking to get right (just like most aftermarket things). One example is getting iPod video to work: took me about 30 minutes to figure out why it wasn't working. iPod control is responsive and fairly intuitive, but I actually think they made some improvements on the 4200.

-Wes
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
How do you like the tweeters mounted in the sail panels? I have a pair of the same speakers waiting to go in- Are they too "bright" mounted that high?
I like them in that spot. They aren't too bright at all (might be different if they were a titanium tweeter) and I actually had to boost the high end a bit to get the sharpness I like.

-Wes
 

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Wes,

Thanks for the info. Hope you don't mine another specific question as I want to eventually go the same route you did here.

How exactly do you power the front speakers with the amp in the back? I'm a little unsure about how the wiring is done. Is there some sort of PAC converter that attaches to the stock toyota wiring harness that allows you to run the front speaker inputs to the amp and then your wiring from the amp to the doors?

Also, how did you get the wires into the doors? I took a peak one time in that little black conduit that connects the door to the door seal and its got some molex looking connector in there. So you can't slide any wires through.

THanks!


The amp in the back is powering the front door speakers and subwoofer only while the back door speakers are being driven by the headunit. The boxes mounted on the front doors are the crossovers that came with the Polk DB6501s. I would really like to get steering wheel controls but that will have to wait for when I have more time and money to devote to this project.

-Wes
 
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