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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I need some help figuring what to do about water in the gas tank. To set up how I got into this SNAFU....
My 3 year old likes to help wash the cars by just hosing them down while I get the bucket ready. So he was spraying the car and truck while I was talking to the wife. After noticing it has been a few minutes I walk around the truck and my boy has opened the gas door, popped the gas cap off and to my horror is playing filler up in the truck!:eek: I had no Idea he could even get the gas cap off!
I checked the gauge and the needle hasn't really moved from where I got home. I have no way of knowing how much got in there. Cant have been much. No I also changed the battery to an optima while it was off on a side note.
Here is the question, how screwed an I? I fired it up for just a sec and the idle was rough so I shut it down. Not sure if I have to drop the tank and bleed the lines or if I can just get by trying to run it out. Or just take it to the dealer with a can of Vaseline. Any help would be appreciated. -Bamadoc
 

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On the top of the tank you will have a send and return line. These lines are easily accessible from under the vehicle without removing the tank and are just in front of and above the tank. Remove both lines, these have high pressure clips so you need to pop up the retainer, squeeze both sides (you will see blocks that need to be pushed in) and then pull off. Be careful not to kink the plastic fuel lines and the lines will have some static pressure so some gas will spray for a second. *most of the fuel from the injectors and line will back flow, have a jar, this will get any water forward the tank out.

Once the lines are removed connect a 1/4" hose to the feed side of the tank barb, you may need a clamp.

Run the other end hose into a fuel suitable container.

Turn the ignition on (but dont try to start).

The intank fuel pump will pump the fuel out into the container.

Once you have purged the gas reconnect the lines, add fresh gas and put 'fuel dryer' in the tank.

I could have it done in 30 mins. or so....

Good luck

~JH
 

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Go to an auto parts store and get several cans of drygas. Each can will take out its own volume in water. If there's not too much in there it will solve your problem. If that doesn't work you will have to drop the tank and drain it. There is no drain plug.

Just saw Johhny's post. That will get the water down to the pump level then the drygas will take out the rest so do his procedure first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update, I disconnected the fuel lines and got a small amount that was in the lines out. It was about 50% water and gas. My problem is that turning the key to on position doesn't make the fuel pump run. Would it be bad to turn the engine over or is there a jumper I need to connect to run the fuel pump?
Any help appreciated-Bamadoc
 

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yeah just turning the key on will only "prime" the pump. obviously it wont run continuously (have no idea why that was even suggested), talk about flooding a motor and having fuel all over the place for a fire....

make sure theres none of that water in the motor when u start it, water can hydrolock a motor real fast...and not knowing how much u have in there, it can be expensive. as for draining the tank, if it were me? i would use my oil/fluid extractor that i use for the boat's oil changes and suck out the fuel several gallons at a time till im pretty sure its dry, then do the drygas method above and hopefully u are all ok. also, if it winds up being a dealer fix, keep in mind comprehensive insurance should cover it, depending on what the deductible would be..might wanna ask ur agent.
 

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yeah just turning the key on will only "prime" the pump. obviously it wont run continuously (have no idea why that was even suggested), talk about flooding a motor and having fuel all over the place for a fire....

.

it was suggested, because it was assumed that most people would realize they need to continue cycling the key, till the tank is empty. :rolleyes:


personally i dont have the patience for any of that. and i would just drill a hole in the bottom of the tank, then seal it with marine putty when its empty.
 

