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Jan 02, 2020 I bought a 04 Sequoia SR5 2x4 with 135000 miles in Naples, Florida. Major problem with the truck is a noisy differential.

I've been fixing the truck up as the weather permitted. Things were going good. Now I'm into the rear axle and I'm shocked by what I found.

I just paid $1,300 for a new differential. Took it apart today and the entire thing is messed up. Oil all over the little emergency brake shoes. I was not able to get that stupidly made thing apart because the round clips that secure the shoes are about a quarter inch from the back of the axle where the wheel bolts on. So finally I just brutalized it. How are you supposed to deal with that? What a mess.

I have new shoes and hardware kits coming. Is there some sort of a trick to this? I don't get it.

I have new axle seals. Tomorrow I will remove one of the o-rings I see around the outside ends of the axles and get them matched up so I will have new ones.

I priced new wheel bearings. WOWZERS !!!!! I hope mine are good. They should be with 135K? Yes? It seems there are seals in the bearings as well? Are the bearings lubed by the oil in the 3rd member or are they sealed?

If somebody in the know would give me a few pointers on this repair I sure would appreciate it :)
 

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Bearings are sealed units and are often washed out by bad axle seals. So unfortunately, your bearings might be bad. You can change the seal in the rear axle housing pretty easily. The bearings require special tools and a press.

There isn't an easy option for the E-Brake. It sucks. You might find some help on youtube. They used these same brakes in Siennas and some other vehicles. You will not able to use references for Tundras, as they have different axle and brake assemblies.

Check the tiny little vent on the top of the axle housing. If it is clogged or dirty than the oil will push through the seals instead when it expands from higher temps.
 

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Just now got it back together after installing the differential. Noise changed, but did not go away. So yeah, I need wheel bearings too. Lucky me.

GOD, HOW I WISH I HAD NEVER SEEN THIS SORRY SON OF A B****!
 

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You can search for my post under conk. There might be some helpful info that could be of value. Pressing on and off the bearings/retainers is not that bad if you have a press. Harbor freight has a 20 ton for $75.00 and is excellent for doing these. You can also purchase a bearing separator from them also for around $25.00 from what I remember. Don't quote me on these prices, but they're real close. With the bearing separator you'll need two 5/8" all thread (fine thread) rods you can buy from your local ace hardware or maybe hd or lowes has one cheaper. They have the harden steel ones if you choose, but not necessary. These rods will screw into the bearing splitter/separator tool. If you want good tips on pressing in the outer seal search my axle posts, you'll find what you need to know. I would recommend you rent an axle seal removing tool from your local auto store. It's a free rental if you return the tool and you can't go wrong there. Otherwise if you use a screwdriver or small chisel you take a chance on marring up the seal surface. The key to success is the retainers (position) and installing the seal correctly. If you mess up the outer seal installing don't reuse because it won't work, remove it and start with a new one. Permatex has this stuff called "super slick" use it when pressing on and of retainers and bearings. This is important because you can score the axle surface up if you don't use a lubricant and then you'll be into another axle shaft. I would replace the axle bearings if they had gear lube on them, otherwise they will eventually go out on you or get real loose due to they are sealed and not meant for outside lubrication. You could also check the axle shafts run out at your local machine shop while you have them removed and stripped down. Three thousandths run-out is about max on these. Rock auto has axle shafts with seals, bearings and retainers for around $200 each. Hope this helps!
Conk.
 

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You can search for my post under conk. There might be some helpful info that could be of value. Pressing on and off the bearings/retainers is not that bad if you have a press. Harbor freight has a 20 ton for $75.00 and is excellent for doing these. You can also purchase a bearing separator from them also for around $25.00 from what I remember. Don't quote me on these prices, but they're real close. With the bearing separator you'll need two 5/8" all thread (fine thread) rods you can buy from your local ace hardware or maybe hd or lowes has one cheaper. They have the harden steel ones if you choose, but not necessary. These rods will screw into the bearing splitter/separator tool. If you want good tips on pressing in the outer seal search my axle posts, you'll find what you need to know. I would recommend you rent an axle seal removing tool from your local auto store. It's a free rental if you return the tool and you can't go wrong there. Otherwise if you use a screwdriver or small chisel you take a chance on marring up the seal surface. The key to success is the retainers (position) and installing the seal correctly. If you mess up the outer seal installing don't reuse because it won't work, remove it and start with a new one. Permatex has this stuff called "super slick" use it when pressing on and of retainers and bearings. This is important because you can score the axle surface up if you don't use a lubricant and then you'll be into another axle shaft. I would replace the axle bearings if they had gear lube on them, otherwise they will eventually go out on you or get real loose due to they are sealed and not meant for outside lubrication. You could also check the axle shafts run out at your local machine shop while you have them removed and stripped down. Three thousandths run-out is about max on these. Rock auto has axle shafts with seals, bearings and retainers for around $200 each. Hope this helps!
Conk.
Conk - do you have a link for that axle shaft that already has seals, bearings, etc installed? I couldn't find it on RockAuto.
 

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uh... the seals are in the azle housing... yes? No seals in the axle assembly?
That's right. That should have said bearings, retainer rings, etc. Oops.

If Conk is correct and you can find axle shafts with everything pressed on than I'd definitely go that route. Especially at roughly $200 each side. I paid around $150 apiece for Moog bearings (which were stamped as Koyo).
 

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That's right. That should have said bearings, retainer rings, etc. Oops.

If Conk is correct and you can find axle shafts with everything pressed on than I'd definitely go that route. Especially at roughly $200 each side. I paid around $150 apiece for Moog bearings (which were stamped as Koyo).
No rebuilt axles left, it seems.

I did get lucky and found 2 moog bearings on ebay for $73 each. I was skeptical about seeing the koyo on them but now that you say yours had it, too... The boxes are old and beat up - look like NOS should look.

I'm waiting on the weather now. I'll get this damn truck going - if it KILLS me. Then I just might drive the [email protected]#$%^!! off the nearest cliff.

Serviced the trans yesterday while I waited for the bearings. What fun! 1 bolt in the back of the pan you have to use a box end wrench and go 1 tooth at a time, all the way out and back in. You can not get your fingers on it, at all. And they say these Japs are smart?

Frankly, I don't like what I'm seeing - a freakin' WHITE ELEPHANT.

Looked soooooo good - florida truck, 2x4, 135k... $7,000 and a plane ticket. I sure hope this stuff changes!

Has yours needed a lot of repairs?
 
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