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personally i dont have the patience for any of that. and i would just drill a hole in the bottom of the tank, then seal it with marine putty when its empty.
WTF?!? Are you serious? I don't even know where to begin on this one... DON'T DO ANY DRILLING ON YOUR GAS TANK!! Forget the safety issues of doing this, in states where you have emissions inspections (like here in MD) you'll fail guaranteed (unless you get someone that is too lazy to check but most places here use mirrors to check for catalytic converters and fuel line/tank modifications).
You can drain/siphon the gas/water out of your tank without much issue and use that fuel dryer or drygas stuff (I had to do something similar almost 20 years ago, so I don't remember the name of the stuff I used, but I'm assuming they're referencing the same thing) to get it to purge the remaining water/moisture from the tank...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Got it done finally. Called the dealer and talked with a tech who just recommended dropping the talk as well. Stated it was just faster. (wow) Anyway, The tank drop was pretty fast including disconnecting about 4 or 5 clips/connectors. It was the tank draining that drove me nuts! Didn't seem like an easy way to get all the gas/water out. Ended up tilting the thing on the tailgate and draining it into some 5 gallon gas cans. Drained almost 20 gallons but the gauge still read 3/4 tank. had to use my air compressor with hoses the get the rest of the mixture out. Funny thing was the last container was a 5 gallon bucket that when it settled, showed almost 1/2 was water.
Still put in the heet fuel dryer and a fresh tank of gas. The truck was in limp mode at first but I just disconnected the battery and now she is good as new. Strange that my OBD2 connector wouldn't clear the limp mode.
Thanks for all the suggestions. -Bamadoc
 

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yeah just turning the key on will only "prime" the pump. obviously it wont run continuously (have no idea why that was even suggested), talk about flooding a motor and having fuel all over the place for a fire....
Turning your key to the on position will start the fuel pump.

I would think the pump would run continuously until the fuel pressure comes up to its rated psi and shut off by the fuel pressure regulator near the fuel rail (or internally). If the pump is disconnected from the fuel system no pressure is being generated so the fuel pressure regulator wont shut off the pump.

When the system 'primes' its because the pump runs for a few seconds to get the FP to its needed level and then shuts off but I dont think this system has a second system that shuts off the pump due to a 'time factor' and only regulates via pressure.

~JH
 

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You might want to consider a locking gas cap in case Junior decides to play gas station
attendant again in the future. It is cheap insurance against other that might want to
put nasty things in your tank also.
 

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WTF?!? Are you serious? I don't even know where to begin on this one... DON'T DO ANY DRILLING ON YOUR GAS TANK!! Forget the safety issues of doing this, in states where you have emissions inspections (like here in MD) you'll fail guaranteed (unless you get someone that is too lazy to check but most places here use mirrors to check for catalytic converters and fuel line/tank modifications).

yes, i was serious. i didnt suggest it, i just said i wouldnt have the patience for the rest of that stuff.

and how is it you would fail any type of inspection, when you cant physically see that anything has been done to the tank??
 

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yes, i was serious. i didnt suggest it, i just said i wouldnt have the patience for the rest of that stuff.

and how is it you would fail any type of inspection, when you cant physically see that anything has been done to the tank??
Here in AZ, when they do your emissions test, they do a walk around of the vehicle using a mirror to check and make sure that there is nothing "odd" under the vehicle. Once they've done that, they connect the cable to the computer port, get the reading and off they go.

On the flip side, drilling a tank which contains gasoline doesn't seem like the smartest thing to do in my book. :unsure3d::unsure3d::unsure3d::unsure3d::unsure3d:
 

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yes, i was serious. i didnt suggest it, i just said i wouldnt have the patience for the rest of that stuff.

and how is it you would fail any type of inspection, when you cant physically see that anything has been done to the tank??
It would fail inspection for the very reason you quoted me before on... they use mirrors to inspect your vehicle from underneath. A hole in the gas tank would show up pretty easily...
 

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It would fail inspection for the very reason you quoted me before on... they use mirrors to inspect your vehicle from underneath. A hole in the gas tank would show up pretty easily...
not patched with marine putty it wouldnt. hence the reason i was confused why it wouldnt pass inspection. there would be no visible evidence of the repair, unless someone said to themselves "i wonder if there was a hole fixed in this gas tank, im going to get under here and make sure" even then, they would still have to feel for an uneveness in the tank at one tiny spot, which would still be questionable if a repair had ever happened.

anyway, it doesnt really matter. nobody here is doing this. and if i ever do encounter this problem, ill just go fix it, i wont be here asking questions about it. :)
 

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you can use a brake vacuum to get it out,, I have a 3 gallon one I use at work.. Or they can take of the fuel line, attach a hose to it, put it into a gas tank and run the fuel pump until its empty.. thats the easiest way.. and no it wont hurt anything I have done this many times..

i have only had to pull tanks if the water was frozen into ice... then you screwed...
 
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